2001 Kia Optima

2.4L Dohc

KNAGD126415024961

Clear

Gasoline

The car is for sale as is. For either simple repair and drive, or for parts. Either way complete. Nothing missing. Almost everything under the hood has been changed. Just so for the ones whom may ask after reading the ad, YES. I am An Automotive Tech, with extensive knowledge and experience of 15 plus yrs in both the Import and Domestic automotive field. Have built many show / race (track and street) / as well as many of team cars in fast & furious (first title). With that all said, you can understand why i went to the limits of basically rebuilding the whole powertrain and everything attached to it. THIS MEANS THE CAR IS SET FOR ANOTHER 13-14 YRS USAGE READY -Whats all been done: Replaced engine at 118,000 due to spinning a rod bearing, and journals damaged... Replaced with 82k mile Engine.. After engine swap,.. every so often,. ECU will throw a MIL and code out,,. and started off a Domino ripple on PARTS REPLACEMENT.... Replaced -- - Both ignition Coils - Wires,. Sparks Plugs. - Crank and Cam Shaft Position Sensors - Fuel Pump and Relay (Relay was overheating/worn out) - IAC - TP - MAP - O2 Sensors - Changed All,. Tested.. both Resistance values for iac, map, tp,. and dwell on O2's to be sure. - MAF Sensor changed few yrs before replacing Engine. - Changed majority of the Relays (Just for good measure) - Fuses all good - - ECU/ECM, as I noticed the Unit Was heating up and shutting off the engine after 15-20 minutes,.. O.E. Ecu had a Ckp circuit malfunction, from bad grounding point (choice) during a Jump Start,.. I just gave up on wanting to fix it after the extensive parts replacement period of the last yr all to find out the culpuret is a nagging short in the main harness from engine bay to ecu/ecm, that has been causing the engine control module to heat up and go into a safety shut down mode. The optima will start up and drive and run fine for 20-25 minutes till the short causes enough intermittent signal loss and voltage fluctuations to the ecu and shut down. At which point have to reset the ecu via a obdii scanner and then drain the mem by disconnecting battery Over night. Ive replaced the ecu thinking of damage, but sure enough is fine, a $400 dollar extra double check expense. Myself and a fellow autotech (well over 35+ yrs in the field) tackled from all angles and finally put the last bit of testing, directly checking each harness end for continuity, came to notice voltage spikes and intermittent loss of signal. Which is a short as it was same repeat in a coordinating parallel wire in the harness...... AT THIS POINT, ITS A SIMPLE STRAIGHT FORWARD FIX, FOR ANYONE WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING KNOWLEDGE. JUST TRACE THE ELECTRICAL LINES AND REPLACE THE SHORTING WIRES. WILL END OFF IN HAVING A PRACTICALLY FULLY REBUILT POWERTRAIN-AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. (You can also take it to a shop, or have a mechanic do for yeah.. ) Feel free to inquire with any questions. LOCAL PICKUP ONLY. If interested in purchasing the Engine and Transmission assembly, you can take the whole car along with.On Jul-21-14 at 06:16:24 PDT, seller added the following information: The car is for sale as is. For either simple repair and drive, or for parts. Either way complete. Nothing missing. Almost everything under the hood has been changed. Just so for the ones whom may ask after reading the ad, YES. I am An Automotive Tech, with extensive knowledge and experience of 15 plus yrs in both the Import and Domestic automotive field. Have built many show / race (track and street) / as well as many of team cars in fast & furious (first title). With that all said, you can understand why i went to the limits of basically rebuilding the whole powertrain and everything attached to it. THIS MEANS THE CAR IS SET FOR ANOTHER 13-14 YRS USAGE READY -Whats all been done: Replaced engine at 118,000 due to spinning a rod bearing, and journals damaged... Replaced with 82k mile Engine.. After engine swap,.. every so often,. ECU will throw a MIL and code out,,. and started off a Domino ripple on PARTS REPLACEMENT.... Replaced -- - Both ignition Coils - Wires,. Sparks Plugs. - Crank and Cam Shaft Position Sensors - Fuel Pump and Relay (Relay was overheating/worn out) - IAC - TP - MAP - O2 Sensors - Changed All,. Tested.. both Resistance values for iac, map, tp,. and dwell on O2's to be