Detail Info for: MG : MGB Roadster 1970 MGB

Transaction Info
Sold On:
05/29/2011
Price:
$ 7850.00
Condition:
Mileage:
999999
Location:
Jacksonville, FL, 32259
Seller Type:
Private seller
Vehicle Specification
Year Make Model:
1970 MG MGB
Submodel Body Type:
Roadster Convertible
Engine:
4 - Cyl.
Transmission:
Manual
VIN:
GHN5UA192819G
Vehicle Title:
Clear
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:
Vehicle Detail
Thanks you for looking at my 1970 MGB. She was built in December 1969. I don’t know the full history but I have owned her since 2006. I thoroughly enjoy driving her which I do on a weekly basis unless it’s too hot or cold. Fortunately, my driving season here in North Florida is quite long. I am caught in a quandary in that I don’t want to sell her but with 4 kids starting to head to college, I find myself with less time to devote to her. I find MGBs to be quite reliable provided you pay attention to them. Ignore them, and they become a problem. This one is a very nice 41 year old British roadster. She is neither a 100 point show car nor a garage and trailer queen. As I said I drive her weekly. I can honestly say she has NEVER broken down, stalled or otherwise left me stranded. Generally my trips are 2 to 30 miles a time. I want her to go to a good home. I will be as honest about her condition as I can. EXTERIOR She is British Racing Green. The paint isn’t bad but there are swirl marks after all the years. It is possible to wax her down to a nice shine however. There are a few dings here and there. The worst two are on the hood where a bicycle hand brake may have made contact. My wife denies it though! Grrrrr! I am not aware of any rust on this care. The paint is NOT bubbling. Chrome work is about the same as the paint. The bumper is nice and shiny but if you are looking at details you will notice some of the metal work has lost its original shine. After 41 years though, it still looks very nice and always get compliments. The wire wheels are truly gorgeous and in my opinion one of the prettiest points of this car. The tires are in excellent condition. The top is in fair condition due to a couple of snaps missing on the interior. They may be replaceable but I haven’t looked into it. The lift the dot snaps are all there but given I have only used the top about 4 times in 6 years, they are a literal stretch to get on. Basically, there isn’t much need for the top here in Florida unless I am washing the car. I don’t have a tonneau or the bars. Wish I did… they would be more useful to me. INTERIOR As you can see in the pictures the color scheme is unique and looks very nice. The seats are in great shape. I replaced the bottom cushions and rubber webbing about three years ago. The carpet is in very good condition. If you lift the front sections… surprise, surprise the floor is not rusted. The only down side on the carpet is the piece that goes over the battery cover. The snaps are missing on that piece. The moto lita steering wheel is beautiful and delight to hold. The dash is good. Perhaps a little warping here and there but not obvious. Remember, it’s 41 years old. The bezels look fine. I replaced several of them a few years back. Regarding the gauges… Fuel Gauge: It works. When I fill her up, the gauge won’t go completely to the top. I have never run below the half full mark. I haven’t run out of gas either. Generally I put 4 to 5 gallons in between the levels I maintain. Tachometer: It works. Nothing to add here. Oil Pressure: It works. A note here… she idles at a little under 50 psi hot. Under speed, she runs at 55 psi or so when hot. I believe the lower specification is 50 psi running when hot. Speedo: She always reads low and sticks briefly when starting. This hasn’t been a big deal to me so I haven’t done any investigations in this area. Temperature: It works. This is the only MGB I know that won’t run hot. I have used an IR gauge on the block so I believe the gauge. When running on a hot day she stays right at the N mark. If you let her idle for a while on a hot day she will go a little above the N but I have NEVER seen her overheat. The switches all work. Currently the temperature control is disconnected. I just need a cable. I don’t need a heater here. SUSPENSION I pulled the steering rack out about four years ago and cleaned it out when I noticed the boots were torn. I found it to be in great shape. I lubed it up, put on fresh boots and hooked her all back up again. I completely rebuilt the front end last winter. All soft components were replaced as were the front springs and dampeners. Doing the work my self saved a lot of money but it still cost about $1400 to do. She handles very well as a result. Just a note, W and G Motorwerks did the detail such as pressing the bushings and cleaning up the a-arms. He is well worth the investment. I plan to do the back end this winter if I don’t sell her. When I do, I will replace the dampeners, bushings, u-bolts, straps and will take a look at the leaf springs. I am not trying to correct any particular issue but I would like the front and rear to be in the same overall condition. I don’t have any throttle steer. DRIVE TRAIN Overall I believe the motor to be in good shape. I haven’t done a compression check or I would let you know the results. As I mentioned, the oil pressure runs on the low side of specification which I assume