1970 Toyota Land Cruiser

FJ40 SUV

6 - Cyl.

Manual

FJ4078005

Gasoline

This is a 01/70 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 that I have been restoring/refreshing for the past 2.5 years. It comes with the following: New Dune Beige Paint Newly rebuilt 2f motor (replaced all bearings, rings, honed, valve job, complete OEM gasket kit, new clutch, throw-out bearing, pressure plate, all new fluids) New wiring harness New Alternator New Gear reduction Starter New Pertronix electronic ignition conversion kit New Pertronix Flamethrower Coil New leather seats New rear leather seat covers New headlights, taillights, side marker lights OEM New emblems OEM Newly powder-coated wheels New bikini top (Besttop) New chrome fender strips New windshield bumper pads New windshield hooks and hood hooks Newly adjusted drum brakes/parking brake New dash pad cover New windshield glass New front seatbelts New glove-box plate New rear seatbelts New Billet Hood Trim New parking brake cable New Door Strikers New gas cap New Rear full floor-mat Newly painted Smittybuilt Roll-bar New Jerry Can New Jerry Can holder New color matched rear seats New chrome rear liftgate handle NEW OEM door weatherstripping Rynolined interior floor Rynolined under hood Rynolined underbody If you were doing the math in your head, that’s probably enough $$ in new parts to purchase a small island. For some reason I chose to spend the money on new parts for a Landcruiser… go figure. This 2F (taken from a 1975 FJ40) has less than 500 miles driven since the rebuild. It is attached to a 3-spd on the floor stock transmission and stock transfer case. The motor runs great and transmission shifts smoothly. The Pertronix kit got rid of the points, which really woke the engine up along with the Flamethrower coil. The carburetor was rebuilt. The 4wd works without issue, as does the parking brake which has a new cable. I was told the valves need adjusted after the rebuild. I am not sure how to do that so it has not been done. If I could find a mechanic locally who is familiar with these vehicles I would have it done – but thus far I haven’t located anyone I’d trust this vehicle with. As is the case with most 40’s, the wiring was a concern for me. So, I had a new EZ wiring harness installed, which means no electrical gremlins, no bad grounds, and no chasing electrical issues. The harness is clearly labeled every 12 inches with what each wire is, so any wiring changes would be a breeze. Anyone who has owned an older vehicle knows just how much of a nightmare electrical problems can be with PO hackjobs and such. No worries here. Some of the gauges still do not work on the stock gauge cluster (speedometer & temp gauge) but the oil pressure and gas gauge do work. Due to new wiring, this probably means the cluster needs gone through and cleaned up. Much easier than trying to trace down wiring issues. Every wire connection is additionally wrapped with 3M electrical tape. There is zero rust on this vehicle. Body was professionally restored removing all dents and dings without using bondo. I have taken a magnet to the entire body of the vehicle and have not found a single spot the magnet didn’t stick to. And no, there was no glue on my magnet! There are however a couple of dings in the doors (they arrived at a later date and thus were only painted and not given the Royal treatment). I just added new OEM weatherstripping to the doors, but the windows/hardtop would still need new weatherstripping. I have pictures of the entire process to show the body work from start to finish. I chose to have the vehicle repainted with Toyota Dune Beige. In some of the pictures I have noticed that the doors seem to be a little darker than the body. I looked in person, and don’t notice a difference. I also had my neighbors look at it and they didn’t notice a difference. The doors were painted at a later date, but the paint used came from the same batch. I asked my bodyguy and he didn’t notice a difference. There was a cut out in the dash for 3 Autometer gauges (I don’t know what it is with people and older vehicles who like to cut holes in things). I stopped using these gauges when the new harness was installed, so they are no longer hooked up. I left the 3 holes so someone could add other gauges if they chose. This is why the gear shifter has been added to the center of the dash. It can be removed if you choose to new gauges. After having the vehicle painted, I had the interior Rynolined as well as underneath the hood. The underbody had previously been Rynolined. To finish off the cosmetics, I had the wheels powder-coated white and then replaced every light/emblem/hook/bump-stop/cap on the entire exterior. I also replaced all the hooks, chrome strips etc so as not to take away from the newly finished exterior. These lights/emblems/hooks etc alone made it close to the thousand dollar mark. Anything that was available as an OEM part was purchased that way. I only went aftermarket when I had no other choice (aside from carb/alternator/starter.) While I wanted to keep