1961 Plymouth Fury

convertible 2 door

383 V8

Automatic

3311138473

Clear

Gasoline

UP for bids is a rare 1961 Plymouth Fury Convertible with a big block V8 and Automatic. It has the SQUARE steering wheel, plus PS, PB and (can have) FACTORY AC!!! Reserve is reasonable and the BUY IT NOW feature gets you some extras- see below! this is a car worth 30-35k restored and is easily worth what is being sold for in parts alone! I have a crazy amount of parts for this car- some duplicates, some triplicates and some new/NOS- see below, plus contact me after the sale as I will be selling the leftovers under separate auctions or as a package deal. You get the best versions with this car purchase. CLEAR NM title in my name- still registered- so real easy to title in yours! This Carnival Red with Red/White interior car is a very unique fully loaded model, and has a certain "look" to it that sets it apart at the car shows- it certainly is something NEVER Seen on a daily basis. I believe this is the only 1961 Fury Convertible in the State of NM or even the region! I planned on restoring this car but needed to move on to other projects, so this is a great project to get going on. ALL of the hard things have been restored, located and are present with the car. This car came with power brakes (accordion bellows style) with a push button 3 speed TorqueFlite automatic. It has power steering, 11" monster drum brakes and an 8-3/4 taper axle rear end. First the facts on the car: BODY: (now its not too pretty, but look closer and you will see why this is a good deal) THE GOOD: not one bit of rot anywhere to be seen on fenders, floors, doors, rockers, quarters or convertible well! ANOTHER THING- NO BONDO ANYWHERE!! Truly a desert car! ALL GLASS IS PRESENT and window regulators work just fine. NO CRACKS IN THE IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND WINDSHIELD! with only one very very small rock chip on the edge ( somebody may have repaired it that's how small it is) There is a small "potato" sized hole where it did rust in the trunk- see pic- it could be easily patched and never seen with a mat. Despite the pics showing SURFACE RUST, you could take a hammer to each and every inch of this car and not bust through- VERY SOLID and whole. All original metal, but since someone got carried away with a crowbar to the passenger fender and the dash ( trying to get at that funky rear view mirror and antenna I guess) I am including a complete set of fenders and a complete color matched A/C (yes FACTORY A/C) dash frame loaded complete with all of the factory mounted goodies including ALL of the factory louvers and spot coolers as they were called with the car! I even have the evaporator housing that goes in the firewall, and (not shown) the heater core that bolts to the firewall side of it. The blower housing under the dash is included too, and the motor was tested to be good. You will need a new vacuum pod master control as the buttons are really stiff and some of the plastic tits may be broken off at the vacuum hose connection, but it is the SAME ONE as everyone is selling these days- I may have a good one to throw in if you select" buy it now" feature- winning bidder must ask. I have the drivers side FENDER MOUNTED remote mirror in a box that is exceptionally nice and it too goes with the car. Miles of Chrome- all nice for sure! the trunk lid does latch- we took the latch and lock out of it for easy access. I have a set of door handles with locks that match a set of keys that go with it, but they will need to be lubricated. I have a trunk lock for it, not sure if key fits it. I have also included cut to fit window whiskers and roof rail rubber seals from Andy BernBaum back east, as this is a crispy desert car, and rubber is needed. He has other parts if needed and Kanter may as well. THE BAD: as this car is 53 years old and wearing most of its original paint ( and some hokey 200 dollar paint special over the years), it needs to be painted. And this thing is HUGE! Like land yacht huge! it will require lots and lots of sanding and body care that I just didn't have the patience for. Some dents, dings in the doors, quarters, fender and such are the norm- see the pics- all minor if you or your body guy knows what to do. Sheet metal is thick on these! Also it appears as though it ran into something and bent up the front 3 piece bumpers and guard- I have included a replacement set of bumpers ( front 3 piece and rear single piece) and bumper filler panel pair to address that. The small hole in the trunk flat floor mentioned above is the only rust we found- the rest is purely surface rust and faded chalky primer. There is some undercoating on the underside of the hood from the factory, and throughout underneath, which has possibly saved this car from rotting away. The rear springs are soft too- heavy car + long time = sagging rear. Re-arch or replace is recommended. ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN: THE GOOD: This auction will include a 1961 HP virgin/ uncut 361 block still very dirty, and uncleaned 361 standard bore pistons WITH THE SPECIAL FLANGED CRANK (NEEDED TO MOUNT THE TORQUE CONVERTER) ALREADY POLISHED TO STD/STD that has had the oil holes chamfered and all journals polished by Edwards Engines in ABQ. No heads or top end with the 361. HOWEVER, I will even throw in a set of matched ROD AND MAIN BEARINGS that work with this crank all neatly labeled and ready to go. PLEASE NOTE: this early style crank will drop in perfectly into a 383 later style block as the rods, journals and dimensions are all the exact same from 1961 to the later 64 and up style. I found this out as 361 pistons are harder to come by than 383 ones. This crank is included so the tranny can be used, or you can just run your own drivetrain ( the FP mounts will bolt to a later block) and buy adapter mounts from Schumacher- your choice. I have included a fresh brand new set of FLOATING POWER ENGINE AND TRANNY MOUNTS to bolt the motor right up. Transmission is fully rebuilt with all new parts inside and detailed ready to go by United Transmissions in ABQ. Cross member is there, just not in pics. Driveshaft is in great shape and will bolt to the rear parking brake drum setup ( also included, just needs to be cleaned up and mounted to the tranny snout). Axle is in car- I think it is a 3.23:1 but not sure. I have an 8-3/4" axle housing, backing plates and axles from an early B body (64 and later style) that would bolt in, should you not like to mess with the tapered axles. I have a core rebuildable "floating power" power steering pump and new hose set that goes with this car as well. IF YOU DO NOT WANT THE PERIOD CORRECT DATE CODED BLOCK PLEASE LET ME KNOW, I HAVE A 1965 383 LONG BLOCK THAT GOES WITH IT REGARDLESS as a core. Successful bidder must tell me if they want it as it will be hard to transport- either way they get the crank so it works with the tranny and torque converter. I have a brand new reproduction shift cable (a 300 dollar value), all of the hardware, original park brake cable, and all of the covers, bolts, nuts and such to completely finish the main hard to find parts of the drivetrain, just minus a carb and wires hoses etc. I even have a new starter for this car- AS IT TAKES A SPECIAL KIND TO MATE WITH THE BIG BLOCK BELLHOUSING TO CI TORQUEFLITE TRANNY. THE BAD: its not a running drivetrain, but its all there to build. Technically you will need to go through the core and do a standard rebuild with that crank, or start with the 361 and build it up. also the tapered axles need to be converted over or dealt with- but its all there. Brakes need to be dealt with, but I am selling a DISC BRAKE CONVERSION SETUP THAT FITS THIS CAR IN ANOTHER AUCTION SOON. These kits are available on Ebay all the time though. MOLDING/CHROME: THE GOOD: Every molding that goes on the car is 1)on the car in good shape and needs polishing, 2) dented/dinged but I have a nice replacement that just needs the same or 3) simply not on the car and just needs to be installed again. You will not need to source any moldings as its all there! it even has the rare front fender fascia moldings that go with it (on the extra set of fenders that go with the car). We have spent a lot of time sourcing these on EBAY and in desert junkyards, so you wont have to. I EVEN HAVE A BEAUTIFUL SET OF REAR TAILLIGHT ASSEMBLIES ALL POLISHED UP WITH NO PITTING AT ALL, NEW LENSES AND A SET OF NEW BACKUP LENSES THAT GO WITH CAR. the ones shown on car are not very good but may be polished and reworked for spares. Ask for pics if you need to see them. All emblems are intact and go with the car as well. THE BAD: no one repops this stuff, and it is usually stainless steel, so if there is something dented we missed, its a little harder to fix. Also it just needs to be "dealt with" and CAREFULLY removed for paint and some of those clips are hard to find. TOP FRAME: is a powered unit from the factory and is complete and moves up and down manually but is completely missing all fabric and window. No well liner, no boot cover, nothing soft left. I have checked the wiring to the pump and it flows thru the dash switch just fine, but the pump is seized along with the pistons, so a complete setup will be needed- hoses, pistons and pump. All can be had for about 600-700 bucks online at Hydro-E-Lectric out of Florida or EBay on line. I have even seen the top for sale, but plan on an experienced installer to deal with this. also missing one chrome trim section on the driver's side but it looks like you could cut it from a hardtop piece I have included since its the same profile ( its the piece that holds the roof rail rubbers in place). BRAKES: I rebuilt the booster at Karp's- see pic- and they even dichromate plated the end plates and detailed it for show. you CAN convert these to dual master cylinders, its easier to get to the fluid cover with this style as you can collapse it and check the level ( unlike the KH unit that is a solid canister). FRONT END: I have every replacement front end part needed EXCEPT THE INNER TIE ROD ENDS: Control arm upper and lower bushings, strut rod bushings, ball joints ( upper and lower), adjusting sleeves, and the hard to find NEW CENTER DRAG LINK. There is another power steering gear that goes with the car complete with column ( they bolted to each other directly back then). Everything needed to put her back on the road safely. Square steering wheel with chrome center "PLYMOUTH" pieces is included but needs cosmetic restoration- just the wheel is on car now- see pic. GAS TANKS: there are two used but clean ones that go with the car plus one installed- use the best one. ELECTRICAL: the wiring is complete but a little worn. Most of it is pliable and usable, plus the engine/forward harness is built in to the dash harness on these, so the replacement dash will have this as a backup. I haven't really checked the