1988 Jeep Cherokee

Sport Utility

4.0L 242Cu. In. l6 GAS OHV Naturally Aspirated

Automatic

1JCMT7898JT030463

Clear

GAS

For sale MAKE OFFER!! ASK ABOUT SHIPPING!!- put some money and time or just pay mechanic to diagnose and fix. and it will run an drive better then lot of the many out there.. simple stupid fix. problem.- IT starts and stalls. Injectors stop receiving signal. someone told me it could just be the ignition key lock linkage and assembly in steering column, or I thought the ECU which is $160. new, and put it on the road and drive. Or For Parts or easy fix for mechanicly inclined with time. Its 1988 Jeep Cherokee. I believe it is the pioneer, or one of the hi-end versions It has power everything. Leather seats. part-time/full time 4wd-np241 transfer case recently replaced. Has brand new stock tires. new CPS sensor, IAC sensor, Alternator. Several other parts. Cap-rotor. I added a radiatior hose inline fill cap to get rid of the pressurized system thatI had problems with. It ran fin after. Had it running for a short while after that and it never got hot or overheated. The jeep was owned by older gentleman, who put lots of time and money into it. as you can see it was painted flat black and gold. The jeep has absolutely no rust holes or rust underneath. No dents. good glass. Interior is good. needs cleaning but all power stuff works. I have 4 jeeps and love this one, but need money for other projects. It has about 220k mikes on the clock, but I don't think that is correct because it ran to well, and has no rust. Previous owners took well care, and it mite possibly have even been rebuilt. But it drove and ran like it had under 80k. Better then my 2001 I had. I bought this jeep for double what I am asking because it was rust free, and un-molested never messed with. Was planning on doing a 4" lift kit, and 31-33's tires because it was such a solid truck. It ran fine several drives. 4wd works great in part time and full time,( tested in snow) Then I started encountering problems. It had the notorious jeep-renix CPS failure so I thought. Hard starting, wouldn't start. start stall.. etc. I would let it sit a cpl weeks then it would start rite up. the next time it would just start and stall. Rite now it starts then stalls. I have figured it out that the injectors stop firing after a couple of seconds of it firing over. Thus the reason for the new sensors and alt. I narrowed it down to 2-recals or the obvious problem. the ecu. I believe its the ecu. But there were 2-recalls. 1- run the crank sensor wires direct to ecu bypassing firewall connector. 2- clean all grounds, firewall connector, and even add some extra grounding from battery to motor to firewall etc. I never had time to try running the wires direct to ecu, or re-grounding everything. because I think it just needs the ECU replaced. I went over everything else except for those possibilitys, and replacing the ecu which was next. The rear doors and hatch interior panels are off, someone started to change the speakers, and fix the one door linkage. I have all of the panels. I also have all of the other parts.It may need a couple little things, vaccum lines, speaker covers, A/C return line. Butt most parts that are off are in trunk. If you are looking for a solid, clean, un-molested jeep to build this is it. Either that or you can strip it and make your regular sport or wrecked Cherokee ito the hi-end model with the part time/full time t-case which is nice for a daily driver. I also have a factory service manual for it, on disc, and most of original manuals. There is no way to use the check engine light to check for codes with these because it is a Renault-Bendix ECU-EFI system, which is actually a great system, except for the dioagnostic part. But the Disc and gives you all the info you need. And I also have a binder with the factory service info printed on, and all the other tons of info you could need about the renix Cherokee. Also there are many sites on the web that helped me out with it. One is Lunghd.com also other Cherokee/jeep forums. The jeep is a perfect solid builder jeep. Or perfect' project. I wouldn't be surprised if you put a 150.00$ ECU in it, and it started rite up. As said everything else is replaced or working,Some minor things like a/c line disconnected, and a couple vaccum lines. But I have went over everything I knew and had time to, except for the 2-recalls and or the ECU which can be done in your driveway. After it runs it wouldn't need anything that I know of to pass inspection. I really hate to sell this jeep because they are getting hard to find solid- and un-molested. But my loss is your gain, I need it gone and have enough other projects. If you have any questions just ask. Will need to be towed. Jeep is sold as is, I have clean title. Notary is 2 miles down road. As I said my loss your gain. All said and done I have over $2200.00 approx. in jeep. I know you cant get that back with any vehicle so make and offer. You could sell the drivetrain/trans and or the np241 part-time/full time transfer case that was just replaced..quick $500.00 engine ran strong, clean for its age, typical 4.0 i6 could sell a quick $4-600.00 The axles, $300.00 or take the parts you need and scrap the rest for 250-300. For buy now price I will throw in brand new budget boost 2.5-3" spacers and add a leaf.If you would like, And For a little extra 2 pairs of 31"s both sets still have good tread .and another pair are brand new practicly. The combo on the jeep, an rattlecan paint the fender flares, grille etc. and you'll have a nice Cherokee to have some fun with. update- I had the vehicle running, It turns out it is a good chance al it needs is a ignition key switch and the linkage to the control solenoid that turns the ecu and everything on for it to run.Or still the ECU which just cost some cash and plug it in and go.