1992 Honda Accord

Coupe

F22A6 Short Block, H23A1 DOHC Cylinder Head

Standard/ Manual

1hgcb7276na003756

Clear

93 Octane Gasoline

If you are seriously looking, you will read through the ENTIRE description, in which case you should have the majority of ?'s answered!This vehicle has been 7 years in the making from the time I purchased the 1st part up until completion of the build this past year. I have only owned the vehicle for about 2 years at this point, but the engine, which is the real heart of the entire build, was 7 years coming, originally for my last 92 accord of the exact year/ model/ color, which I totaled 3 years ago. The project was almost abandoned, but seeing as it is not a very common platform to heavily modify, the demand would not merit me making even half back of what I originally paid for parts! The decision was made to finally assembly the engine before I took ownership of a new 92 Accord because I knew in my heart of hearts that I could and would find another car. The 1st thing you’d notice when you car fax or even do a quick search of the VIN is that it started life as an Auto transmission, but seeing as the 1990 - 1993 chassis is that they all had provisions for either auto or standard transmission equipment, I saw no reason why I could ONLY settle for another standard trans equiped vehicle, when I can simply purchase an Auto - Standard transmission mount! The 1st year, the vehicle was driven, as purchased, in Auto transmission trim, but soon after that 1st year, the engine was ready to be installed! Unto the engine and I will continue the story from there: The engine started life as the original F22A6 block from another 92 Accord before my last one that was wrecked. Extensive research was done on my behalf to find a strong engine build combo that would yield not only great custom turbo kit power, but also be unique as well as reliable with large enough power output to keep my adrenaline flowing! During this research period of about 1 full year before the 1st part was purchased, I ran across a thread on HondaTech.com about someone building an unorthodox Frankenstein build of an H22A cylinder head with the F22A block; the reason being identical to the infamous LS/ VTEC build for the Integra/ Civic guys- F22A low compression, iron sleeved block for boost handling ability, and the DOHC VTEC capability and tun-ability of the H22A which utilizes high compression ratio combined with FRM synthetic cylinder sleeves that are highly volatile and susceptible to cracking under boost! Seeing as the most common swap for the 1990-93 accords is the H22Ax platform, I wanted not only to be different, but wanted to build an engine that didn't "need the help of" VTEC and would be built to essentially BE IN VTEC at all times without the "help" of oil pressure to switch over! Once the decision to go H23A non- VTEC but still Dual Cam tun-able, the parts were identified and purchased to begin the build. Bone stock H23A1 cylinder head was stripped, sent to machine shop for resurfacing the mating surface, street/ strip port and polish, standard 3 angle valve seat job as well as gasket matching of intake/ exhaust ports; along with the head, the H23A1 intake manifold was also gasket matched and the lower part of the runners ported as well to ensure rough, but smoothed out transition between manifold and head mating surfaces. The stock throttle body was sent to MaxBore.com for over-boring from the stock 60mm to 64mm, in which case I had the machine shop match the intake manifold's throttle body opening to the new over-bored throttle body as well. The head has been fitted with Crower Dual Valve Spring Kit with Steel Base retainers and Titanium upper retainers along with a set of Crower Stage 2 H23A Turbo camshafts which are adjustable by way of Hayame Adjustable cam gears. Before assembly, I also had a number of components treated with the WPC micro-shot-peeing procedure including camshaft lobes, rocker arm surfaces, crankshaft journals, rod/ main bearings and piston skirt surfaces which is said to help a great deal in reducing friction and increasing surface, and below surface strength The stock F22A6 long block was completely disassembled and brought to the same machine shop, in which case, the block was hot tanked and finished with a dull silver coating, the block/ cylinder head surface was resurfaced, the cylinders were over-bored by 1mm from the stock 85mm to 86mm to accept new forged pistons custom made from CP pistons with a slightly higher than stock 9.0 compression ratio, up from 8.8 stock. After the block work was done, the rotating assembly was balanced; CP Pistons with floating wrist pins, OEM Stock H23A1 crankshaft, and being at the time only one strong option for connecting rods, Pauter Connecting Rods An additional minor addition to engine includes a stock OEM Honda oil pump and a KaizenSpeed balance shaft eliminator kit, to not only cut down on rotational mass, but also assist in slightly higher oil pressure due to blocking the oil passage for the balance shafts. The clutch assembly consists