Detail Info for: Volkswagen : Beetle - Classic Standard 1965 VW Beetle - Restored

Transaction Info
Sold On:
09/21/2013
Price:
$ 9801.00
Condition:
Mileage:
35
Location:
Bothell, Washington, 98011
Seller Type:
Vehicle Specification
Year Make Model:
1965 Volkswagen Beetle - Classic
Submodel Body Type:
Engine:
1200CC
Transmission:
Manual
VIN:
Vehicle Title:
Clear
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:
Vehicle Detail
Restored 1965 VW Beetle. This car started it’s restoration with a fairly rust free body, it spent most of its life if Eastern Washington and Idaho (nice and dry!). A previous owner replaced the rear half of the floor pans, the rest of the surface rust I found was treated with rust converter and painter with POR15 = NO RUST! Car drives excellent, starts right up and has some pep to it! Engine does not smoke and no growls or odd noises from the transaxle. Brakes stop firm and do not pull, steering is tight and true. I wanted to keep it as true to its originality as I could with a couple small changes – I even left it 6 volt! Has a clean Washington State title in my name, I have not registered or licensed it yet. Here’s what’s been done: BODY Recently painted Color code L313 Leed Green (Stock 1955 Beetle color option). PPG urethane basecoat / clearcoat. 3 coats of clear, wet sanded with 2000 and polished to a mirror finish. I haven’t even waxed it yet! Bumpers are clean, good chrome and dent free New German running boards and body trim New wiring cover (Hides the dash wires when you fill it up! Pop out rear side window, all glass is OEM VW with the exception of the windshield ALL NEW SEALS – Yes, every seal I could remove I replaced with new – Doors, windows, decklid, trunlkid.even the wiper grommets. No drafts or odd odors when driving it. I mean EVERY SEAL IS NEW! Undercarriage was wire wheeled and re-undercoated DRIVETRAIN Engine has approximately 35 miles on a professionally rebuilt 1200CC engine. Built stock with the exception of a big bore kit, increasing the displacement to 1341. Kept is simple to keep with the classic look of the car. Engine was built by Connecting Rod NW and is still under warranty!! Every belt and hose was replaced. New clutch and throw-out bearing was also installed. Installed a new 6VBosch Starter (yes, I replaced the starter bushing tooJ, Brand new Optima 6V redtop battery (installed it this week) Stock heater boxes (hooked up, diversion flappers to go from the rear to the front are not operable but they come with the car. You can turn it from hot to cold with the levers just fine). Transaxle runs quiet, added urethane bushings. Tires have approximately 500 miles on them (still have the little rubber nubby’s in some places) Shocks are not OEM but they do not leak or make any noise No slop in the steering box, car tracks and steers wonderfully. INTERIOR Original interior was completely removed, the underside of the roof and the floors were wire wheeled and coated with POR 15 before being covered with factory style insulation which includes a thermal barrier new TMI headliner was installed, TMI carpet kit in Oatmeal, and TMI Door panels, kick panels and seat covers in Beige were installed. E brake has a new boot as does the gear shifter – I converted the interior knobs from gray to ivory so AL LTHE KNOBS ARE BRAND NEW. New glove box liner installed, installed a new OEM speaker in the proper location. The interior is brand new…and nice! Being this is a 48 year old car, there are a still few things I haven’t been able to finish – while the auction is going I’ll try to complete items from the list below, if not the parts (if applicable) come with the car. When I got the car all the lights and accessories worked, I took it apart to paint it, slowly started putting the wiring back together and that’s where it’s at now. There’s enough put back together that it starts and drives reliably but not sure if the lights work….It just needs to have point A connect back to point B. I haven’t bought visors or door armrests yet – I think that’s something the new owner would like to do yet. TERMS AND CONDITIONS I am also selling the car locally and reserve the right to end the auction at anytime. $500.00 nonrefundable deposit Via PayPal due within 24 hours of the auction ending, remainder due within 48 hours of auction ending. I’ll accept the remaining payment by cashier’s check or money order ONLY (no PayPal for the remainder, just for the deposit). The car does not leave until your payment has cleared and been verified. Buyer is 100% responsible for transportation of the vehicle. I can help load it or be here when the truck gets here to pick it up but that’s it. There are no warranties or returns. Period. If you have any questions, ask them and if you want to come see the car send me an email and we’ll set up an appointment. Vehicle must be gone within 7 days after payment has cleared. Bidders with less than 10 feedback or with excessive negative feedback will have their bid cancelled unless you contact me 1st.sorry, been burnt before. On Sep-15-13 at 18:19:00 PDT, seller added the following information: Ive received quite a few emails regarding the condition of the electrical system. It is still the original wiring and I have no reason to believe its not still in good shape based of how strong the car starts and runs. Here's a summary of what I see that needs to have everything operational: HEADLIGHTS AND TAILLIGHTS - I've cleaned all ground locations and reinstalled the ground wires. Headlights, turn signal lights and brake lights are all connected at the lights and have newer, working bulbs in them. TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS - When I got the car the wires from the switch to the junction inside the hood were just crimped together. I cut out the tacky crimps and found used, but good, correct factory connectors. You'll need to connect (4) wires from the turn signal switch to the new connectors (they are color coded so should be straightforward), plug in the harness (power) wires and go. I did label them before taking them apart. I never got a chance to check to see if the blinker module actually worked. ***NOTE** - If I remember correctly, the headlights wont work until the turn signal lights do. I'd work on the turn signal light wiring 1st RADIO & WIPERS - Neither are hooked up but all e wiring is there. its a total of 6 connection between the 2 and they should work. I never tested the radio when I had it out, but when had the car it never had a speaker. It now has a brand new speaker, i'd expect it to work fine (those radios barely ever break). Radio Antenna is in but the cable between the antenna and radio is missing (5$ part) The original wiper arm assembly and motor were SHOT when I got the car, I installed a good, used, operable wiper arm assembly and a good 6V motor (check my feedback in my recent auctions and you'll see them in there). None of it is hooked up but I' not anticipating any problems. DASH LIGHTS - bulbs are present, never tried to see if they worked in the daytime so not sure if there ever was a problem with them or not. Based onthe condition of the rest of the car i'm assuming its just a matter of reinstalling the lights into the proper socket and should work once the lights work DOME LIGHT -Drivers side switch and seal are installed, ensured the dome light harness was routed correctly and the wire from the door switch to the harness is installed. The car comes with a brand new Pass. Side door switch, dome light assembly and 6V dome light bulb (not installed). To get the dome lights working, you'll need to 1. Install the PS switch and wire it to the fuse box area. 2. install the dome light assembly and bulb. 3. connect the 2 leads to the dome light harness and plug the harness into the fuse box. So that's everything I know about the electrical system. The generator runs fine, no growls and I installed new motor bushings during the engine rebuild. 6V coil gives a strong spark and the distributor is a brand new 6V unit. Basically, everything is back at the fuse box, there shouldn't be any running around or taking the car apart the car unless you are troubleshooting something. In My opinion, somebody with electrical knowledge could get everything working on a Saturday afternoon without too much work. If you'd just rather send it to a shop I had an estimate of $300.00 to get everything working (my reserve reflects the option to take it to a shop to get the wiring completed). If youre not too electrically inclined, ill send the wiring diagram with the car. if you've already bid on the car and this description changed your decision I'll allow you 24 hours to back out of your bid - just send me an email and its done. In Summary, there really isn't a whole lot of electrical that needs to be done and can be finished in an afternoon with a little bit of electrical knowledge. With everything else that's been done already, once the electrical is sorted out your investment just grew much higher than what I have my reserve for.