1974 Suzuki GT380

GT38057712

Clear

Up for sale is my 1974 Suzuki GT380 Café Racer. This bike started out as a bone stock 74 GT380 and has undergone a minor facelift. The engine had 15k miles on it when I began the tear-down. Compression was on the high end of spec for all 3 cylinders before I began the tear-down and the engine runs strong, clean (as clean as 2-smokes can) with no leaks anywhere. I’ve put around 20 miles on the bike since I finished it and now it’s ready for sale. I never planned to keep it after I was done with the build as my 2 sons are getting old enough now that we want a Jeep CJ7 (yes, I would consider possible trades!). Here is the list of what I’ve done to the bike: Body/Rolling Assembly New tires and tubes Original spokes, nipples and rims. Rims polished up really nicely but are still 40 years old, so they are not perfect New wheel bearings front and rear Original front brake caliper, rebuilt and new brake pads SS front brake line Brand new (modern) master cylinder OEM forks, rebuilt with new seals. Shaved down to remove the fender and 2nd brake caliper mounts. Forks are painted and clear coated. Top triple tree clamp shaved down to remove the gauge mounts. Café style clip-on handlebars. Original tank, dished/domed on the sides. Inside of the tank has been coated/sealed with Red Kote tank sealant. Fiberglass seat pan, heavily modified/smoothed for proper fit and look. Seat pad is custom made and finished in black leather Paint is House of Kolor. Kandy Brandywine over Galaxy Gray. 2 part Urethane clear coat to finish the job. The color combo is awesome and the striping came out great. The colors really pop in the sun and there is a lot of flake. *There are 2 tiny chips in the paint right where the clip-on bar mounts would come in contact with the tank. (picture right where the forks would touch the tank) You see, I’m an idiot and this was my first set of clip-ons (meaning UNDER the top tree and not above it like I’m used to), so both sides were slightly dinged by the bar-mounts before I adjusted them and filed away a bit of aluminum from the bar mounts for proper clearance. I’ve done my best to capture the paint imperfections in the pictures. Where the dings sit, they aren’t very noticeable with the triple tree and bars kind of taking over that space. New drive chain Custom oil tank with visible oil gauge. Brand new petcock Custom aluminum rear-sets made by Old School Speed. They mount directly to the original factory passenger peg location and are actually pretty comfortable. Original throttle with jack-hammer style grips Frame has been de-tabbed and smoothed wherever possible for a cleaner, lighter look. Additional bracing added where original tubing was cut away for the seat pan. Center-stand removed for clearance for the exhaust Brand new rear shocks. Carbs/Exhaust Carbs fully rebuilt with all new seals, jets/needles Ivan’s Performance Carb Kit used to rebuild the carbs. I went 1 size up on the jets to compensate for the exhaust and intake. Seems to be the right mixture and no issues. UNI double-foam air filters JEMCO 3 into 3 exhaust. Super lightweight and sound amazing! These are raw steel and have been wire-wheeled then scotch-brite pad finished. Electrical I kept very little of the original wiring as it was 40 years old and I prefer to strip out as much as possible when I build a bike. The battery and fuse block are mounted/hidden under the seat/tail. 2 toggle switches are mounted up under the seat (one for HI/OFF/LOW headlight, the other as a master kill for the battery). The stock handlebar ON/OFF switch allows power to the coils. There are no keys for the bike, just the 2 switches to allow power for it to start/run) LED headlight, disassembled, stripped to bare metal and painted gloss black, then clear coated. Brand new Regulator/Rectifier combo Original coils (Ohm specs were well within tolerance) New NGK plug caps/boots (zero resistance) New NGK plugs (BPR—I don’t recall which model—the correct resistor plugs for the GT380 with zero resistance NGK caps, these are the fine-wire Iridium plugs if that helps) Brand new 12v, 5Ah sealed battery. Modern automotive style fuse block wired in with modern blade-style fuses. LED taillight strip. The brake light is ONLY wired to the front brake switch. I never ran another switch for the rear brake pedal. Not a big deal to do and keep it very clean looking if you would like to add it. I believe that covers everything that I can think of. Please have a look at the pictures at let me know if you have any questions or need more information. Bike is sold as-is with no warranty. Buyer is responsible for pickup or shipping arrangements. CLEAN & CLEAR TITLE WITH THE BIKE Thanks for bidding