1996 BMW 3-Series

328i Convertible

2.8L Straight 6 Cylinder Gasoline Fuel

Automatic

WBABK8324TET90118

Rear Wheel Drive

Gasoline

1996 BMW 328iC 156k Original Miles 4 Speed Automatic Transmission 2 Door Convertible Hello Everyone, Up for sale is a 96 BMW 328iC. I bought this car a few months ago with light front end damage. I bought it mainly because I was parting another black E36 and had the front end parts it needed in the correct color. I put a driver side fender, hood, and grill assembly (upgraded 98 style) on the car, along with a driver side headlight/turn signal, a radiator, and a few plastic pieces. The repairs literally only took me 4-5 hours in my garage - it didn't need any framework. Here are a few of the photos of the car when I bought it - you can see how light the damage was. Please read on - the car no longer looks like this! As you can see, it wasn't hurt hardly at all, but it's also not worth a lot - so the damage on it was enough to total the car. Fortunately, I was able to repair the car with minimal effort and parts, and can offer it at a great deal for you! I haven't driven the car more than a few miles, but enough to determine the accident damage is fully repaired. However, the car is 15 years old with 156k miles and has other issues related to age/mileage. I am not a mechanic and make no claims that this is a comprehensive list, though I provide what I am aware of. Any serious buyer is welcome to come look at the car in person, or have it inspected by an independent shop at your own cost. The dashboard has 4 lights on currently. The check engine light, ABS light, replace brake pads light, and SRS/Airbag Light. I ran a check on the CEL and it returned a code of "Crankshaft position sensor". I'm not sure on the ABS light, though I did notice a vibration, and would guess that one or both of the front wheel bearings may need replaced. This could be a cause of the ABS light. Obviously, the brake pad light is indicating that it may need new pads (or a new pad sensor). I attempted to diagnose the SRS light, but the scanner wouldn't connect to the bus. My instruction manual says it's likely due to the ABS light causing a conflict, so that may need repaired before it can be properly diagnosed. The airbags did not deploy on this vehicle. In my experience, the airbag light is most often due to the passenger seatbelt receptacle, and can often be fixed by simply unplugging the harness a few times to scratch up the connectors (very light corrosion films will vary the ohm reading, causing a fault). A SRS scanner is required to read and clear the codes on this model. Mechanically, the car starts up nicely. It idles very low, which causes a rough idle. If you press the gas pedal down and hold it to a reasonable 800-1000rpm, the engine runs smoothly. I am told the crankshaft position sensor may be causing this low idle. When cold, it requires a few revs to keep it from stalling. Once warmed up, the engine will idle by itself. I have driven the car 5-10 miles and it drives nicely. The engine and transmission operate as expected. The interior is in nice overall condition. Seats are better than most, and this one is black (much nicer than the thousands of tan interiors out there). The driver door panel is junk, I'd replace it if it were mine, but it will work until one can be found (or someone could fix and recover this one; someone has used screws/rivets to repair it, it's an ugly repair). The convertible top is in nice shape, no rips, holes, or tears. The rear window appears to have been replaced as it's not a factory window. It looks nice though (you can see through it, unlike many out there) and it seals up tight. The convertible top is not functioning. You can hear the motors attempt to do it, so I suspect it's the main top motor. If it were my car, I'd convert the top to a manual assembly. I can have this done locally for $299 if you want it done, then you'd never have to worry about the top not functioning again. There is an aftermarket keyless entry system installed, a nice option to have! Wheels are overall nice condition, tires are nearing replacement, but could likely be driven through the summer before needing replaced. As they are 15", they should be fairly inexpensive. I can help source some used ones at a very cheap price for any interested buyer. The odometer display is dim and hard to read. It needs new bulbs and can be read with ease in direct sunlight, or with aid of a flashlight. The exterior of this car is mixed. It's a good looking car from a glance, or a distance. However, there are quite a few door dings on the doors...and the hood I used has a lot of rock chips. Still, in this price range, it's much better than most of the cars I've seen. I am admittedly very picky and like my cars (even 10+ years old) to look like they're only 2-3 years old. This one looks like a 10-15 year old BMW...so as long as your expectations are realistic, you'll probably be happy. If you're uncertain about any aspect of this car, please come view it, or have someone else take a look at it for you BEFORE BIDDING. Bids are binding, and if you win the bid, you have bought the car. I don't have time for games, eBay charges me $125 the moment the auction closes with a buyer (in addition to the fees I paid to list the auction). This vehicle has a GA salvage title. Please do your own research regarding what is required to title and/or register this vehicle in your state before bidding. GA buyers will need to have it inspected before putting it back on the road, and I think the airbag light must be out before they'll pass the inspection. SC will title/register the vehicle with no inspections (inspections are optional). Other states will have state-specific laws regarding registration of salvage vehicles. Please note - All thumbnail images can be expanded to hi-res by clicking on the image. Actual photos of the car on 5/23/2011 That should about cover it. I have tried my best to be as upfront and honest as possible in this listing. Please email me if you have any questions. I worked with insurance salvage as a career for about 8 years full time, but have moved on and am currently pursuing a doctorate in pharmacy full time. I bought this car mainly to use the parts I had laying around...profit is very thin on this one (actually opening price is at a loss, but I will honor final bid regardless of price). Shipping Details. I have sold dozens (maybe even a hundred???) of cars on eBay, and have dealt with lots of shipping companies. I would be happy to help arrange this for any potential buyer, though payment and final responsibility for this rests in the hands of the buyer. In my experience, it can be done for as little as $300-400 if you're not very far away (my 99 M3 was delivered from MD to SC for $400), and up to $800-100 if you're on the other coast. The car starts, runs, and drives, and has no detriments that will keep it from being shipped with no accomodations. Perhaps you'd like to come pick it up and trailer it home. That's awesome. Bring your own trailer, or rent a Uhaul. Or maybe you'd like to drive it home. On this note, I will caution a few things. First, you'll definitely want to put insurance on it before attempting to drive it on a public road. Second, check your laws for your state on what you need to transport a vehicle into your state. They may issue a temporary tag on a bill or sale, or you may just need to have a title or bill of sale in the car. These details are all the responsibility of the buyer. Payment details. Sales through eBay will require a $500 paypal deposit to be made either immediately or within 48 hours (depends on a few factors, eBay will let you know if immediate is required). Final balance to be paid either in cash, USPS money orders, or a bank check drawn on a bank that I can physically walk into in the Atlanta area. I will not release the car or title on bank checks until I walk into the bank and receive cash (remember this if you plan on coming evenings or weekends). I know it's an inconvenience, but unfortunately, it's a necessity as there are scammers everywhere producing counterfeit bank checks. I've been on eBay for 13 years, I've seen it all - of course, you get the benefit of dealing with someone that's been honest on eBay for 13 years and has plenty of feedback to prove it! Please email me with any questions. Good luck and thanks for looking.