1993 Mazda RX-7

Coupe

ROTARY

JM1FD331XP0204240

Clear

VEHICLE FOR SALE AS-IS. VEHICLE IS NOT RUNNING BUT ALL PARTS ARE IN PLACE FOR DO IT YOURSELFER OR SHOP. SHIPPING NOT AVAILABLE. You would need to tow this and also room for a lot of parts collected over 22 years. I bought this RX7 as a second owner in 1995 and have had this for 22 years now. Used to be active on the RX7 forum from 1998 until 2014. I want to move on as my kids are older and I have no more time to tinker with this. Clean titleRepainted in 2004 by PFS recommended paintshop (paid $4000)Ohlins suspension - less than 3000 miles (paid $2.5K?)Japanese Short 5speed with 35KLow mileage stock twinsFluidyne radiator with Evans coolant (extra 3 fresh 3 gallons)M2 intercooler and M2 airboxNo ACSparco Seat with Custom bracket to factory sliderMOMO Volante steering wheel with hub adapter (uninstalled)Sway bar support (can't remember who but it was the original sway bar support in 1998)New PPF in 2010Aquamist water injection as well as a new water injection kit (Snow Performance Boost Cooler - unopened)Brandnew unopened OEM 4x850 injectorsBrandnew supra pump (unopened) with another OEM supra pump installed in the car.Clutch is ACT Street with brand new clutch plateBM Shortshifter.Motor in car has 105+ psi compression from allrotor 93Extra motor built by Howard Coleman but frozen due to gelling of Crisco assembly lube (see story below)Original hood as well as vented hoodHID Morimoto conversionTwin oil cooler conversionExtra airpumpExtra Stock TwinControl arms front are new (less than 10K)Control arms rear are low mileageOEM Catalytic Converter (less than 1000 miles! and not installed)Lots of parts collected over the yearsOZ Mitos wheels (17x10 rear and 17x8 front)99 front rotors and calipers Here is the problem: I have reconnected the Apexi PFC but I am not getting the dash light. Even though I have remove and reinstall engines twice (1998 and 2010) before, I have no patience left to figure this out. MY STORY: Purchased in 1995 with 35K. Motor replaced by Mazda in 1997 due to coolant seal failure (probably from the single track day that year). Motor replaced by myself in 1998 due to coolant seals (one track day) Motor replaced in 2010 by myself (detonation due to California gas). Switched to Evans coolant and never had over heating or coolant seal problem again. Here is where it gets interesting. In 2010, I lost an apex seal due to the low quality gas we have here in California. I had Howard Coleman (coleman precision rotaries dot com)built me another motor with lots of parts at a cost of $3600 in 2010. While waiting for the motor to be built in 2010, I picked up a used ported motor from a local member on the forum thinking it would only last a year (about 5K per year for me). I also installed a water injection system (Aquamist). Surprise, surprise, that motor kept on running until 2014 when a ripped hose to the waste gate allowed overboost to 21 psi (on stock turbos) and cracked an apex seal. Now the motor from Howard had sat around from 2011 (with plenty of oil). I hand cranked it every six months from 2011 to 2013. It turned out that Howard used Crisco grease to assemble the motor. Crisco turned to a rubber gel over time and I could barely turn the motor by hand in 2014. Howard offered to redo the motor (I have email to this from Howard). In the meantime, I picked up another reman motor from allrotor93 with 105+ compression all around (actually more like 110 psi). This was around late 2014. Then my job changed and I had no more time, especially with my 3 kids getting involved in more sports. So this sat around from June 2014 to now. It took me an hour here and an hour there from 2015 - 2017 for me to put the allrotor93 motor in place (the Howard motor is still sitting). Connected the PFC but dash light is not showing or the mileage display. Note that this is not my first time to remove and replace a motor (done it twice before) so I must be missing a ground or a connection somewhere. Then the State of Kalifornia sent me a letter in 2017 stating that if I want to re-register my car, I will need to go to their facility (not a private Test facility) for emission testing. This was the last straw for me. The car has always passed emission testing (as long as the shop can ignore the visual inspection) but now the test requirements are much much harsher. All the parts here you can strip and sell for $6000 and still have a good body or roller to sell for $5000. If you are good with the car, you can get it running (not in California) for street use or even track use. PRICE IS FIRM.