1967 Ford F-100

Standard Cab Pickup

5.0 302

C-6 Automatic

F10ANB13831

Clear

Gasoline

Below is the link to my 1967 build. I did not paint this truck. I bought this truck in March as a summer cruiser for beach runs and car shows. The truck was from Florida and when it arrived I realized that it wasn't what the previous owner promised. The wiring was a mess. The carb, Trans and exhaust were no good. It needed serious suspension work due to it being lowered incorrectly. The frame was straight and rust free so I decided to convert it to a fully independent suspension and 4 wheel disc brake setup. Here is what I did: Pulled the front clip, motor and transmission. Sourced a 2009 Crown Vic P71 front suspension and a 1995 Lincoln LSC rear suspension. Complete new upper and lower control arms, strut assembly etc up front. On the rear it was professionally disassembled. The carrier was professionally powdercaoted as were the upper control arms and several other parts. Converted the rear to springs and shocks, all new. The lower control arms, differential, axles, hubs and knuckles were painted with por-15 Silver. Powdercoated the front and rear sway bars and installed with new links and bushings. There are new hubs and new brake calipers, rotors and pads front and rear. I replaced the Master cylinder with a Wilwood 7/8" and it stops great with manual brakes. After conversion a complete professional front and rear alignment were performed. This truck rides like new and handles like a modern sports car. It's a fun truck to drive. For the drive train I had the C-6 professionally rebuilt. The motor is a 1991 Ford 5.0 that was in the truck when I bought it. Motor compression was 150 to all cylinders so I replaced the timing chain and gears, new freeze plugs, water pump, por-15 paint (T-Bird Red). HEI distributor. New power steering pump, Electronic Fuel Pump (Carter), New plugs, Intake manifold (Edelbrock 289) New Quickfuel 450CFM carburetor. Complete new headers, Magnaflow 40's and pipes. Ford Racing Air cleaner and valve covers. New dual electric fan Radiator, hoses and thermostat with a Jack Daniels overflow. I went with a Fan elimination setup using serpentine pulleys and March bracket. Installed a Lokar oil dip stick. While the motor was out I lifted the body to install all new urethane body bushings, stripped and painted the frame with por-15 and replaced a missing cross-member for the trans(They were often cut out to service the trans). Next I relocated the fuel tank for safety from the cab to behind the rear axle. It is a brand new 1968 mustang 16 gallon tank and sending unit. The fuel filler is located behind the license plate in the rear bumper. All fuel lines, transmission lines and brake lines are new. The wiring was a mess so I installed a complete harness from Kwik-Wire with 14 circuits. All wires were loomed and secured. Everything works perfect. I also installed a new wiper motor, switch, reservoir and washer pump, door light switches, Ignition switch, Headlight switch, restored the heater box and motor. Installed LED bulbs in the dash. I located a stock radio but it is not hooked up yet. ($200 because it is a one year only model and they are extremely rare). New glove box. The Body has a 10 foot paint job but it's very presentable. I photographed the paint cracks and imperfections, but understand that this is a driver. A good paint job would make this a $30,000 truck. I painted the hood stripe, grille and the engine bay with decent quality lacquer. I replaced the rear bumper and painted both with bed liner. I had the Headlight bezels powdercoated. I installed a new Column harness/blinker switch and Grant Steering Wheel. The rims and tires are straight off a Crown Vic cop car. They are in used condition but actually look pretty decent on the truck. They were balanced. Here are the items that are not great. The doors have to be shut pretty hard because the weather stripping is thick. It was new when I got the truck and I'm not sure if it is correct. But it seals tight and there are virtually no squeaks or rattles. The tailgate is difficult to open and may come loose while being lowered if not held in place on the hinge. Once the gate is lowered it stays in place. The previous owner had the tailgate latch relocated inside the gate when it was "Flushed" and the handle probably needs tweaking or lubrication. These items and the paint issues are the only problems with the truck but I doubt you will be hauling anything in the bed. If you want a reliable classic truck that looks bad ass and drives like new, I think you'll be happy. She won't set any speed records but she gets out of her own way and will out handle any old F100. Add a decent paint job and you'll be in the money. These old F100s are taking off in price. More Photos on photobucket. Google photobucket fencelizard f100 since Ebay won't let me embed a link anymore. Thanks for looking.