2006 Subaru Legacy

GT Limited Sedan

2.5L 2458CC H4 GAS DOHC Turbocharged

Manual

4S3BL676X66211581

Clear

GAS

Factory: Legacy GT Limited Turbo AWD Black Mica Color Moonroof, pops up in back/vent, goes halfway, full back to open. Driver's side auto down window Power mirrors Metal Subaru branded front door sills. Black Leather, carpet, all 4 original floormats REQUIRES: Premium Fuel (91 octane+) Factory added: Chrome accented side trim (as seen on Spec.B) Short Throw Shifter Extra Alarm module  STI Pedals (clutch, brake, accelerator) stainless with red rubber accents Aftermarket: Boost gauge - left of dash near A pillar Momo Shifter Blowoff Valve "PSSSSSHHH!" with each shift @ high RPM.  I still have original valve so you can remove if you wish.  I added it before I quite knew what I was doing since Subaru engine is meant to recycle not release excess. Upgraded suspension (Bilstein gas struts, H&R springs) leaves it sitting slightly lower 1.5" front, 2" rear. Stainless steel brake lines - slotted / pitted rotors with heavy duty pads This is an entirely rebuilt engine, stage two, AVO 350 Ball-Bearing turbo and AVO intercooler replace the stock. New heavy duty racing clutch, transmission rebuild Larger fuel pump, larger water pump 17" Konig rims, includes original 17" rims with Bridgestone Blizzaks (winter tires) Rear stability bar Professionally tuned to 12.5psi of boost, turbo can do much more with additional adjustment. Includes ODBC to USB port, Sony Vaio Laptop for ECU tuning and logging & self-contained ODBC code reader Blemishes: Small dent above front passenger side handle where I pushed the door shut while the seatbelt was caught in the door. (in pictures, not clearly visible) Large (golf ball sized) indent near back of hood from flying bushing on highway, paint chipped, filled in a bit with touch up paint. (in pictures, visible) Known Issues Battery was just replaced with higher capacity "Gold" from Autozone.  It still loses charge when just sitting for 2 weeks+ After 7 gallons of fuel is spent, fuel pressure in tank does not match estimated pressure vs fuel consumption in computer.  This throws the check engine light.  Adjustment was never made when tune was done for bigger injectors.  Computer believes less fuel is being used then is going out through the bigger injectors plus larger fuel pump, calculations are off, triggers issue.  Options: adjust for injector fuel usage, disable calculation check against fuel pressure. - I am including both the ODBC interface port (retail $250) w/ USB cable and laptop (it's a  Sony Vaio lighweight 1.3ghz w/ 2g of memory, the car has been it's only purpose) in this sale.  The laptop uses ROMRaider (open source) to log and modify ECU values. Check out the link below for spreadsheet of actual information logged just recently - I am also including a ODBC reader to easily reset the check engine light (retail $60.00) without having to flash the ECU with the laptop This is a racecar in a box ready to go. If you ever wanted to get into tuning, this is everything you need to do it.  It's incredibly fast, but there is much to be tuned, still and the garage that originally did it has essentially closed their doors to the public and will not answer my calls.  I have spent too much time and money on this to start all over with another engine shop.  I recently had twins so need to get rid of my toy.  It costs money to run, but it's one hell of a machine.  It's been my baby and when the engine blew at 86,000 miles I didn't really know what to do. The intake on one cylinder had gone and the exhaust on another so it was going to be about $6600 to fix (turns out this is a known issue with 2005/2006 engine)  I had just paid it off, so I took out another loan on it, used that to upgrade the engine for about 10,000.  I had the engine rebuilt as stage 2, transmission rebuilt, and everything tuned and dyno'd.  All in all it has about 300whp.  On an AWD car that works out to a bit more crank horsepower then a normal car.  Conservatively it's upwards of 350hp at the crank. It still has the conservative "break it in" tune.  It never made it back for the tweak.  The turbo is set pretty low but it really kicks in about 3800RPM which you can see in the dyno.  AWD means it just flys at that point. I also have an open google doc spreadsheet of the data I collected using the laptop and the ODBC port about a week or so ago.  I've been trying to get all the paperwork together but it comes with all the service paperwork (mobile 1 from the start) as well as the information on the upgrades, original window sticker, the accessories brochure and more. I'm happy to answer any questions on it. Facebook Gallery with more info Google Docs - Graph and Table of Collected data from a short run on the highway Video -- Acceleration and Blow Off Valve Pictures show additional parts included - original wheels, snow tires, original struts, blow off valve, shifterOn Jun-17-13 at 07:26:31 PDT, seller added the following information: *Update* -- Boost hits about 25 to 27. I didn't want to shoot too high, but after repairing an exhaust leak behind the turbo and replacing the downpipe gasket which was causing the dip in pressure ($150 w/ parts and labor) I can confirm it's 25 to 27psi on the turbo gauge at it's current value. It idles rough -- if it chooses idle level 4 it is smooth as butter, idle level 1 (stock) is rough and can stall. I am unable to determine what causes the chip to choose one idle level over another.I had no issues for about 2 weeks driving it steady once I got it back on the road, never letting it get down to half a tank. Once it dipped I turned the light back off using the ODBC reader and filled up -- it took exactly 7 gallons.You can watch the fuel pressure drop as it progresses. At 7 gallons down it finally falls past the trigger point for the computer check.