1995 Dodge Dakota

Sport Pickup truck

2.5L 4 Cylinder Gasoline Fuel

Manual

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Clear

Rear Wheel Drive

Electric

Thanks for taking a look at my electric Dodge Dakota! Aside from the low-speed "neighborhood" EVs, which are by law limited to 25mph, a limited number of low-quality hobby builds, and exotic and overprices OEMs, there just aren't many electric vehicles to choose from. I built this truck to be very flexible, so that I could use it for the kind of work I needed it for, and if I sold it, that the buyer could modify it to optimize performance for them. Whether you need something for tooling around on the farm, commuting to the office, or running errands on the weekend, this truck will fit the bill nicely. First Impressions: From the outside, you'll notice the gloss black clearcoat that shines over the whole cab and bedsides of this truck. The appearance was kept mostly stock, with just a few add-ons, like the new Electric Red decals, front spoiler, and rear roll pan. Looking underneath, you can spot the alumium battery boxes installed under the bed. A Look Inside: Sit in the driver's seat, and you know right away you're not dealing with just any vehicle. A battery "fuel level" gauge replaces the original gas gauge in the instrument cluster, alongside the functional OEM speedometer and accessory battery gauge. A dual pillar pod mounted to the driver's side A-piller houses an ammeter (load meter) and voltmeter, to help you get the most out of each charge. Also inside are cupholders, a Sony AM/FM/CD Player with remote, and seat belts for three. The bench seat tilts forward for small item storage. Under The Hood: The OEM engine computer still controls the speedometer, but that's about its only role, since there are no longer any emmissions components to monitor. The 12v accessory battery has been replaced with a DC-DC converter, and a smaller battery helps even out loads like blinkers and windshield wipers. There is a Control Board on which sits the propulsion motor controller and associated hardware. Two thumbscrews remove from the control board to tilt it up for easy access to the motor. This build uses an original equipment style flywheel and clutch, unlike some less-safe hobby builds, which eliminate the clutch action, "locking" the motor to the transmission. Power steering and power brakes are also retained, increasing safety and drivability over electric conversions that are converted from power to manual steering and brakes. Some of the propulsion batteries are mounted in front, but the majority are mounted under the bed, giving this truck excellent weight distribution and a low center of gravity. In addition to better handling, mounting the batteries this way, instead of the "quick and dirty" method of just throwing them in the bed, also ensures it's virtually impossible for the batteries to enter the passenger area in an accident. They are also well protected from the elements, in rust-proof and light weight aluminum battery boxes. The rear batteries and propulsion pack charger are all easily accessed by removing a few bolts and lifting the truck bed at the cab, tiling it back along its rear hinge with the assistance of gas-charged springs. Going For A Drive: When you turn the key, you immediately hear the controller fans, steering pump, and vaccum pump. You buckle up and disengage the parking brake. Checking your mirrors, you put the Dakota in gear, and off you go! At first, you hear the controller hum as it shifts to a low frequency for better low speed operation. As you speed up and row through the gears, you observe the ammeter move in response to your foot on the accellerator pedal. Slide open the locking rear window, and cruise right past the gas station on your way to work or play! Specs & Features: DRIVETRAIN SUSPENSION & BRAKES · 9" dia. Advanced DC Motor · front brakes: disc; rear brakes: drum · Curtis 1231C on-road controller · front coil springs: OEM Sport model · OEM 5-speed manual trans w/ synthetic lube · front dampers: OEM Sport model · OEM rear differential w/ synthetic lube · upper ball joints new OEM · propulsion pack: 144v DC, 10kwh capacity · rear leaf springs: heavy duty; rear coilover springs:110 lb/in · propulsion pack wiring: 2/0 flex welding cable · rear dampers: aluminum body, adjustable height and jounce/rebound EXTERIOR INTERIOR · Gloss Black exterior w/ Electric Red decals · Grey interior w/ cloth seats · New front spoiler · EV-specific "fuel", volt, and amp gauges · New rear roll pan · accesory battery gauge · LED front marker, lic. plate, & tailgate brake lamps · Speedometer with odometer and trip meter · aluminum propulsion battery boxes under bed · integrated dual cupholders · aluminum propulsion battery trays in motor bay · bench seat · undercarriage splash/aero sheilds · Tool kit w/ extension cord & extra battery connector · bed tilt system with aluminum hinge and gas-charged lifts AMENITIES & SAFETY · Sony Xplode AM / FM / CD Player · driver's side airbag · seating for three · no passenger airbag (safe for child in passenger seat!) · intermittent wipers · all batteries mounted outside passenger area · electro-hydraulic power steering · dual