of an ACT Streetlight 12lb Flywheel and an ACT Street/ Strip Stage 3 clutch utilizing a Heavy Duty pressure plate and a 6 puck solid hub clutch disc; I thought this assembly was enough to hold the power, but untuned at only 10psi, I have noticed the clutch slipping, and would recommend an upgrade to the Extreme pressure plate to ensure appropriate clamping capacity. The transmission is a bone stock OEM unit out of my last Accord with an OBX Helical Limited Slip Differential, and even though a lot of people have bad experiences with the company on certain items, I have had ZERO issues with my LSD, even when I beat the absolute crap out of it on my last Accord that was dyno'd at ~240 WHP and `260 WTQ, in which case I snapped an axle before I had any differential concerns, although it was mostly due to excessive wheel hop and super good traction at the drag strip. The turbo kit consists of almost 100% custom components outside of the hard parts, i.e.: turbo, wastegate, blow off valve, intercooler. The Exhaust manifold was built by myself and a buddy of mine who TIG welds, it consists of a manifold "kit" that I purchased here on eBay years back that was made up of a bunch of 90* bend schedule 40 stainless steel piping that we built into a ramhorn style manifold with a side-mount waste-gate that dumps into the atmosphere by way of a pipe pointing straight down and exiting to the driver’s side of the oil pan; the exhaust consists of a 3" V-Band clamp right off the turbo into a custom 3" down-pipe, into a custom 3" stainless exhaust, (side-note: I made a removable test pipe to accommodate the custom catalytic converter that I used to pass CT state emissions with the only help of lowering fuel pressure to lean out the A/R ratio enough which I will also include) The exhaust exits through an APEXi N1 "Turbo" muffler with 3" inlet and 4.5" tip which I have a silencer installed which helps keep my friends at the local Police Precinct at bay since the exhaust un-silenced is ridiculously loud and it doesn't seem to hurt performance in any way, at least at 10psi of boost! The charge piping is a standard cold rolled steel 2.5" piping kit, again, custom made at home, pushing compressed air through a Treadstone 3"/ 8"/ 28" aluminum air to air inter-cooler and using a BlitZ Power Super-Sound Dual Drive Blow off Valve to vent boost pressure on throttle closing. The turbo itself was a project; I started with a Garrett T3/T04E journal bearing turbo with a .63 trim turbine housing, .48 compressor housing stage 3 turbine wheel, and I ended up burning up the bearings from oil starvation due to improper mounting, in which case I just bought a new one and figured I'd save the old one to eventually rebuild myself one day. The 2nd one was good for a while, but Once installed on new engine I destroyed it because, as realized after it was too late, the vacuum port I had the Blow Off Valve hooked into was blocked off from the extra Hondabond I used to seal up a gap in the throttle body due to the over-boring of both throttle body and manifold side. After I destroyed the 2nd turbo, and the original turbo was rebuilt and installed on my younger brother's H22A4 BB6 97 Prelude SH, I decided to finally peruse my goal of a ball bearing turbo! I opted, for most convenience and cost effectiveness to utilize the exact same Garrett T3/T04E turbo, but this time with dual ceramic ball bearing setup and the ability to utilize the same compressor and exhaust housings as well as bolting right up the mounting location without modifications from changes in dimensions and what not. In addition, the new ball bearing center cartridge is water cooled as well as oil lubricated so help even further in terms of reliability, in which the coolant feed and return were tapped off of the heater core hoses to ensure the correct flow of coolant! Chassis-wise, I installed a basic eBay knock-off traction bar with aluminum struts threaded onto and steel connectors linking the front lower control arms solidly to the front cross-member to ensure wheel spin or tire traction to eliminate wheel hop. I also needed to extra room from the square tube cross-member from Honda's bulky stock unit for the 3" downpipe to fit properly. I also installed a full Prothane PolyUrethane suspension bushing kit including ball joint, sway bar end link, and strut upper mount components. The engine is mounted in the engine bay with stock OEM mounts that were filled with 80wieght polyurethane by me with the exception of the transmission mount which was a purchased Auto to Standard conversion mount from Explicit Speed Performance. When I completely stripped the interior, I was stuck on a mental note of saving as much weight as possible without giving up essentials like the armrest and storage pockets of the door panels and the functions integrated into the dashboard, so needless to say, the carpet and all panels were removed from the vehicle including the trunk area. The battery was also relocated to the trunk due to space constraints from the charge piping, installed in a Summit Racing sealed and