sure. - MAF Sensor changed few yrs before replacing Engine. - Changed majority of the Relays (Just for good measure) - Fuses all good - - ECU/ECM, as I noticed the Unit Was heating up and shutting off the engine after 15-20 minutes,.. O.E. Ecu had a Ckp circuit malfunction, from bad grounding point (choice) during a Jump Start,.. I just gave up on wanting to fix it after the extensive parts replacement period of the last yr all to find out the culpuret is a nagging short in the main harness from engine bay to ecu/ecm, that has been causing the engine control module to heat up and go into a safety shut down mode. The optima will start up and drive and run fine for 20-25 minutes till the short causes enough intermittent signal loss and voltage fluctuations to the ecu and shut down. At which point have to reset the ecu via a obdii scanner and then drain the mem by disconnecting battery Over night. Ive replaced the ecu thinking of damage, but sure enough is fine, a $400 dollar extra double check expense. Myself and a fellow autotech (well over 35+ yrs in the field) tackled from all angles and finally put the last bit of testing, directly checking each harness end for continuity, came to notice voltage spikes and intermittent loss of signal. Which is a short as it was same repeat in a coordinating parallel wire in the harness...... AT THIS POINT, ITS A SIMPLE STRAIGHT FORWARD FIX, FOR ANYONE WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING KNOWLEDGE. JUST TRACE THE ELECTRICAL LINES AND REPLACE THE SHORTING WIRES. WILL END OFF IN HAVING A PRACTICALLY FULLY REBUILT POWERTRAIN-AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. (You can also take it to a shop, or have a mechanic do for yeah.. ) Feel free to inquire with any questions. LOCAL PICKUP ONLY. **NOTE** Registration status --> As of end of JUNE 2014, been registered under Non-Op. Take as is. Tow car as is If interested in purchasing the Engine and Transmission assembly, you can take the whole car along with.On Jul-21-14 at 07:27:45 PDT, seller added the following information: The car is for sale as is. For either simple repair and drive, or for parts. Either way complete. Nothing missing. Almost everything under the hood has been changed. Registration status --> As of end of JUNE 2014, been registered under Non-Op. Take as is. Tow car as is. LOCAL PICKUP. SHIPPING I HAVE NO IDEA WITH A CAR. PICKUP IS ON YOU THE BUYER. Obviously must be towed with non op registration as of past 3 weeks. But i would suggest towing regardless to ur home if you are going to fix it, or a shop of your knowing to fix the short in the harness. PLEASE READ THE COMPLETE DESCRIPTION BELOW. Just so for the ones whom may ask after reading the ad, YES. I am An Automotive Tech, with extensive knowledge and experience of 15 plus yrs in both the Import and Domestic automotive field. Have built many show / race (track and street) / as well as many of team cars in fast & furious (first title). With that all said, you can understand why i went to the limits of basically rebuilding the whole powertrain and everything attached to it. THIS MEANS THE CAR IS SET FOR ANOTHER 13-14 YRS USAGE READY -Whats all been done: Replaced engine at 118,000 due to spinning a rod bearing, and journals damaged... Replaced with 82k mile Engine.. After engine swap,.. every so often,. ECU will throw a MIL and code out,,. and started off a Domino ripple on PARTS REPLACEMENT.... Replaced -- - Both ignition Coils - Wires,. Sparks Plugs. - Crank and Cam Shaft Position Sensors - Fuel Pump and Relay (Relay was overheating/worn out) - IAC - TP - MAP - O2 Sensors - Changed All,. Tested.. both Resistance values for iac, map, tp,. and dwell on O2's to be sure. - MAF Sensor changed few yrs before replacing Engine. - Changed majority of the Relays (Just for good measure) - Fuses all good - - ECU/ECM, as I noticed the Unit Was heating up and shutting off the engine after 15-20 minutes,.. O.E. Ecu had a Ckp circuit malfunction, from bad grounding point (choice) during a Jump Start,.. I just gave up on wanting to fix it after the extensive parts replacement period of the last yr all to find out the culpuret is a nagging short in the main harness from engine bay to ecu/ecm, that has been causing the engine control module to heat up and go into a safety shut down mode. The optima will start up and drive and run fine for 20-25 minutes till the short causes enough intermittent signal