2001 Audi A4

2.8L V6 Cylinder Gasoline Fuel

Automatic

WAUDH68D41A123362

This ’01 A4 Quattro looks, runs, and drives well for its age and mileage. I commuted about 500 miles per week between Lexington, VA and Washington, DC (School-to-Internship) for several months over the last year. Why am I selling? I am moving to Manhattan in less than one week where it would probably cost more to park through the end of summer than the car is worth. Sorry about all the stuff in the car; all of the carpet/seats hidden by my belongings are in great shape. This car has the following features which, per Cars.com, were not standard on the 2001 2.8 Quattro: Bose Sound System - $???Heated front seats - $600Leather upholstery - $1,320Power moonroof - $500High intensity discharge headlights - $500 (note, the low beams are pretty dim; maybe new bulbs?)Garage door transmitter - $5005 speed automatic - $1,100Sequential sport shift - $1,100 (I'm assuming this is the steering wheel shift buttons)Auto-dimming door mirrors - $500 (not positive about this)Auto-dimming rearview mirror - $500Yakima Roof Rack Included!Here's three videos of the car:http://youtu.be/Am6b_eV4wjIhttp://youtu.be/4RLOfH7C_vwhttp://youtu.be/GwuLGa2p2BA What does it leak/burn? Oil and coolant. It seems to favor leaking oil and burning coolant. Expect to see some smoke coming off the engine after getting it warmed up. These symptoms have been consistent for my year owning the car; it has never overheated or thrown a low-oil light. I have put about 1.75 quarts of oil and .75 quarts of 50/50 coolant into it for every 1,000 miles driven. You can see how much oil there is on the ground, in the spot where I park approximately every-other day. What does it need? Nothing to drive, but a mechanic has recommended new oxygen sensors to overcome the check engine light, which has remained on for about 85-90% of my ~18k miles with the car. Most of the pixels on the display between the speedometer and tachometer are bad, as shown in the video.I would recommend new rear rotors and pads (i.e., brakes) as well.In hindsight, I think the squeaking noise, which I described on the video as a possible wheel bearing, is more likely a rear brake pad squealer, due to the linear relationship between vehicle (cf., engine) speed and squealing rate/intensity, along with the absence of any relationship between lateral acceleration (turning) and squealing. Nonetheless, I’m not a mechanic so that one’s on you!Upon lively (but not heavy or light) acceleration, there is some vibration between approximately 21-24MPH. I don't know what the problem is. It has been doing it for several thousand miles.The front-passenger seat belt does not recoil into the B-pillar as it would in a new car, i.e., it often needs a little push to rewind itself.It might benefit from an A/C recharge. On the ~600 mile road trip I just finished, it worked great ~90% of the time. It has worked great, on average, about 80% of the time. When it doesn't work, it just blows outside-temperature air.Please note, the driver’s door was obviously dented and knocked back out. The door/window work fine.I have done my best to take pictures and videos of all the worst things about the car. I will post answers to any questions asked for everyone to see. What have I done to it? I had all 4 tires replaced ~6 months ago and got a New York State inspection. It failed the inspection due to the check engine light and front tie rods. I had Dunn Tire in Rochester, NY replace the front tie rods and do a 4-wheel alignment, because I thought it was a safety issue.I replaced the battery and alternator about a month ago. No problems since. Delivery: The car must be picked up in the New York City area within 5 days of the auction ending. I would be more flexible but for the cost of parking in Manhattan.... Also, keep in mind, the car has no NY inspection sticker.I reserve the right to cancel this auction and sell the vehicle independently at any time prior to completion!