1990 Mazda MX-5 Miata

Convertible

1.6L 4 Cylinder Gasoline Fuel

Manual

JM1NA3515L0115073

Clear

Rear Wheel Drive

Gasoline

Bucket Seats

Hello and thanks for viewing my auction! Please do not hesitate to ask me any questions you may have, I encourage you to inform yourself. After much consideration I have decided to auction my 1990 Mazda Miata; I have owned this car since 1995. Almost nothing is stock or original on my car anymore, as many parts have been replaced and upgraded for increased performance. Some of these mods include: - New "long-nose" style 1.6L long block ( original one was seized @ 100,000 miles by the clowns at Quicklube , now thankfully out of business... :^P ) installed by a Mazda Dealer in 1997. - Dealer Alternative/BEGI Flyin' Miata II turbocharger system running 15psi of boost with throttle-mounted BOV and custom cold air induction. - 18"x8"x3" front-mounted intercooler and throttle-mounted blow-off valve. - Flyin' Miata 1.8L billet aluminum flywheel with heavy-duty 1.8L kevlar clutch to rev freely and eliminate *any* slip. Valvoline SynPower DOT 4 synthetic fluid is used, and a Racing Beat braided-stainless/teflon clutch hose improves overall clutch feel. - Flyin' Miata / Link Electrosystems programmable ECU with MAP sensor, knock control, boost control, and air-temperature compensation as well as programming keypad and computer interface for my laptop ( for detailed datalogging / tuning ). Thanks to Ray Ayala, the best software version for this great ECU allow greater power and smoothness than ever before, with greatly improved idling and driveability... Hats off to Ray! - RC Engineering 440 cc/min disk-type fuel injectors, balanced and blue-printed for maximum fuel delivery, control and consistency. - Flyin' Miata stainless steel hi-flow catalytic converter and turbo exhaust system. - Bosch heated O2 sensor for greater feedback loop accuracy. - Flyin' Miata aluminum "race" radiator with huge core and massive coolant capactity, "capped off" by 16psi radiator cap. A custom two-pass turbo water cooler is mounted behind the passenger-side turn signal intake scoop to reduce thermal stress added to the system by the turbo itself, since it utilizes a water-cooled center section. Ultra tough ( and awesomely expensive ) silicone hose routes all the water around the engine bay; the heat kills regular hose pretty quickly, and sudden water line failure is always a bad thing! The rad is sealed off with rubber weatherstripping and a custom air dam I made out of aluminum. - Moss Motors Oil cooler / remote oil filter mount. Oil cooler mounted in passenger-side wheel well on custom brackets, in front of air scoop in Mazda air dam. I use only Castrol Syntec full-synthetic engine oil; I have had excellent results with the 5W-50 viscosity. As an example of Syntec's ability to resist burning/coking, I observed a small amount of Syntec I accidentally spilled on the turbine housing of the turbo during an oil change... the oil drip remained for weeks, until I physically removed it during an engine-compartment cleanup for a show! I heartily back up Syntec's ability to resist extreme heat! - Although they are controversial, I use SplitFire spark plugs. The high boost dictated I drop the gap from the stock .44 to .29! Increased dwell-angle software in the ECU helps keep the fires burning efficiently with no missing. I use NAPA lifetime black silicone spark plug wires; they are easily replaced ( for free ) every year. - Brain Storm Product's "Europa" fixed-headlight system... no more "barn-doors," no more leaving the lights up to show off your low-profile kit, no more aerodynamic drag, no more motors, hinges, etc. and no more ( yikes! ) ~50lbs. of dead weight on my front end! I heartily endorse it. Brainstorm has ceased production of this awesome headlight kit, but I was able to upgrade the headlight housings with carbon fiber units manufactured by AAC. The chassis itself has been fortified with Racing Beat front subframe brace, Flyin Miata/Canon rear subframe brace, a BSP rear cockpit brace, a Flyin' Miata strut tower brace and a Hard Dog Hard Core 4-point rollbar. Also installed are the Flyin' Miata Butterfly Brace and Frame Rail Reinforcement kits, all made of stainless steel. There is absolutely no chassis flex on this car; when jacking up a wheel, the entire side of the car goes up! The car has a set of BF Goodrich G-Force tires mounted to Ray's Engineering/Volk Racing TE-37 15" rims ( these rims only weigh 8 lbs