atmosphere vented battery box, required per any typical drag strip tech inspection. NOW! All that being said, the vehicle is only street tuned by myself with the AEM EMS V1 that I purchased, you guessed it, 7 years ago! The unit works flawlessly, but being that it is only street tuned, I only recomend street and highway cruising and not actual racing, being street or strip, your choice, until you have dyno tuned by a professional!!! My street tune is very basic and runs very rich at certain points, and perfectly stoic at other points. Simply based on the good old "butt dyno", in comparison to my last Accord of ~ 240WHP and 260WTQ at 12psi, this car at 10-11psi must have an estimated close to 280WHP and possibly close to 290 or even 300WTQ, but that’s only SPECULATION based on comparison to my last Accord which WAS dyno tested. I was told by a local tuner, Jimmy who owns The Shop in Norwalk, that a good full throttle tune on a NON VTEC engine would be around $500, possibly a little less including some partial throttle street tuning. The Engine, as it was built, was intended initially to handle no less than 400WHP, with room to grow, but I was guestimated by another local tuner that based on the components of the engine, it SHOULD be able to handle 600WHP or more, but I wouldn't test that if I were you!! Now for the flaws of the car! since it's the most crucial part of the decision making process: 1st off, we'll start with the obvious; The front passengers fender sustained heavy damage due to a fire extinguisher that fell off the wall when I was attempting to mount it back up. The fender was pretty well damaged, but I was able to partially re-configure it back into its original shape as best as possible, however there are still countless cracks in the paint, and it looks like someone did a bondo repair job to it. I also recklessly handled a chainsaw attempting to put it on the shelf above the hood area of the vehicle, dropped it, and the blade damaged the center of the hood. The roof has some dents and scratches part from typical wear and tear and low maintenance on the exterior before I purchased it. It sounds like the bearings are knocking, but n reality, the connecting rods are damn close to contacting the bottom of the cylinder bores due to the connecting rods excessively wide design, in which case I had to notch the bottoms of the bores to accommodate the rods, but they still sound like they make contact at mid-range RPMs. Next, there is a loud rattle/ clunk/ clank type noise from the engine around 1700-2200 rpms, but is not always noticeable. The engine was completely disassembled along with the clutch assembly and cylinder head to identify the noise with no mechanical concerns identified whatsoever. I do know that the clutch making its own clunking, chattering noises due to the extreme nature of the clutch disc and it being a solid hub disc. The floor pan in the driver’s side floor is covered in surface rust along with the typical Honda rot along the rear fender wells above the edges of the rear bumper. I lowered the vehicle on NeuSpeed Race Springs with KYB AGX Adjustable struts as well. in the pursuit for the perfect height, I cheaped out and decided to cut the lowering springs even more to get the car sitting at the height I wanted, so the ride can be very rough! Also in terms of rough rides, the front engine mount was relocated due to the turbo being in the location of the stock mount and replaced with an unconventional but very effective solid steel mount directly from the transmission to the front cross-member to further assist in the traction control aspect, but again, making for a very rough ride. I will also be including the 17" wheels in the picture with Bridgestone summer tires, but note that they are all heavily out of round and have a heavy vibration above 50MPH; along with the OEM alloy 15" wheels with all season tires, on the vehicle now, that are cracked and dry rotted. Please please please feel free contact me with any questions because I know I would personally have a bunch if I was looking to purchase a vehicle! I'll do my best to get ?s answered as quickly and efficiently as possible! And also, if interested, please contact me to MAKE AN OFFER!!! I'm trying to be as transparent as possible, which is why I gave in depth explanations of the issues with the car, so please don't think I am trying to hide anything. Once the vehicle is sold, I will not be bothered with ANYTHING ever again regarding concerns or issues, which is why i'm laying it all on the table. You buy it, it's yours and there are no if's, and's, or but's about it. No money will be refunded if you happen to notice something that you didn't see at 1st. when it's out of my sight, I will never hear about or see the car ever again as long as I live. There are absolutely no expressed or implied warranties or guarantees on the vehicle once sold as well. Non refundable $400.00 deposit is required at auction close if vehicle is purchased, and full payment due within 7 days of auction close. Thanks for looking and happy bidding!