loss and voltage fluctuations to the ecu and shut down. At which point have to reset the ecu via a obdii scanner and then drain the mem by disconnecting battery Over night. Ive replaced the ecu thinking of damage, but sure enough is fine, a $400 dollar extra double check expense. Myself and a fellow autotech (well over 35+ yrs in the field) tackled from all angles and finally put the last bit of testing, directly checking each harness end for continuity, came to notice voltage spikes and intermittent loss of signal. Which is a short as it was same repeat in a coordinating parallel wire in the harness...... AT THIS POINT, ITS A SIMPLE STRAIGHT FORWARD FIX, FOR ANYONE WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING KNOWLEDGE. JUST TRACE THE ELECTRICAL LINES AND REPLACE THE SHORTING WIRES. WILL END OFF IN HAVING A PRACTICALLY FULLY REBUILT POWERTRAIN-AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. (You can also take it to a shop, or have a mechanic do for yeah.. ) Feel free to inquire with any questions. LOCAL PICKUP ONLY. If interested in purchasing the Engine and Transmission assembly, you can take the whole car along with. On Jul-21-14 at 06:16:24 PDT, seller added the following information: The car is for sale as is. For either simple repair and drive, or for parts. Either way complete. Nothing missing. Almost everything under the hood has been changed. Just so for the ones whom may ask after reading the ad, YES. I am An Automotive Tech, with extensive knowledge and experience of 15 plus yrs in both the Import and Domestic automotive field. Have built many show / race (track and street) / as well as many of team cars in fast & furious (first title). With that all said, you can understand why i went to the limits of basically rebuilding the whole powertrain and everything attached to it. THIS MEANS THE CAR IS SET FOR ANOTHER 13-14 YRS USAGE READY -Whats all been done: Replaced engine at 118,000 due to spinning a rod bearing, and journals damaged... Replaced with 82k mile Engine.. After engine swap,.. every so often,. ECU will throw a MIL and code out,,. and started off a Domino ripple on PARTS REPLACEMENT.... Replaced -- - Both ignition Coils - Wires,. Sparks Plugs. - Crank and Cam Shaft Position Sensors - Fuel Pump and Relay (Relay was overheating/worn out) - IAC - TP - MAP - O2 Sensors - Changed All,. Tested.. both Resistance values for iac, map, tp,. and dwell on O2's to be sure. - MAF Sensor changed few yrs before replacing Engine. - Changed majority of the Relays (Just for good measure) - Fuses all good - - ECU/ECM, as I noticed the Unit Was heating up and shutting off the engine after 15-20 minutes,.. O.E. Ecu had a Ckp circuit malfunction, from bad grounding point (choice) during a Jump Start,.. I just gave up on wanting to fix it after the extensive parts replacement period of the last yr all to find out the culpuret is a nagging short in the main harness from engine bay to ecu/ecm, that has been causing the engine control module to heat up and go into a safety shut down mode. The optima will start up and drive and run fine for 20-25 minutes till the short causes enough intermittent signal loss and voltage fluctuations to the ecu and shut down. At which point have to reset the ecu via a obdii scanner and then drain the mem by disconnecting battery Over night. Ive replaced the ecu thinking of damage, but sure enough is fine, a $400 dollar extra double check expense. Myself and a fellow autotech (well over 35+ yrs in the field) tackled from all angles and finally put the last bit of testing, directly checking each harness end for continuity, came to notice voltage spikes and intermittent loss of signal. Which is a short as it was same repeat in a coordinating parallel wire in the harness...... AT THIS POINT, ITS A SIMPLE STRAIGHT FORWARD FIX, FOR ANYONE WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING KNOWLEDGE. JUST TRACE THE ELECTRICAL LINES AND REPLACE THE SHORTING WIRES. WILL END OFF IN HAVING A PRACTICALLY FULLY REBUILT POWERTRAIN-AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. (You can also take it to a shop, or have a mechanic do for yeah.. ) Feel free to inquire with any questions. LOCAL PICKUP ONLY. **NOTE** Registration status --> As of end of JUNE 2014, been registered under Non-Op. Take as is. Tow car as is If interested in purchasing the Engine and Transmission assembly, you can take the whole car along with.