each! ). I even have the forged alloy lugnuts installed, as well as a set of the golden alloy hubcaps. A set of fully adjustable Koni Yellow shocks wound with Tokico HP springs soak up the bumps and lower the car 1" overall, while Jackson Racing swaybars, Racing Beat polyurethane-bushed end links and a full set of polyurethane suspension bushings keep things level in the turns ( and should never require replacement, either! ). The front swaybar and its mountings are further bolstered by a Racing Beat swaybar bracing kit. The car also benefits from a yearly computerized 4-wheel alignment done with custom specs to maximize front caster and high-speed handling. This car has generated a GTechPro average lateral 1.1G with this setup, and rides quite admirably smooth as well! Additionally, a set of Flyin Miata Rear Shock Mounts is installed in order to provide adequate rear suspension travel, greatly aiding ride quality and performance. The grip and confidence that is generated by this setup, coupled with the power, allows me to go through turns without even using the brakes... this really torques off a lot of Hot Rods that try to stay on my tail in the twisties, great fun! When I used to AutoCross, a set of 15x6.5" TE-37s shod with Khumho V700 Victoracers were utilized. The race tires are so sticky I was able to shave ~2 seconds off my times. The car remained undefeated in its class ( E-mod ) at the local area AutoX club for the two years I raced there ( 2000 & 2001 ). If you haven't tried AutoX yet, please do. It is tremendously fun and can be as competitive or as laid back a sport as you like, all without spending a ton of money to race. The rear end has been upgraded to a late '95+ Torsen II limited-slip differential with 4.10:1 gears. Coupled with the better wheels and tires, the car launches very well and hard, with very little tire-spin. Of course, RedLine differential oil is utilized for long life, reduced wear, and maximum performance. The standard 5-speed transmission is totally stock, except for a MazdaSpeed short-shifter. Mazda wisely chose the Miata transmission from its existing diesel delivery-truck line! It does benefit from RedLine MTL lubrication though, to hedge my bets against failure and hard use with the double-torque increase from the turbo system. To slow down, I've upgraded the front brakes to The Dealer Alternative's FM Big Brake Kit; It uses 11" PowerSlot slotted, cadmium-plated rotors and Wilwood Dynalite fixed, four-piston calipers with Wilwood PolyMatrixD sport pads, all held in place by custom billet aluminum, powder-coated caliper brackets. 94+ up-sized Brembo slotted rotors with stock pads and calipers outfit the rear, and Goodridge braided-stainless steel/teflon brake lines adorn all four corners ( the brake pedal is very firm ). Pedal feel is very good and fade-free, even after many repeated high-speed stops... like hitting a brick wall! High quality Valvoline SynPower synthetic DOT-4 brake fluid helps keep the braking smooth, predictable and firm, and defends against excessive moisture absorption. Did I mention that the brake pedal is firm? ;^) For comfort, my car still retains the factory leather-wrapped steering wheel. An AutoMeter Sport-Comp boost gauge keeps tabs on manifold pressure and vaccuum in its custom cup on the Driver's side A-Pillar. I've reupholstered the stock seats with factory-style leather covers, inflatable lumbar supports and Infinty Kappa headrest speakers. Gone are the original equipment seat belts in favor of G-Force G-5500 5-point harnesses with pads- hoIds you in real good around those turns! I replaced the entire original, worn-out factory carpet with a black Moss Motors 1.6L carpet kit and BSP plush floor-mats with embroidered red Miata script. The gearshift boot, handbrake boot and armrest pad are also leather now, and the shift knob and handbrake handle are VooDoo textured-black items; the shift knob itself has the Miata shift-pattern etched on top in white. A Moss Carbon-Fiber dash kit adds a high-tech look to the interior. The original stereo was replaced with a Blaupunkt London MP37 AM/FM/CD/MP3-FrontAuxInpout unit, and the stock 5" door speakers were upgraded to Infinity Kappa 6" 2-way speakers. Foam surrounds will help keep them alive! A "Big Red Button" kit from Brandon McComber starts the car at a push of the button; a simple, slick, 15-minute mod that replaces the cigarette lighter wit a big red push-button. A cleverly-constructed BSP lighted rear-view