1979 Triumph Other

Coupe

Buick V6 3.9 L

Manual

TCW104950UF

Clear

Gasoline

TR7 with 3.8 L Buick V6 engine I am selling my 1979 Pageant Blue TR7 coupe with tan interior because I don’t have time to drive it and it is much too nice to sit. When I graduated from college in 1977 my first car was a 1977 TR7 coupe which I owned for 4 years before I needed to move to a car with 4 seats. Now some 30 years later I wanted to get another one. I spent some time trying to find the nicest one I could, but rust free well maintained or restored examples were hard to find in PA. I found this car in 2008, and over the past 6 years I have poured a ton of money into upgrading it. Here’s a list of everything I can think of that I put into the car: Buick 3.8 L V6 engine conversion from John’s Cars. I bought a 1983 turbo Buick engine from a Buick Turbo Regal (there wasn’t a Grand National in 1983). I had it totally rebuilt from the ground up at a cost of over $2K. I had visions of using the turbo to smoke off TR8s but it sat too high in the engine bay to clear the hood without major body work to the hood. I considered adding a big scoop but the hood was just too nice to modify so I scrapped that idea. I do have the turbo, fully rebuilt by Garrett with the last rebuild kit they had. If the new owner wants to buy it we can discuss that, otherwise I will sell it separately . The transmission is the 5 speed from the Buick, it was in excellent condition and didn’t need rebuilding. It has dual ANSA exhaust, it sounds really nice. Kind of a cross between muscle car and Euro. New aluminum radiator and dual electric fans. Wilwood brakes from Woody’s Wedge Shop. I upgraded to 5 15 inch Rota wheels to clear the brakes, and 205/50R-15 Kumho Ecsta ASX tires. The spare just fits in the well, but I had to move the jack to the shelf behind the gas tank at the front of the trunk. I probably have about 500 miles on these tires. Suspension upgrades, KYB shocks and poly bushings Audio, I added a Retrosound receiver and 4 upgraded Kenwood speakers. I didn’t modify the dash at all, and the speaker grills all look period appropriate. Plus a bunch of other little upgrades like a new antenna, Silverstar headlights etc. All of the work was done to the highest standard by Triumph Rescue in Bally PA over a period of about 18 months. Before the conversion the car took first place in class at the Cars Of England car show in West Chester PA, I haven’t had time to show it since then. I took the car for PA state inspection 2 weeks ago to make sure it was in sound running order, the only work needed was to replace the throttle cable which was jamming up. A replacement was sourced from Summit Racing and now it’s nice and smooth. Condition: External paint and bumpers are 9/10 to 9.5/10. There are only a couple of small chips, the car looks great even at close inspection. Interior is even better, 9.5/10 at least. Door cards are perfect, windows crank easily and seal correctly, the seats are nice and soft, no dash cracks, lettering is perfect, carpet is perfect, headliner doesn't sag, and the visors are in excellent condition. I added really nice coco mats that complement the interior. A/C blows cold, the Freon level was just confirmed at state inspection. The car is essentially rust free, I kept it garaged almost the entire time I owned it. The car is straight and clean, as far as I can tell it’s never been hit. All the frame rails are straight and there’s no crumpled metal in the front or rear. Running condition is 8/10. The car starts and runs fine. Typical TR7/8 issues like the headlights not popping up or the clock not working are all working 100%. Of course it isn’t perfect, known issues are: #1. The alternator sometimes lets the voltage sag a bit at idle, the alternator is almost new but I think the voltage regulator might need attention. When the voltage drops the temp gauge goes up but it’s only a bad reading, the car doesn’t really overheat as confirmed by IR sensor reading. When the voltage is at 14 V the temp gauge is rock solid. #2. The carb needs some tuning, you will occasionally get a sputter as it warms up. Once it’s up to temperature it runs fine. I added Stabil to the gas but I last filled in the fall so new gas will help. #3. Last year the trunk leaked a few drops when I washed it but I replaced the trunk gasket and I think it’s cured. #4. You need to fill the gas tank slowly or it will cut off on you prematurely. #5. Heater box leaks cold air out the vents in the winter, you get heat from the floor but you need to aim the vents away from you.#6. The odometer reads 4624 but I'm not sure of the real mileage, it read about 3 K when I bought it. That’s all I can think of.To see many more hi res pictures email me, eBay won't let me include a link to my PhotoBucket slide show. I have tons of money invested in this car, I’m not sure exactly how much because I told my wife (who pays the bills) that she is never allowed to tell me how much it all cost. I never cut corners on anything we did to it. It’s a nice car but it’s time for someone else to enjoy it. I have no illusions that I’m going to get anything like the amount I put into the car (whatever that was) so I have set a market place reasonable reserve on the car. The car is being sold as-is with no warranty of any type. The PA title is clear. If you would like to see the car or arrange for inspection, or you have any questions please contact me before you bid. I will not retract bids. The winning bidder will need to forward a $500.00 deposit via PayPal within 12 hours of winning. The balance due must be paid within five days via wire transfer, certified funds, or bank check, to be worked out at that time. At that point you can come to pick the car up or arrange to have it shipped. Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE On Jun-07-15 at 09:43:30 PDT, seller added the following information: IMPORTANT NOTE: I was cleaning up and I discovered I have a new tach for the car, I should have mentioned that the tach in the dash reads about 10-20% low. You have to convert the 4 cylinder tach to read properly with the 6 cylinder engine and I don't think this was done properly. I did the conversion on the new tach, I bench tested it and it reads with 100 RPM at 5000 so it's almost perfect. I forgot to mention this because I hardly ever look at the tach, I go by the sound of the engine! I will of course include the new tach with the car, it's a pretty easy job to swap out, well documented on the web. Sorry for the confusion.