1969 Pontiac Grand Prix

Model J

400

Automatic

276579P279472

Clear

EXTERIOR: Bondo on quarters and doors. Floors, rockers, trunk floors, roof, tulip panels, etc are all really solid. I haven't gotten it on a lift, but the underside looks great from what I can see by getting under it on my back. I think the biggest problem with the car is just bad amateur bodywork and paint that's probably 20 years old. Little paint chips everywhere which I'm going to touch up. There is bondo popping/cracking and an area over the passenger side wheel well that is all metal but has several small holes where it's through. The vinyl top is brand new. In the pic you'll see a missing corner piece of v-top trim which I have and will install. The chrome sucks. The bumpers are so dull. The rocker moldings have some screws in them that aren't factory. Headlight bezels are just as dull but I think I have a nice set to put on it. One tail light lens is cracked but I have a nice one for that as well. Wheel opening trim looked fine and is all there. V-top stainless and glass trim looked fine. Glass is nice. Has a set of 15" Rally IIs which look good. They all have the black PMD centers which I love. You'll notice the pass rear wheel has a modern center cap but the 4th PMD is on the spare. BFGs all the way around. Tread looks like maybe 80/90% or better. INTERIOR: Crack in the dash in the center near windshield. Not horrible and high on the dash so it's not in your face. I have an extra dash I can include if you wanted to swap them out. Nice, tight tilt steering wheel. Cracks in the driver side door pull and the door panel carpet is bad near the front where your foot rests. Passenger door panel is nice. Console has a chip in it near corner of glove box door but door lid is really nice. Headliner, visors, a-pillars, rear seat, package tray, carpet all are nice driver quality. Bucket seats don't look too bad but driver side bucket must have broken springs. It sags a lot. I'd swap out the passenger side for the driver as it's nicer and more comfortable. Bottoms have separating seams but aren't shredded but you can see all that in the pics. Pass rear window seems to be binding and I don't want to force it. Driver side rear goes down about 75% and starts to bind as well. I don't want to muscle it down and damage anything. Blower for heat/defrost doesn't work--at least I played with the sliders and didn't hear a blower coming on but the car was running. Lights, signals, temp oil pressure gauges work. Fuel gauge is pegged at full but I don't think it is. Maybe a ground wire to sending unit? MECHANICALLY: It runs great. Great oil pressure. No knocks, ticks, smoke...nothing. Prior owner said the carb bogs at wide open throttle. I did not experience that. I don't flog it but have not experienced the bog. Before the guy I bought it from purchased it for himself, the owner before him said that the original 400 seemed "sluggish" so he swapped it out for this motor which I'm told is from a 74 or 76 Trans Am. I can't confirm any of that. I actually have not looked up the code on the front of the block yet but that won't do any good without a date anyway which is tougher to see. Whatever is in there is strong and sounds great and has no issues. 4bbl Rochester. HEI. Starts up every time with a few pumps. There was rubber all over the passenger side quarter so burnouts are apparently not a problem. :-) I have my dual snorkle air cleaner on it in the pics but that does not come with the car. I want to sandblast and paint the single snorkle air cleaner that goes with the car. Trans shifts fine. Fluid super clean. Rides nicely. Drives, stops and steers nicely. Dual exhaust sounds tough but not obnoxious or too loud. I have a of couple of videos of it running 4 or 5 minutes long. I have to upload them to YouTube and should be able to send links via email. As I'm typing this and thinking of everything, I don't remember trying the wipers. Overall I would rate this as a daily driver GP with really old, bad bodywork and paint. To give you some sense of what I'd do if it were mine...I'd block it out, fix the popping and paint it in satin black like my 70 GP and Scotchbrite the bumpers to give it a uniform brushed finish and just drive it. It looks great (Think Murder Nova) and is worry/trouble free. I wouldn't do anything else to it. This is a cheap and reliable way to get into an old muscle car that can be driven while you bring it up to snuff. This is also a muscle car starting at $3900 with no reserve with bondo in the doors and quarters. This is not a $15k restored car. I'm a 69-70 GP nut and have restored many. This was a nice, affordable one I bought a few months ago for myself but a gold 69 GP I used to own came up for sale out of state and I'm trying to buy it back. Shipping is the buyer's responsibility. Can it be driven home long distances? I feel it can but that is not a responsibility I'm willing to be on the hook for. It's 50 years old. I DON'T MIND IF SOMEBODY WANTED TO PAY VIA PAYPAL, BUT THE PAYPAL FEES WILL BE PAID BY THE BUYER OR IT'S NOT GOING ANYWHERE. Title will be released and transport arrangements can be made when GP is paid in full. $500 non-refundable deposit due within 24 hours of auction's close. Thanks for looking.