1984 Chevrolet Blazer

SUV

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

1G8ED18J8EF196426

Diesel

10% of this sale will go to the Monroe County The Red Cross. 1984 K5 Blazer (D10 military Blazer) Mileage is approximate, speedometer cable is broken, but I bought it with 84k miles and haven't driven it very much. Mostly driven around the woods on the property, but has made a few highway trips with no problems. I have no idea what's up with the 'history report'. The VIN listed is correct, and the title transactions appear to be correct. Possibly because it started life as a military vehicle? 1G8ED18J8EF196426 is indeed the correct VIN. 6.2 Diesel, naturally aspirated (no turbo) NP 208 transfer case TH 400 transmission 10 bolt axles with Gov Lock rear 37x12.50x16.50 Goodyear Military MT ~75% tread (balanced with Equal) 4" Tuff Country springs in front (~5" total lift) ORD Fush greasable shackles (rear of front springs) (http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/FUSH.htm) Greasable front shackle bolts (front of front springs) Stock rear springs with blocks 6.5 serpentine setup with AC compressor (not connected but installed on engine. this was done shortly after the pictures were taken, it's not shown in the pictures.) Single alternator, all 12 volt. New thermostats (6.5 dual thermostat housing) New high output alternator New starter New glowplugs New fan and fan clutch (larger 6.5 fan buzzes shroud a bit when it body flexes) New Injection pump New Injectors New Spin-on fuel filter with pressure gage (installed after pictures were taken, in factory filter location) New lift pump Both Batteries ~1 year old Disconnect switch in cab (not shown in pictures) Manual glow plug switch with two 40 amp relays (one for each side) H4 Halogen headlights Heavy Duty 2 1/2" receiver, wired for trailer lights Manual windows and locks Trans fluid and filter changed last year Synthetic Rotella since I've had it. Horn does work when connected to 12v, but I'm guessing the horn switch wasn't installed correctly in the aftermarket steering wheel, and it doesn't work with the horn button. Right front turn signal doesn't work either, but those are the only two things I know of that don't. Recovered stock seats in excellent shape Carpet in decent shape, but full of dog hair. No, it won't be cleaned before you buy it. Body has typical midwest rust, so don't act surprised about it if you buy it, but it is mechanically sound and the engine and transmission are in great shape. Was fairly quick with 33's (quicker than the average 305, but not as quick as a 350), but is a bit of a dog with the 37's and the factory 3.08 gears. With 33's and 3.08's it would get about 25 mpg on the highway at 60. Front tires are worn a bit oddly from being toed out, but the don't pull or handle oddly. Toe is correct now. I have a pair of 4.10 1 ton axles, Dana 60 front and 10.5" FF 14 bolt rear with a Detroit Locker that I planned to install with the 37's, but I have too many trucks and need to sell this one. If you have a 6.2 that won't start, remove the junk factory fuel filter and install a spin-on, it will probably solve your problem. The factory filter usually leaks and sucks in air, preventing the 6.2 from starting, or causing super long cranking to start. The spin on filter solves that problem and gives better filtration too. Use Buy It Now and you can have the axles for an extra $500. Both are complete except for left parking brake cable, and were in working order (should still be). Rear is a government surplus and front was removed from working truck. Front is complete including lockouts. If you want the axles you must be able to load them from a rough gravel/stone driveway, so have a hoist in the bed of your truck, a winch, a come-along, or a bunch of guys. PAYPAL only. Payment due at end of auction. You can pick it up or I'll work with you to ship it.