1988 Chevrolet Camaro

IROC-Z Coupe

8 Cylinder 5.7 Liter

Automatic

1G1FP21F5JL194635

Gasoline

I'm selling a 1988 Chevy IROC-Z Camaro in Dark Red Metallic with a tan cloth interior that I picked up approximately 3 months ago as a project car. PLEASE NOTE: I'm being EXTREMELY thorough in my description because I want any potential buyers to know what they're getting here-- I have nothing to hide. I'm a car enthusiast, 20 years old, and have a great appreciation for these vehicles. If I didn't have to sell the car for my education, I wouldn't. But it should be noted that this car DOES need work. When I bought the car, the previous owner told me that the car was originally a 305TPI car. (Decoded VIN, true statement) In or around 2006, the previous owner replaced the 305 motor with a 350 SBC motor of unknown origin or miles (told it's either from a truck or van, dished pistons instead of the Camaro's flat-top, thus dropping compression), and reused the 305 heads (to bump up compression drop from dished pistons, to TPI's range), swapped in a 350TPI cam, and reused the TPI setup. He also removed the stock exhaust manifolds for headers, and removed the entire AIR/Smog system. The charcoal canister is still there, but not sure if it's hooked up. In 2007, the previous owner grenaded the transmission, and parked the car at his apartment complex until I picked it up from him in January 2010. After I purchased it, I did whatever work I could in my parents' driveway. I didn't even have the chance to register the car. Here are the specs/info on the car: 1988 Chevy IROC-Z Camaro. 118k on the body.Dark Red Metallic exterior.Tan cloth interior.Front disc brakes/rear drums.Pretty sure it has the 2.77 or 2.73 rear gears that came standard.T-tops (locking-type, but wasn't provided keys) with bags in hatch.350TPI motor. Could be from truck or van. Previous owner said he had the motor rebuilt before it was transplanted into the Camaro, and that he put less than 30,000 miles on the car before the transmission went.700R4 transmission from a Third-gen Firebird.Power windows, doors, hatch release.Headers, y-pipe (rusty-- probably original), intermediate pipes, Flowmaster muffler (single-in, dual-out).MAF de-screened (was done by previous owner).Smog/AIR system removed.TB Coolant bypass mod performed.Custom-burned PROM (unsure of specs), but was also given the OEM PROM. I was told to run Premium at all times.Fuel pressure gauge installed at regulator. Not sure, but the regulator may be adjustable.Had a working aftermarket alarm at one time. Uses an external unit (included)/cable to arm it.JVC headunit (Front speakers are fine, rears are blown).Dash appears to be new and in great condition-- no cracks at all. Center console has a few cracks around the screw holes, but is in decent shape. Here are the things I have replaced/added: Front seat covers.Recently-rebuilt 700R4 transmission & torque converter from a 1988 Firebird.New flexplate.New shift linkage, although the shop I brought it to couldn't fabricate a bracket for the shift arm, so they modified the cable to make it work.Replaced fluid reserviors under hood.New battery.New spark plugs (Bosch, I believe) and wires (Duralast) that I modified (clipped to length and crimped new ends).New fuel filter (FRAM).New OEM rubber transmission mount.New Energy Suspension Polyeurethane sway bar end links.New ECM bracket (Not installed, the old one is non-existant, ECM has been laying on interior panel).New Sylvania Hi and Low-beam headlamps.Wrapped the headers in header wrap, as the previous owner complained of melting ignition wires. I also quickly fabbed up some clips to route the wires more cleanly using the valve cover bolts. Upon inspection of the car, here are its problem areas: Small but serious exterior rust spot on the passenger's side A-pillar. It will need to be sand/media-blasted or ground out and a patch panel will need to be welded in place. There is also a fair amount of rust in the t-top channels as well. They will need to be treated at the very least. Car needs to be painted. Clearcoat has flaked off, and the body kit has faded.Dent of unknown origin on the passenger's side front fender, right above the side marker. Could probably be hammered out, just didn't get around to it.Rust around metal trim on rear hatch, some of which spread to a section of the hatch area on the vehicle itself.Passenger area carpet needs replacing. There is some sort of stain on the carpet behind the passenger's side that could indicate rust. Never pulled up the carpet, however, I have inspected the car from the bottom, and there appears to be no rust on any of the floor pans whatsoever.A/C does not work, but all the components are in place. It still uses the old R-12, and would need to be charged and/or converted.Headliner needs to be replaced. Most of it is already gone, and from what I can see, the headliner board appears to be in good shape.There is some rust in the T-top channels beneath the T-tops. They don't appear to be bad, but definitely needs to be treated.Tachometer doesn't function. The previous owner purchased a SunPro tach that worked for about 2 weeks, but read inaccurately. From what I've been told, it's just a wiring issue, but I haven't had the time to fix it.Catalytic converter PROBABLY needs to be replaced. At idle, it has a bit of a rattle to it, headers may need new gaskets as well.Rear hatch has the electronic locking/release mechanism but hasn't worked since I had the car. The hatch needs new struts, but never replaced them since I didn't have a way to lock the hatch anyway.Power door locks need work. The switches and contacts probably just need a good cleaning, as the actuators can be heard working.The car has the fog lamps installed, but aren't functioning. They either need to be rewired or replaced, just never got around to it.Previous owner had cheap tint installed on windows that needs to be removed. The windshield isn't bad, and I removed the tint on the driver's side window (long process), but the tint is still on the passenger's side window and the hatch. (The hatch will probably need replacing anyway, due to the rust I previously mentioned).I have both hood louvers, however, there are studs missing on each (not sure of how many) and won't secure using the clips. They would need to be modified somehow.Car needs new tires. The car sat for 2-3 years with the previous owner, so the tires have dry-rotted a bit. Anyway, like I said, I'm being thorough so as to not lead to any confusion about the car's condition. The car runs well, just needs a little work. If I had the money to register it and and add it to my insurance, I would, but I can't swing it at this point. The car runs and drives and can be used as a daily driver if you chose to do that, but does need work. The car has monstrous amounts of torque and is an absolute BLAST to drive. Anyway, if you have any questions, feel free to email me with ANY questions you may have and I'll provide my email and/or cell number and we can talk.On May-06-10 at 18:14:33 PDT, seller added the following information:Just to clarify: all sales are final, please read the terms of the sale ($500 deposit due within 24 hours of close of auction, with the rest of the amount due in cash within 7 days of the end of the auction). The car is listed locally, and as a result, I reserve the right to end the auction at any time, but will provide the opportunity to all bidders to at least match the amount being received locally. Thanks.On May-07-10 at 20:51:17 PDT, seller added the following information:Here is a video of the car running: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iq3R5trDKko Smoke is from condensation, and it was about 45 degrees outside. Motor doesn't smoke at all.