1968 Ford Mustang

coupe Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Manual

8F01C102611

Clear

Gasoline

I bought the car because the body is in such good shape. But, the front frame and floor pans were eat up with rust. Since I am a fabricator by trade and have years of experience working in a chassis shop I decided to build my own chassis. The rear frame rails are in good shape. So, I built a frame using 2x3 box tubing and tied it into the rear frame rails. The frame is designed for maximum ground clearance while still allowing the car to have an aggressive stance. It uses a Chris Alston (Chassis Works) front suspension. http://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/DataSheets/7160_DS_WEB.pdf It uses their X-member, tubular upper and lower control arms, spindles, and rack and pinion which is made to a specific width to match the x- member so all the front end geometry is correct. The frame has a large drive shaft loop and 4in I.D. exhaust ports for large diameter exhaust and the body is permanently attached to the frame keeping it a unibody. The rear suspension is a triangulated 4-link designed using cad to ensure proper geometry. It uses 1 1/4in. .095 chrome-moly 4-link bars and stainless steel rod ends with urethane bushings. All the brackets and tabs on the whole car were cut on a flowjet. The rearend housing is a big 9in. Out of a truck. It has been narrowed and the new ends are just tacked on. I can fully weld them if you prefer since I have access to a rearend welding fixture. Both front and rear suspensions use either coilovers or shockwave airbags. The fire wall has been completely cut out and replaced with a piece of 16 gauge sheet metal. There is a triangulated frame behind the firewall for extra strength and to also provide a mounting point for the Wilwood reverse mount master cylinder clutch and brake pedal assembly(which I already have). That way there is nothing mounted on the firewall for a clean look. The engine is a 4.6 DOHC from a mark8. It ran fine when I removed it but has 180k miles on it. I was either going to rebuild it or just replace it with a less used one. The trans is a T-5 that needs syncros or replaced. The Quicktime bell housing will also accept a Tremec 5speed. Also, the motor mount and Quicktime bell housing will work with any 4.6 engine. But, since I had to make the headers they will only work with a DOHC motor. The flanges for the headers were cut on a flowjet and surface ground. The tubes are 1 3/4in. With a 3in collector. The exhaust is attached to the headers using stainless steel V-band clamps. Also, the frame is designed so none of the exhaust is hanging below the frame. The wheels are BBS RK 18x8.5 with NITTO 555’s. WHAT’S LEFT TO DO. Sheetmetal floor needs to be fabbed. Also, the radiator support is not permanently installed which means the inner fenders and hood hinge mounts need to be made also. That is really all the fab work left. There is some welding left to do. I would say it is 80 to 85% welded. 90% of the welding has been tig welded and 10% mig welded. I do not have the interior because I was going to make my own. But, you could still use the factory interior with some slight modifications to the bottom of the rear seat. The dash has been cut out but I do still have it. So, it can be reinstalled. I do have all the glass and window crank mechanism. I do have the radiator it is a Be-Cool aluminium 3in thick core. Parts that need to be purchased: coilovers F&R, brakes F&R, hood may need to be replaced, grill, F&R valance panels, paint, interior, gas tank, driveshaft, and a few other misc. items. I have close to 10K in parts, materials, and machining. That’s not counting all my time fabricating and designing. I have a ton of pictures I can email if interested. If you have any questions please call me at 865-256-1969. Please no calls after 10:00 pm Eastern time. SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY!!!