the vehicle as stock/pure as possible, I couldn’t justify putting uncomfortable bench seats back in. So, I purchased leather seats from an Acura RSX. They are extremely comfortable. They are power seats with Airbags, so if one were inclined they could wire these in to work. How you would do such a thing I have no idea, but I’m sure most readers here are smarter than I am when it comes to such things. The seats are not currently wired for power. So as the rear jump-seats didn’t feel left out, I had the frames painted, new pads, and the covers made in a color similar to the front seats. I also had the rollbar painted. The top was not in the best of shape, so I had it repaired. It is not perfect, but it does its job without issues. I had to add some seam sealer for certain areas to replace what came from the factory. Due to a mix up with my painter (he’s a little old and his hearing isn’t what it used to be), the exterior of the upper sides were painted white. When I told him the roof was supposed to be painted white, he took that to mean everything touching the roof… However, he did manage to get the interior of the upper sides painted dune beige. So, a synopsis of this is the interior sides are painted dune beige but the exterior sides are painted white. The vehicle will come with the hard top, as well as a Besttop bikini top with soft half doors. The windshield frame had damage so I replaced it with another windshield frame from a 76. This moved the position of the wiper motor and wiper blades from the top of the windshield to the bottom. I think it looks much better there. I spent many hours trying to work out the correct wiring for the wiper motor, and was dismayed when I got it all back together and the wipers were not working. The switch has been tested as good, so the wiring may be incorrect. When I purchased the vehicle, there was no heater attached. I purchased the heater box, but that’s as far as I got. Being that this was more of a summer driver for me, I didn’t spend too much time trying to gather the parts other than the box for aesthetic reasons. The only other issue I know of currently is that there seems to be some sort of bracket missing from the steering column. The steering wheel moves up/down an inch or two. The steering is fine, but I just wanted to mention this in an effort to be as honest as possible. I have compiled thousands of dollars worth of receipts in a nice little black folder. These are all available and will come with the sale of the vehicle. You can even keep the little black folder… I have tried to save every receipt from Day 1 since this rebuild began, but there may be a couple missing. I would be scared to figure out how much I have spent on new parts for this 40... The best part – if you get any grief from the wife you can show her the folder and tell her how great of a deal you got because the parts alone in receipts cost me more than you paid for the whole rig. I am ready to move on to something different so unfortunately this beautiful example of a 1970FJ40 has to go. For trades, I would be interested in a small island. Finally, please remember that while this FJ40 has gone through an extensive restoration, it is still an older vehicle and thus will have its small share of issues (missing or broken bolts, paint chips etc). I am not a mechanic, nor have I played one on TV, so what I am telling you are to the best of my knowledge. If you want something you can get in and drive without any issues (aside from those mentioned above) then this is the vehicle for you. If you are looking for something to bring to car shows – this probably wouldn’t work for you. I hear you can pick up a show worthy FJ40 from TLC for around $100,000… I have perfect feedback on eBay for a reason. Bid with confidence. I recently sold my other FJ40 on here (please see feedback there.) If you have any questions or need other pictures or videos, please do not hesitate to ask. I can be reached at (nine-one-eight)-810-9987 if you would prefer to call. If you need help with shipping, I will do whatever I can to help. There is no lien on this vehicle and it has a clear Oklahoma title. On Aug-09-11 at 15:33:28 PDT, seller added the following information:To answer some questions I have received and supply some additional pictures. The seat brackets are stock The toolbox under drivers seat is stock The gas tank is stock I do not have the factory front seats One of the hubs look like it was replaced by a newer hub. They are both Warn hubs. If I have missed anyone's questions, please let me know. As requested, here are some interior, underneath and hub pictures. On Aug-10-11 at 18:54:12 PDT, seller added the following information:Just to clarify, as it seems my ramblings have confused a lot of people. Here is a picture that explains what I meant by the 3 holes in the dash where the gauges were. I used a gear shift "plate" to cover the holes so you can't see them. The red arrows point to the plate, which is covering the fore mentioned 3 holes. I hope this better explains it. Sorry for the confusion.