rear light harness but its all in place so it should be ok. Sold as is. The brake light switch is pressure based ( screws into the bottom of the single pot master cylinder) and I have included a new switch for that. New lenses on the replacement taillight assemblies (as stated above) and there is an extra set of front signal assemblies with good lenses on the replacement fenders- no cracks. DASH/SPEEDO/GAUGES: as I stated before, you get a superb replacement dash with all of the installed accessories ( you just drill the hole for the top switch) to replace the "vandalized" one in the car. you don't needto pull the glasso n this- it just unbolts around the top and two sides and it comes right out. It even has the radio still there, plus all gauges and clock are there, and appear to have nice faces. You will have a pair of each gauge (the original and the replacement dash ones), so pick the best. The speedo "drum style" is a cool unit that works- I can spin the ferrule on the back, plus the replacement dash has a better looking one. The top "cover" is included- its just not in the pic, plus the spare cover goes with it. TIRES/WHEELS: rollers that hold air. all steel factory units, but nothing really more to be proud of. A set of factory hubcaps goes with it. SEATS/INTERIOR: included is a set of period correct upholstered white bench seats, with the front being a split back feature for rear seat access. upholstery is older 90's redo, but no cuts and very soft and comfortable. Also I cant find the seat tracks for it but these came from a 1960 model and has frame supports on it, so you would just have to drill new holes in a flat floor and bolt it up, or fab something up to raise lower it if its not "right" for you. Also the rear seat frame will need to be modified a bit- the frame "back" has little "wings" on the top it that will not allow it to fully drop in between the rear lift covers (the bottom fits perfect), but its an easy fix and good luck finding original seats for a 1961 Plymouth convertible! The door panels are tired but complete, and the drivers door panel is destroyed, but the red armrests and lft mechanism "quarter" inside panels are there, just need recovering. Also needs carpet, seat belts and a trunk mat. So that is pretty much it on the car. I know so much more about this, as I have researched it thoroughly, and enjoyed the "hunt". I am a proud member of our local Mopar Musclecar Club of New Mexico (google us!). I have been restoring and working on cars for about 20-25 years now and this would have been my 7th frame (unibody!) up resto. So please ASK QUESTIONS BEFORE YOU BUY OR BID! I will be glad to answer them! Now for the sales part: Buyer MUST SEND A $500.00 DEPOSIT VIA PAYPAL within 24 hours of AUCTION END! NO exceptions PLEASE! NO deadbeats! you will be reported! I have been very honest and truthful about this very good project- I hope that you will too. THE BALANCE IS DUE IN FULL VIA PAYPAL OR USA DRAWN BANK CHECK (no personal checks please! if you have the money, go to the bank and get a check). once it clears MY bank in full, I will overnight the clear title to you, and the car is yours to transport. INTERNATIONAL BUYERS: US funds only, no Nigerian scams, no BS! I want this car to go to a good home and would love to see pics of it restored- I can offer advice after the sale too. TRANSPORTATION: BUYER MUST ARRANGE! I can help load it up on a transport, and we will box everything we can and put it into the car and trunk, but there is a lot of parts like fenders, motor blocks etc that will be very big and bulky. Please arrange to get all of this somehow, or contact me. With a BUY IT NOW Price, we will install the fenders and dash on the car, and if time permits, we will simply set the core motor in the engine compartment. We will work with you to get this into your driveway- we just will NOT pay for it. BUYER MUST ARRANGE ALL SHIPPING AND PAY FOR IT- NOT INLCUDED IN THIS PRICE! We have a trailer and can transport it in the ABQ Metro area if reimbursed for gas etc- contact me first to go over options- NO DELIVERIES OUTSIDE OF THIS AREA!!! On Aug-21-14 at 17:00:08 PDT, seller added the following information: ******************************************************************************** UPDATE: please contact me if unsure about what is included with the ad. What I describe in the listing is what is included in the bid and if bid exceeds our original Buy it Now Price of $6700.00, the items/services we list as conditional to a buy it now feature will be included then (provided the successful bidder wants these done or included). you will get one complete set of clean useable moldings with the car, either installed already or boxed- regardless of bid at this point. also the casting date on the 361 "date coded" block is 1/10/61 and the stamping at the Distributor housing reads "R 361 HP" I am unsure of the '65 383 numbers. As mentioned in the ad, we have extra parts for sale and will be listed under separate auctions but I can discuss total package deals and provide what is available that way. If the car does NOT hit our original Buy it Now price, then the extra items/services I listed as conditional only to the Buy it Now will not apply. This is an amazing project car and will be the ONLY thing like on the road once you are finished! Hope this answers some questions- good luck! *********************************************************************************