1961 MG MGA

1600 MKI Convertible

4 - Cyl.

Manual

GHN3L98154

Clear

4 cylinder

Gasoline

PLEASE READ ENTIRE DESCRIPTION You are bidding on a 1961 MG MGA Roadster. I have had this car for about three years and have been working on it the whole time. The car as you see it pictured is my idea of a good start towards a "vintage racer" look. I bought this car from someone who started a restoration of a good driver and it stalled. This is where I stepped in. What I found was a good solid driver that needed some chassis and body attention. The car had a 1500 in it that was not original.This is a 1600 disc brake (front) drum brake (rear) car. The original motor is not with the car, so I decided to put an 1800 18G motor in it (early MGB motor). It is a direct bolt in upgrade that can be changed to a 1600 to put it to original if you wish. I rebuildt the engine: New rings and all new bearings/gaskets. The standard pistons were re-used and the crankshaft did not need to be turned, just cleaned up and new bearings. I have rebuilt a few of these and this motor was very clean and must have been a low mileage motor. Head had new valves and valve guides installed. New springs and valve keepers.I rebuilt the transmission to include complete tear down and replacement of the synchros. New clutch and pressure plate, put it all back together with rebuilt 1.5 Twin SU's and slotted the whole thing onto the workbench while I restored the chassis. Chassis:Replaced floorboard rails and inner chassis face of the cockpit area that so usually rots out from the wooden floorboards retaining water. Spent about $500 in new floorboard rails and repair panels. For the areas that needed custom templated and fabricated repair panels, I used 14gauge cold rolled steel, not MILD steel. I am an avid welder and I use the proper materials to repair the chassis. My local steel supplier is well stocked and I am glad to have them. The transmission tunnel front and rear were repaired and modified to accept the thick aluminum floorboards. I don't like trusting wood to keep road debris from shooting up from the road into my leg, so it is outfitted with aluminum floorboards in the entire cockpit. The interior was my next step, so I put in a cheap carpet kit and replaced the brown leather seats that were originally in the car. The wood dash was also what the car came to me with. I had to repair the wiring harness where the previous owner cut it in two at the firewall to facilitate harness removal. I put the harness back together properly with crimp fittings and solder, with heat shrink tubing around every wire. The engine wiring was done, but I have a few terminations that need to be sorted (turn signals and brake lights need their grounds re-done). Ok, so that's as far as I have taken this project. I had a set of minilites and a competition windscreen that I put on the car to see how she looks so far. What do you think? I think it looks pretty nice. Now, the nitty gritty. I have fixed the mechanicals and the rust in the chassis (the really expensive and time consuming bits).The front and rear wings (fenders) are basically just bolted on with a few bolts and the door lock hardware is only installed on the driver's door to facilitate test driving. My next project was to tackle the bodywork. The nose has been "clipped" at some time long ago, this means that the nose section on the main body tub has had the front 12 inches (including the grille aperture) replaced with a donor section. This was not done by me. It is an amateur job, but for a racer project, who really cares? it looks pretty good! The sills and B posts will need to be replaced as will the doglegs of the rear wings and the lower few inches of the front wings. The trunk floor also needs to be replaced and I have plenty of pics if you are interested. The car basically needs a full body restoration, but it is not a total rot box. The main chassis is sound and well restored. The drivetrain is completely rebuilt and runs/drives. The second gear synchro still wants to grind a bit on downshifting, but Heck this was my first transmission rebuild. It may need to have it removed and have the second gear synchro ball detent springs replaced/sorted. Or you can drive it as is. So, you can pick up where I left off. Most of the difficult work has been done, and it runs like a champ. I just started it in 25 degree weather after sitting since the summer. It started right up with the choke on and before you knew it, she was idling like it was summertime. 60lbs of oil pressure at startup and 40 at idle at 190 degrees once warmed up. I encourage you to come and take a look at the car. Check out my feedback, I am an honest trader and you will see that I have 100% positive feedback. You don't get that by lying on ebay. I have sold about a dozen cars on ebay, sent them to Portugal, Italy and Australia. Understand that this car looks great in the pics, the paint looks shiny, but understand that this car needs to be completely taken back to bare metal and the body needs to be properly restored. OR, you can bolt it all up and run it as a rat rod. The brakes and hydraulics have not been touched, they work just fine, I have not gone that far int the restoration. So, why am I selling? I have enjoyed this project, but I just moved into a new farm this year and I want to build out my man cave. This is the one project that I am comfortable with selling, as I have had my fun with it. Its time for the next person to take it to the next level. VERY IMPORTANT. MUST READ:The car is pictured with Minilite wheels, competition windscreen, competition steering wheel, racing radiator grille and racing Enots fuel filler. THESE ITEMS are NOT FOR SALE in this AUCTION. The car will come with STEEL WHEELS with radial tires that are just used to move the car around the garage. The racing screen is a cut down full windscreen that I made. It can be sold with the car at an additional cost if you want it. The car will be sold with a regular windscreen. A standard 1600 grille will come on the car. There will be a top frame that will come with it, but no top. There is not a complete set of Cockpit trim (this is how the car came to me). It WILL come with a front and rear bumper. The interior is incomplete, and comes as pictured. The steering wheel that will come on the car will be the standard equipment steering wheel. The Competition components ARE available for sale to the winning bidder. Just understand I put these items on the car so you can see the look I was going for. If you have ANY questions, please contact me. Here are some links :http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/mgcarma/Craigslist%20Red%20MGA/ http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y165/mgcarma/red%20mga%20progress/ Payment: 10% paypal deposit due within 48hours of end of auction. Balance is to be paid upon pickup of car. I will asssist YOUR shipper with an overseas sale. I will deliver the car to Baltimore for $350. This is not my first car sale, so if your email even hints at something hinky, I'll just ignore it. Car must be paid in full before it leaves my property. Title is clear and in hand. VIN is GHNL98154The engine number is 18G-U-H 29426 The car is NAMGAR registered and is number 6509. This car is honestly described and I welcome inspection of the car here in Culpeper, Va. Please contact me to set up an appointment. _gsrx_vers_421 (GS 6.0.9 (421)) On Feb-01-11 at 17:00:08 PST, seller added the following information: There is also a red fiberglass front valance that comes with this car. I forgot to mention it. Thanks.On Feb-02-11 at 16:16:52 PST, seller added the following information: Hi there, I also have the red front valance for this car. It comes with the car. The car is located in Culpeper, Virginia 22701. About an hour Southwest of Washington, D.C.