1971 Volvo Other

1800E Unibody Construction

B20, High Comp, 4 Cylinder, Weber 32/36 Upgrade

Manual 4 Speed with Over Drive

184353034308

Clear

Gasoline

1971 Volvo 1800 for your consideration. I found this car covered in dust, after 10 years of dry storage. Three years later, it was finally mine. Rescued! The Professor purchased the car in 1992 and drove it until 2000, body work and paint were completed, then health issues caused it to be stored. Needless to say I couldn't just wash it and drive away. A thorough revitalization was begun. Every inch of this car was cleaned, adjusted, repaired, replaced or upgraded. The list is long, I could write a book. Just ask if interested and I'll post my response. Features the effective, uncomplicated Weber 32/36 Carburetor conversion upgrade. 4 speed M410 with Over Drive. Booster Assisted Brakes and High Back Seats with 3 point seat belts. Safety First. Today it is a eye catching, dependable daily driver. Photos: Dozens of additional Before, During & After photos available. Email me tico240911@me.com and I'll send you the photobucket link. Thanks Shifts crisp, finds all gears no synchro issues. OD works beautifully. Exhaust is tight with a nice, slightly throaty sound. Steers straight, Zero driving vibrations. Brand new 165/80/15 tires, turns on a dime. Shocks good all around, No rust. 4 new brake calipers, and Stainless Steel brake Lines, new synthetic fluid. Booster brakes with minimum effort. Electrical- all lights, gauges, ignition, etc. everything works as it should, except clock. Doors, Console, Trunk and Gas cap all have same working key. Lost ignition key had to be drilled out, starts with a screwdriver, is low priority but is known. Car is complete, however Virgo wheels are not included. Now wears original Clover Wheels. All chrome is in above average condition, door trims have a few dings as most do. Originally yellow was painted Red before going into dry storage. Buffs out deep and shiny. A few areas of yellow can be found in the interior, minor thing, easy to fix but is there. I am a long time Volvo enthusiast, Brickboard.com contributor and VCOA member. I have rescued and refurbished an untold number of older RWD Volvos. I have spent considerable time going through this car. I do not have a lift but have crawled all under this car. For it's age it is in great condition. The minimal rust in the floor pans is mostly cosmetic, has been treated and sealed from the elements with removable HD foil backed rubber roll. These small repairs are totally within the realm of the DYI home welder, materials available at Wolf Steel / Alfaparts.net. All the other major areas of concern are negligible. Photos: Dozens of additional Before, During & After photos available. Email me at tico240911@me.com and I'll send you the photobucket link. Thanks Things that need to be done: Replace the window scrapers, inner and outer Install lower door weatherstripping Replace valve cover with IPD upgrades 2 tierods, One loose but operable. Radio or Void plate. I prefer to sell locally and encourage you to ask questions and test drive before bidding. If you can drive a stick shift well, you are invited. Yes, you can bring your mechanic for inspection. Of course the car will be sold As-Is. I reserve the right to cancel auction or bids. If you want it shipped, my zip code Atlanta, GA, USA 30338. I will be happy to assist unless it becomes a hassle. On Sep-14-12 at 12:29:09 PDT, seller added the following information: Thank you Buyers for all your interest. Lots of Buyers have been asking about the rust on the floor pans. Yes, there is some metal welding work to be done of the floor pans. This is very common. Metal wants to rust it's life goal is to get back to it's original organic state. 41 years of chemistry and elements will cause this. The effected area in the floor pans is approx 1 inch by 8 inches on the passenger pan. The same exact area is affected on the Driver's side as well and then thre is a 3 in by 4 inch area under the foot pad that I cut out already it needs a small patch and you're good to go. Welding upside down, I have never done nor want to do because I dont like getting burned or doing a crappy job on things, which is the way it would turn out if I did it. I have left it so you can see what is really there. Go to youtube and search "Volvo 1800S production line video" Watch this video to see how these cars are made. Paul, I have learned so much about rust lately :) There is the dry surface rust in a few places that comes off on your hands. The floor pan on the passenger side is rusted through where the pan meets the inside rocker, but not into the rocker. So it can be cut out maybe 2 inches to go over and a new piece shaped and welded in place. Done. The driver side has a larger square hole under the foot pad next to the rocker, same area as the passenger side but larger in area. That side of the rocker frame does have a little rust through. But again, the pans are just there to hold up the carpet, the frame is not compromised. My goal was not to do a full rotisserie, concourse restoration. My goal was to resurrect this forgotten beauty into a dependable daily driver, which it is. Taken as a whole car the small amount of rust in the floor pans in negligible. The effected area maybe, represents less than 1% of all the metal in the car. It is a low priority to me since it does not effect the unibody integrity. Watch the Volvo world video on how these were built and you'll see the insignificance of these thin floor pans, they simple hold up the carpet. I wanted a car I could drive. So I cleaned the rusted areas up, sprayed with rust stop and sealed against further moisture penetration. My thinking is that if it took 41 years to get to the level of rust there today, in another 41 years they will still keep your feet from hitting the road and most of us will be gone. It's all relative. If you are an 1800 purest requiring perfection, keep looking. If you are trying to buy a great car at a low price to flip, keep walking. But if you're just want to drive, and gain a working, usable, life experience and do the additional work at your leisure, this may be the best 1800 out there. As I said it's all relative! There is no Rust ROT on the car, meaning those soft, barnicle, crusty, rotted like infection areas, that look solid but you can stick your finger through then. I think the two areas in the floor pans was because someone, over time spilled beverages onto the carpet and left it while it was in storage. The pans are not designed well they tend to hold water with no where to go. Pans are a relatively easy fix. Headlight buckets, shock tower, rocker panels, etc are the big$$$ and time. Please remember it is a 41 year old car that is made of metal. That can rust. Also, just because I did it myself or paid someone else to do it does not mean it is right or that is will be the end of the rust, lost of restoration, re-rust in the same areas. You're buying a car that holds no secrets, you know what you are getting, it's not fresh painted full of bondo. ANYTHING YOU DO TO THIS CAR TO IMPROVE IT, IS AN INVESTMENT, AND WILL INCREASE IT'S VALUE!! That's all I have to say about that. Rich Hi Bob, The only thing I would do before driving it across the country would be to change the tie rod. If you buy it ill replace it before you get here. Other than what I listed it is ready to go. I don't know what an in transit sticker is. I will provide a Ga Bill Of Sale, perhaps you could bring a Temp tag with you from your state. Paul, The engine: Soaked for 5 days before starting, New fuel pump New fuel filters, New spark plugs, Rebuilt Distributor, Rebuilt Weber 32/36 Carb New air Filter All new Hoses, Vac, Cooling, etc. Timing Set Valves Set New Points New Spark Plug Wires New Valve Cover Gasket New Belt You get the picture... Basically everything that could be replaced was. I did a compression check they were all within 5 lbs. What else do you need to know? Thanks Rich