1991 Nissan 300ZX

3.0L V6 Cylinder Gasoline Fuel Turbocharged

Manual

JN1CZ24H4MX504212

Silver with Black Interior 1991 300zx Twin Turbo (5 Speed) with 79,000 miles asking $10,000 I implore you to be very careful when buying one of these cars. Here are the prerequisites I used when I began looking for a 300tt; 1. Under 100,000 miles 2. No shady car fax: i.e. Odometer rollback, salvage title, Junk title, or anything that would raise suspicion 3. No collision history or frame damage 4. Non-tuned Unmolested engine and turbo’s (which is hard to find) 5. Original wheels, interior, and seats, mats ect… This was the best and nearly only example I could find that fit all of the aforementioned prerequisites. I purchased this vehicle 3 years ago and it has been my daily driver ever since. It has always been garaged! Shortly after I purchased the car 1 injector went bad; the stock injectors are no longer made by Nissan and the aftermarket injectors which are supposed to be compatible, are not! I therefore contacted Sebastian at Specialty Z (the nation’s most renowned 300zx experts) and under his advice installed the 300 degree fuel rail kit with 6 new compatible injectors (740cc I believe) and 6 new spark plugs. I decided also to go ahead and enhance the suspension system with: Powertrix Front Adjustastable A-Arms, Powertrix hicas eliminator, Powertrix rear upper tie mount, Powertrix rear adjustable arms, Powertrix tension rods, Stillen anti-sway bar kit(front and rear), and Powertrix adjustable coilovers all the way around; the car has a very firm ride but, could easily be changed to soft with the adjustable dials. I have the clean title in hand and as I said this car has a clean car fax with nothing shady. The drive train is completely stock; cars like this are fun to tune however, with each product you add to the drive train, you significantly reduce the reliability of the vehicle. The motor is very strong and the turbos spool up fast pinning you to the seat. I find that anyone who rides in this example is very impressed with its power and many are dumbfounded when I tell them the drive train is stock. The clutch is very heavy; get ready for a left leg workout (obviously this is not the stock clutch but it is high quality and clearly made to handle more than the stock power; it bites hard and never slips). Again, the motor, tranny, turbo's are original and unmolested. The shifter feels very firm; like a brand new car! With all of the suspension upgrades, the car handles great; I feel very comfortable driving this car at high speeds especially in the turns! The car is over 20 years old and has never broken down, but as you can imagine with a car this old, stuff is going to break. Here is a list of everything I had fixed: new clutch slave and M.C., power steering leak, replace 2 bad coils, and exhaust leak. Recent service done just last week includes: turn all four rotors and 4 new brake pads, full synthetic oil change, 4 new tires (Balanced); therefore, the car is currently running great with absolutely no mechanical issues! As far as I know this car had no prior collision damage; that is until I had a small wreck last year; I cut someone off at low speed (20 mph). Only the right rear quarterpannel was slightly damaged as it contacted the left front bumper of the other driver; as far as I could tell the other gentlemans car wasnt even damaged; it was a clean scrape; door was not damaged nor bumper; only the quarter pannel. (The damage was little over $1000 in repairs) Feel free to contact Fast Enough Performance to inquire about the damage and repair (859-258-2015). Ultimately; there is no way that the frame was damadged. While my body shop was repairing the damage we noticed that the rear wing was cracked and subsequently had water damage; so I decided to completely replace it (The wing is aftermarket as Nissan doesn't make this part anymore, but the new wing has the exact stock look!). I replaced all the black pinstiping that goes along the bottom of the car. The paint on the car looks solid but it isn’t flawless as if you go over the car you will find small chips or scratches (but as you can see from the pictures the car looks great). As i have noticed wear or chips, I have applied touch up paint. The body and undercarriage are rust free except small issues for which I included pictures; the gas cap release has small bubbbling and there are 2 rusty bolts/screws that hold down the tension rod of the front left coilover; both are obviously minor, but need to be addressed relatively soon. If you look at the base of the body you can find small bubbling (i only see this under the doors) In this regard, I have addressed every chip, scratch, scrape, bump, and bubble with fresh touch up paint in effort to extend the paint life (Also, I applied a proffesional base undrcoat and paint to the undercarriage to increase moisture protection; I just added a picture of the undercarriage); I would imagine if you are as meticulous as I, you could easy lengthen the paint life further!Anyway, what I see would seem to be consistent with what you would find on most cars this age. The hood seems to have some scratches on it from where a previous owner used a self service car wash leaving small scratches if you look closely; anyway this takes a carful eye to locate, but I look at vehicles from the viewpoint of a perfectionist; anyway, it seems that the more I wax the car the better it looks. Of course the body has no current dents. The interior including seats, mats, t-tops (no leaks), t-top visors, dash, display and everything is stock; the driver’s seat does have a small crack on the left side. The wheels are stock and you can tell this car has never impacted a curb as there are no visible chunks on the wheels; only the expected minor scrapes. The car does have some quirks as it sometimes idles high around 2000 rpm; the car has done this since I bought it; I had several mechanics try to isolate the cause but, none could figure it out; and as far as has been conveyed to me, it really doesn’t hurt anything. My mentality: I always used 93 octane Amoco fuel, full synthetic oil, I always properly warm-up the vehicle (slow shifting under 3000 rpm, no full throttle) for at least 10 minutes; once it is warm, I drive the heck out of the car! I have taken great care of this vehicle and it is ready to be your daily driver. This is the type of car for an enthusiast who loves this model and understands the necessary upkeep of an older vehicle. I do not believe this car to be a good choice for a young driver as it is too powerful. These vehicles are a “dime a dozen” and I believe it to be difficult to find quality examples; it seems that the low quality 300tt sell for around $7000 and higher quality examples can go as high as $20,000 for a pristine low mileage stock example. I bought the car for $14,000 from Highline imports in N.J.; I have clearly put a lot of my $ into the vehicle with only tasteful enhancements and necessary mechanical work; if you know about these cars then it is easy to access that I used only high quality parts under the suggestion of Sebastian at Specialty Z! I am selling this car because I now have 2 children and it just doesn’t make sense to have a 2 seater and a family; I also just recently ordered a new Subaru WRX STI and need to get this car sold quickly for my down payment. Therefore, I am pricing the car to sell fast at $10,000. I will not take less as I know the car is worth more than that; so don’t offer me less! I have listed everything I know about the car. I would like to address the Autocheck score of 22; as it was higher when I first purchased the car; the issues are the collision, which was so minor that I don't really even consider it signifigant, and the issue of multiple owners, but as I look at the history of the car, it doesn't seem that any owner was too eager to give up the car as it seemed to stay in the same city for a while also the mileage was consistent year to year so u know the car stayed on the road; obviously, I did all my research before I purchased the car with: carfax, independent inspection, and carefull consideration. Ultimately, I considered all the history of this car and knew it was a great car; I hope you will agree! Finally, I have obviously described the vehicle to the best of my ability; it is, however your responsibility to protect youself and proceed in the correct manner. It is always best to come look at the car; so you know exactly what you are getting. Please call me with any questions. Thanks, Thomas VanMeter 859-684-4461 Disclaimer: Again I have listed everything to the best of my ability with the upmost integrity, but I am not responsible for any misconceptions you may have about the vehicle. I always suggest you do several things before buying any vehicle: 1. Carfax and Auto Check 2. Independent Inspection 3. And, Finally First hand inspection before you buy!