mirror sheds ample, much-needed light at night, as does a custom light installed in the glove box. The trunk has a BSP plush trunk-carpet kit with embroidered red Miata script, a Moss electric lid-lock release kit, a Moss trunk lid lift kit and a Moss trunk-light kit. An Optima Yello Top battery juices it all, and on top of being a good fit it is so powerful it turns the engine over faster than any other battery I have ever used. The paint is brand new, better-than-original PPG Global base coat with urethane clear coat. Two custom, 6" deep blue metallic stripes adorn her from stem to stern, and really help keep the heads turning. Another little attention-grabber ( whose primary purpose of safety ) is the chrome B-C fire extinguisher mounted within driver's reach on the harness bar of the rollbar... some guys have asked if I have nitrous, although it really is much smaller than the typical laughing-gas bottle! A new top was professionally installed last year and is as new. I kept the plastic zipper-out rear window option for weight savings and compatibility with the massive rollbar. As far as performance goes, the car dyno'd 212.9 HP and 181.4 torque at ACS Racing in Hanover, MA in 2000. This past year, A Dyno run at New England Dyno and Tuning showed 219.9 HP and nearly 200 ft/lbs torque! Guess the new FM ECU software really does work, eh? Surprisingly, that isn't too far from my measured ( and optimistic ) GTech Pro number of 220.4 HP average; remember, this is at the rear wheels, not flywheel... an amazing power-to-weight ratio, since I had the car weighed at a certified scale and it's only 2,200 lbs with me in it! This equates to unreal, V-8 crushing acceleration, and the fun, great-handling feel of the original setup remains. It's just faster! The dyno graph is below, check it out. All this from only 1.6 liters! This car has been my daily driver since the summer of 1995, when I bought her used with ~50,000 miles on the clock. I have had many cars in my relatively short time as a licensed driver, but this car is my favorite of them all. Another great thing about the Miata is its easy maintenance and bullet-proof reliability. I have done all of the work on this car myself, from the oil changes to the turbo installation. Anybody with a modest, "entusiast's" tool kit would be able to do the same, I'm convinced. I very firmly believe this, myself being a Federally Certified Diesel/Truck/Automotive Technician. Despite what you may have heard, this car is fairly practical for a two-seat sports car; I use it to commute to work, get groceries, and sometimes even take a drive in the mountains with my lovely and beautiful Wife Barbara. I used to AutoX every month during the warm season, and have currently "retired" after making #1 for 2000 & 2001 in NYR SCCA EMod here in my locality; I want more time for more Family-oriented and God-oriented activities. It does all this as well as blow away 5.0 Mustangs, VTEC Hondas, and slow-moving traffic on the two-lane highways when I'm late for work. Smooth and powerful on the Interstate; a killer at the Stop-Light Grand Prix, it never fails to bring a wild, ear-to-ear grin every time I stomp on the loud pedal. As soon as the temperatures climb above 50, the top is almost always down. You will not be disappointed if you are the lucky one to win this auction! I reserve the right to end this auction early as the car is for sale locally; if you would like to come inspect the car, please reach out to me and we will make it happen. I can and will assist with any aspect of the car purchase process, including picking you up at Stewart Airport in Newburgh, NY if you choose to fly in and driving home. I have a clear title in hand and have an impressive amount of documentation, manuals and receipts that the new Owner will find very useful. I will expect a deposit of $1,000.00 at the close of the auction, and the balance in the space of one week. PayPal can be used, but any fee that PayPal hits me for will be added to the final selling price. Cash, Certified Check, or personal check are also acceptable although the funds must clear the bank before the title is signed over. Bid with confidence, I am an honest ebay member that has 100% feedback spanning years as both buyer and seller, and I know how to treat people right. If you have any questions at all, please do not hesitate to email me and I will get back to you ASAP; if you would like to speak with me or desire additional pics, etc., please just ask.