to be real and possibly indicating some of the bearings are beginning show signs of wear. I am not suggesting a problem here just what I know to be the facts. If I keep her, I will likely overhaul the motor in 2 years or so as I don’t see an immediate need to do so now. Recently, I have noticed pinging under acceleration. The distributer was rebuilt a few years back by Advanced Distributors. They did a very fine job. I believe my timing is out of wack but I haven’t had time to look into it. The carburetors were rebuilt about 4 years ago. I don’t remember who did them but all the shafts are nice and tight. Whoever buys the car I hope will keep the SUs. I may start an argument but I think they look so much nicer than anything else on this engine. I have developed a very slow coolant leak. I thought it was the drain valve so I replaced it. The new valve was a sieve! I currently I have it plugged but there is still a very slow drip. I really mean slow! I tinker around with it once a month and make sure the coolant level stays correct. All the hoses and clamps are essentially new. I’ll keep at it until I sell her. The transmission is in good shape. No strange noises. Sometimes there is a little sticking going into fourth gear but I regard it as a mild annoyance. The transmission has never popped out of gear on me. The overdrive works as it should. The only other thing about the drive train that needs attention is the u-joints need to be replaced. Not a big deal. DRIVING This is what it is all about. I enjoy driving her on several of the two lane roads near my home. She drives very well and always brings compliments where I park her. I wouldn’t bring her to Amelia Island Concourse D’elegance, but I would be very proud to bring her to any local meet. As I said, this is a very nice driver, not a show car. After typing this up I find it harder to let her go. She is very nice car. I set the reserve at a price I feel is fair and for what I will part with her. Please do not ask me to disclose the reserve because I won’t. I ask the winning bidder to provide a non-refundable $500 deposit within 24 hours of winning. If you don’t, I will cancel the deal. The full purchase price is due within 7 days of closing by cashier’s check. I will reciprocate by sending the title UPS within 24 hours if not less. The buyer must arrange shipping. I will take her to points close by to ease loading but you must make the arrangements. You may arrange pick up immediately after I notify you your cashier’s check is deposited and cleared. I have done my best to be 100% up front regarding the good and the not so good. The sale is final. I also retain the right to end the auction pre-maturely. I do not offer a warranty or a return. I don’t think you will want to return her anyway! Thank you again for looking. On May-27-11 at 18:10:46 PDT, seller added the following information: I lowered my reserve and and added a buy it now price. I have no plans to lower again. The buy it now is slightly above the reserve. Thanks you for looking at my 1970 MGB. She was built in December 1969. I don’t know the full history but I have owned her since 2006. I thoroughly enjoy driving her which I do on a weekly basis unless it’s too hot or cold. Fortunately, my driving season here in North Florida is quite long. I am caught in a quandary in that I don’t want to sell her but with 4 kids starting to head to college, I find myself with less time to devote to her. I find MGBs to be quite reliable provided you pay attention to them. Ignore them, and they become a problem.This one is a very nice 41 year old British roadster. She is neither a 100 point show car nor a garage and trailer queen. As I said I drive her weekly. I can honestly say she has NEVER broken down, stalled or otherwise left me stranded. Generally my trips are 2 to 30 miles a time. I want her to go to a good home. I will be as honest about her condition as I can.EXTERIORShe is British Racing Green. The paint isn’t bad but there are swirl marks after all the years. It is possible to wax her down to a nice shine however. There are a few dings here and there. The worst two are on the hood where a bicycle hand brake may have made contact. My wife denies it though! Grrrrr!I am not aware of any rust on this care. The paint is NOT bubbling.Chrome work is about the same as the paint. The bumper is nice and shiny but if you are looking at details you will notice some of the metal work has lost its original shine. After 41 years though, it still looks very nice and always get compliments.The wire wheels are truly gorgeous and in my opinion one of the prettiest points of this car.The tires are in excellent condition.The top is in fair condition due to a couple of snaps missing on the interior. They may be replaceable but I haven’t looked into it. The lift the dot snaps are all there but given I have only used the top about 4 times in 6 years, they are a literal stretch to get on. Basically, there isn’t much need for the top here in Florida unless I am washing the car. I don’t have a tonneau or the bars. Wish I did… they would be more useful to me.INTERIORAs you can see in the pictures the color scheme is unique and looks very nice. The seats are in great shape. I replaced the bottom cushions and rubber webbing about three years ago. The carpet is in very good condition. If you lift the front