1972 Volvo

ES Wagon

4 - Cyl.

Manual

1836353002349

Clear

Gasoline

For your consideration: Yellow 1972 Volvo 1800 ES restoration project or driver. Serial number: 1836353-002349 Configuration: Stick shift with overdrive, air conditioning Colour: 107 yellow (however re-painted at some point) Upholst: 442-817 S: 6077 121,747 miles are believed to be original. Additional pictures at http://www.flickr.com/photos/29396384@N05/ View pages 1-5, note the yellow ES. Pages 4 & 5 have many under-carriage pictures. WHY ARE YOU SELLING THIS 72 VOLVO 1800 ES? I bought this yellow 1972 1800 ES off eBay 2-1/2 years ago. I was looking for a solid ES as a project car for a drive-train transplant followed by a resto-mod. Since that purchase I have been too busy with work and overseas travel to do anything to it. Later I bought a running 73 1800ES with the thought I could drive that ES while working on the resto-mod on the other. (I am the only guy that shows up at Volvo gatherings without a Volvo!) I had planned at a future date to sell the stock 73 ES after I finished the resto-mod 72 ES. At the moment I have (5) older vehicles, here are the other (3) · 1973 Pinto 1600- daily work beater car. · 1979 Pinto – wifey’s summer fun car · 1984 Audi 5000 wagon with 31,000 miles – pull the jet ski, travel, & wifey’s winter car. Because I have been traveling so much I have been paying for repairs on the 84 Audi when I am out of town. This is costing me a fortune. I am having another $4,000 dollars in repairs being done right now so it will be set for the winter. Needless to say, wifey is getting upset on the Audi gremlins and having her Pinto sit outside. (It is getting rusty and the interior/vinyl top is fading) Getting rid of the Audi is probably the smart thing to do, but I like the styling and the way it drives. I would rather have the Audi than a new econobox. So we will give the Audi one last chance. So the 72 ES must go to pay for part of the Audi repairs and allow garage space for wifey’s Pinto. RECENT REPAIRS PERFORMED LAST WEEK – GETTING IT STARTED FOR THE FIRST TIME: · Re-fogged & re-oiled the cylinders. Added new gas. · Upper radiator hose & antifreeze. · Changed the oil & filter. Cranked engine without plugs to build oil pressure before starting. · Adjusted the valves with new valve cover gasket. · New fuel pump & filter. · New plugs, points, cap, rotor, wires. The engine started up and sounds good. It runs better with the coolant temperature sensor disconnected, however it smells a little rich. So it probably needs that sensor or a fuel injection check-up. I see no fluid leaks. Oil pressure is 35 pounds at a hot idle. It does not overheat even when idling for a period of time. Last week it was 83 degrees when I started it. I drove it around the block a few times. (no plates or insurance!) The clutch, transmission, and drive-train all seem to function well. The car rolls freely at first, but I did notice that one of the front brake calipers would progressively drag more as driven. So plan on rebuilding the front brake calipers. That said, you will NOT be able to drive this car home if you purchased it. However it will drive well to get it on or off a trailer and any moving around you need to do. I would limit it to two short city blocks of driving unless the calipers were fixed. IF YOU WANTED THIS CAR AS A DRIVER: (quick survey) · Rebuild the front brake calipers for sure. Plan to inspect all the brake components, hoses and bleed out the old fluid. · Change the engine coolant temperature sensor and have a fuel injection check-up. · Mount radiator shroud better. (It is only tie-wrapped) Replace radiator cap & reservoir cap (old) · Change all fuel lines. They are old. Mount the fuel pump better. · Change transmission and rear end fluid. (probably old) · Inspect the front suspension for wear. Steering gearbox is still full of fluid, but should be adjusted. · Air Conditioning is there, but not functioning. · Horn blasts all the time with the key on. I pulled the wires from the horn. (that scared me!) · Check/change air filter. Change the fuel filter again after some driving even though it is new. · All gauges work except the oil temperature gauge. No radio. · Tires are old and should be replaced. However they do hold air, even all winter long. BODY AND UNDER-CARRIAGE · Paint is faded a chalky yellow. It will polish up. I did a small test area near the sunroof. · The top side of the body has hail dents. I have an extra hood in the rafters of my garage. · Needs hood hinges. I have a set to go with the car. · The rear valance area around the tail lights is slightly pushed in. You can see this in the pictures. · The only rust concern is behind the driver’s side rear tire. Replacement panels are available. The remainder of the body is very solid. See picture of the inside of the fender-well light bucket area. I ran around with a magnet looking for past cover-ups and it seems very good. · See under-carriage pictures. Rusty under-carriages on these cars are infamous. Having a bad undercarriage can make or break a Volvo 1800 project. It is not perfect, but has a good base for a restoration project or a driver. If a driver, I would recommend cleaning up the frame rails and coating it with POR 15 or similar protection to maintain the present under-carriage status. · Doors open & close well. Keys work. · Rear hatch will need shocks to stay open on it’s own. Rear hatch key works! · Bumpers front and rear are in very good condition as is the grill. · Front windshield is fogged near the bottom. But clear in the viewing area. · Needs right windshield wiper and left side mirror. Cowl air vent grille should be replaced. · It looks great at 20-50 feet :^) and in pictures. However up close you will realize this is not a beautiful car in any manner of speaking. Keep in mind that my low asking price reflects this. INTERIOR: · The interior does needs a general overall restoration. However, for a driver it wouldn’t look too bad if you added dash caps and shampooed the rear carpeting. See pictures. · New rear view mirror! The only thing I did to the interior. · The front seats are not too bad, but there is some rips on the driver seat seams. The recliner knobs need to be adjusted to hold the recliner mode more firmly. I read that they just need to be unscrewed and re-installed taking up a few threaded turns. The left rear seat has cracks, see pictures. TERMS OF SALE · I would require a $500 deposit within one week of the end of the auction to show your sincerity. However, I offer the $500 deposit as refundable if you come out to view the car and do not like it. I could never understand why someone would insist on a non-refundable deposit on a “sight unseen” vehicle. · The car would not be allowed to leave my property until it is 100% paid in full. · If you plan to have the car shipped, plan to see the car before making the final payment so you know what you are purchasing. I want you to be satisfied. Nothing worse than buying something unseen and having an unwelcome surprise or buyer’s remorse after you receive it. I am only 30 minutes from the Detroit Metropolitan airport (airport DTW). I am 20 miles south of Detroit, zip code 48138. · I believe I am offering the car at a very reasonable price. I used a fixed “BUY IT NOW” price of $2650 so the price will not get overbid. I want a satisfied buyer. I am not selling this car to make a profit. I paid more for the car even without knowing if I could get it running. (I didn’t care at the time because I was planning to modify it). However, for you it is good to know it is running condition. · Title is clear and in my name. No problem.