high-volt contactors · electro-vacuum power brakes · high-pedal protection (prevents powering up with accel pedal pressed) · all-season tires on chrome steel wheels · full-size spare tire · Russco charger (needs only std. 110v AC 15A outlet) · 15' indoor/outdoor extension cord for charging · adjustable charging voltage and current · power inlet hidden behind OEM fuel door Final Thoughts: Imagine never having to change the air filter, oil, oil filter, PCV valve, or breather filter. Think about never throwing a rod, blowing out a piston ring, or the nightmare of a leaking head gasket. No being stranded on the roadside spewing steamy coolant, either, since the motor and controller are efficient enough to be air-cooled. No more wasting time stopping at a gas station, and no more paying enemies of our nation for a $3 gallon of gas to go the same distance just pennies of electricity can take you. With the hard work I've put into this truck, and as useful as I've found it to be, I really hope I can find a good home for it here on eBay. Below, you'll find numerous pictures. I know I would be wary of making any kind of purchase of this size sight-unseen, so I think it's only right that you see this thing inside and out before placing your bid. Also, please be aware that this is an electric vehicle, and is best owned and operated by someone familiar with the safety issues that go with it. It seems a project car is never really "done". While the mechanics and exterior are finished, There are still interior items that could use attention, such as the sagging headliner, and wiring the stereo back up. There is also no heat or A/C, but the HVAC fan works. Aside from that, it's a much newer truck than when I purchased it for conversion! This truck hasn't just been converted- it's practically been rebuilt! The truck passed MO State safety inspection in June 2011, and is currently tagged and insured. I've done my best to describe this item, however I am human and, subsequently, imperfect. I'm sure to leave out some detail, but a picture is worth a thousand words. Read the descriptions. Look at the images. Think about what you're bidding on before you bid. If you have any questions, just ask- I'm just an e-mail away. Keep in mind, this is a used vehicle, and I make no warranty, expressed or implied, but I will do my best to provide technical assistance after the sale via phone or e-mail. Along with the truck, you get a custom EV service manual and parts list, and numerous construction pictures. It should go without saying, but don't bid on this item if you don't actually want it. Don't bid on it if you can't afford it, or don't plan on paying for it. Please don't bid on this if you have low feedback, or if you have a significant amount of negative feedback. Ten percent deposit to be made withn 48 hr. of auction end, and remainder to be payable on receipt of item. Being an electric vehicle with limited range, you won't be driving this home. You can trailer it home, I can deliver within 250 mi. (of ZIP Code 63379) for $2 per mile, or you can arrange for shipping and I'll help the shipper load the vehicle. Thanks for viewing, and have a great day! Pictures: click to view full size) left front quarter front view, with new D O D G E and Ram's Head decals and new front facia right front quarter, with new Dakota Sport Electric and pentastar decals passenger side. Bed is 6.5' standard length right rear quarter, with new fiberglass roll pan rear view, with new D O D G E on tailgate left rear quarter driver side view, with A/C electrical symbol over fuel door gauge pod with voltmeter and ammeter driver side interior passenger side interior room for a little storage behind the bench seat chrome-clad steel 15" wheels with all season radials new graphics new graphics new graphics and Ram's Head emblem aggressive stance bed tilts up for easy access to batteries fuel door, with "A/C Electricity" graphic fuel door open- receptacle accepts any standard extension cord Construction Pictures: ready to begin the conversion 2.5L i4 engine- looks crowded in there! Nice speakers, but I think we can get rid of that quart of oil soon What do we do about that big gas gauge? starting off easy, we replace the ugly steel hood latch bracket with an aluminum one an aluminum battery hold-down replaces the stock steel bracket on the accessory battery These steel frame pieces are heavy and ugly... ...let's get some structural aluminum in there, like a race car would have! Uh, hey, do we still need this piece?!? ...no, but let's keep the transmission! meanwhile, the rear battery box is completed and work on the center battery boxes begins 12v vacuum pump and switch are now installed- we have power brakes! more racecar-quality parts, with stainless steel power steering lines power steering plumbing is complete, and the truck has power steering! aluminum-framed fiberglass control board starts getting accessorized billet aluminum crankshaft adapter helps make use of the OEM flywheel & clutch dust shield, flywheel, and clutch now attached to DC propulsion motor propulsion motor lowered into engine bay (now called a motor bay?) motor is right at home, attached to frame with strong aluminum mounts