sections… surprise, surprise the floor is not rusted. The only down side on the carpet is the piece that goes over the battery cover. The snaps are missing on that piece. The moto lita steering wheel is beautiful and delight to hold.The dash is good. Perhaps a little warping here and there but not obvious. Remember, it’s 41 years old. The bezels look fine. I replaced several of them a few years back.Regarding the gauges…Fuel Gauge: It works. When I fill her up, the gauge won’t go completely to the top. I have never run below the half full mark. I haven’t run out of gas either. Generally I put 4 to 5 gallons in between the levels I maintain.Tachometer: It works. Nothing to add here.Oil Pressure: It works. A note here… she idles at a little under 50 psi hot. Under speed, she runs at 55 psi or so when hot. I believe the lower specification is 50 psi running when hot. Speedo: She always reads low and sticks briefly when starting. This hasn’t been a big deal to me so I haven’t done any investigations in this area.Temperature: It works. This is the only MGB I know that won’t run hot. I have used an IR gauge on the block so I believe the gauge. When running on a hot day she stays right at the N mark. If you let her idle for a while on a hot day she will go a little above the N but I have NEVER seen her overheat.The switches all work. Currently the temperature control is disconnected. I just need a cable. I don’t need a heater here.SUSPENSIONI pulled the steering rack out about four years ago and cleaned it out when I noticed the boots were torn. I found it to be in great shape. I lubed it up, put on fresh boots and hooked her all back up again.I completely rebuilt the front end last winter. All soft components were replaced as were the front springs and dampeners. Doing the work my self saved a lot of money but it still cost about $1400 to do. She handles very well as a result. Just a note, W and G Motorwerks did the detail such as pressing the bushings and cleaning up the a-arms. He is well worth the investment.I plan to do the back end this winter if I don’t sell her. When I do, I will replace the dampeners, bushings, u-bolts, straps and will take a look at the leaf springs. I am not trying to correct any particular issue but I would like the front and rear to be in the same overall condition. I don’t have any throttle steer.DRIVE TRAINOverall I believe the motor to be in good shape. I haven’t done a compression check or I would let you know the results. As I mentioned, the oil pressure runs on the low side of specification which I assume to be real and possibly indicating some of the bearings are beginning show signs of wear. I am not suggesting a problem here just what I know to be the facts. If I keep her, I will likely overhaul the motor in 2 years or so as I don’t see an immediate need to do so now.Recently, I have noticed pinging under acceleration. The distributer was rebuilt a few years back by Advanced Distributors. They did a very fine job. I believe my timing is out of wack but I haven’t had time to look into it.The carburetors were rebuilt about 4 years ago. I don’t remember who did them but all the shafts are nice and tight. Whoever buys the car I hope will keep the SUs. I may start an argument but I think they look so much nicer than anything else on this engine.I have developed a very slow coolant leak. I thought it was the drain valve so I replaced it. The new valve was a sieve! I currently I have it plugged but there is still a very slow drip. I really mean slow! I tinker around with it once a month and make sure the coolant level stays correct. All the hoses and clamps are essentially new. I’ll keep at it until I sell her.The transmission is in good shape. No strange noises. Sometimes there is a little sticking going into fourth gear but I regard it as a mild annoyance. The transmission has never popped out of gear on me. The overdrive works as it should.The only other thing about the drive train that needs attention is the u-joints need to be replaced. Not a big deal.DRIVINGThis is what it is all about.I enjoy driving her on several of the two lane roads near my home. She drives very well and always brings compliments where I park her. I wouldn’t bring her to Amelia Island Concourse D’elegance, but I would be very proud to bring her to any local meet. As I said, this is a very nice driver, not a show car.After typing this up I find it harder to let her go. She is very nice car. I set the reserve at a price I feel is fair and for what I will part with her. Please do not ask me to disclose the reserve because I won’t.I ask the winning bidder to provide a non-refundable $500 deposit within 24 hours of winning. If you don’t, I will cancel the deal. The full purchase price is due within 7 days of closing by cashier’s check. I will reciprocate by sending the title UPS within 24 hours if not less. The buyer must arrange shipping. I will take her to points close by to ease loading but you must make the arrangements. You may arrange pick up immediately after I notify you your cashier’s check is deposited and cleared. I have done my best to be 100% up front regarding the good and the not so good. The sale is final. I also retain the right to end the auction pre-maturely. I do not offer a warranty or a return. I don’t think you will want to return her anyway! Thank you again for looking.