1966 Ford Mustang

Coupe

6 - Cyl.

Automatic

6F07T280318

Gasoline

Please look at all the pictures below. After the pictures there is a complete description of the condition of the car. Body Condition: When looking from the underside of the car, I had always suspected that the floors were in good shape, but last year I pulled out the carpet to be sure. There was a very small area of rust on each front floor pan. I cut out the small areas of rust and welded in new metal. I painted the new metal and the complete inside of the floor pan with POR 15. Then I sealed the welds for extra protection with seam sealer on the inside of the floorpan and on the underside of the floorpan. Then on the underside, I sprayed the two spots with 3M undercoating spray. Overall, I think the floor panels are in fantastic condition. The body panels appear to be straight. Apparently the car has been repainted in the past. There are a few places that have rust starting to pop through. I have had the car for about two years now and no new ones have popped up, so I would guess that these are the only spots that will need repaired. There are a few low spots in the paint where the person who prepped the car for paint didn't do a very good job of block sanding, and there are a few spots where the paint has chipped off. The paint isn't real shiny. The trunk has some surface rust in some of the seams. The trunk seal is hard and brittle and should be replaced. The previous owner installed a new gas tank. The doors all shut fine and the windows and door locks all work. I think the door seals should be replaced because water comes in at the tops when I take the car through the car wash. The chrome and trim is not perfect, but is in pretty good condition. It is common for the cowl to rust out and cause water to leak into the inside of the car. I have not seen any water coming into the car from the cowl area when I have driven the car in the rain and when I have driven the car through the car wash. I replaced both rear tail light buckets, lenses, and bezels this spring. Drive Train Condition: Although I haven't driven the car much since I have owned it, I haven't had any engine or transmission problems. The engine idles rough and when it is warmed up the oil pressure goes all the way to zero when at idle. I don't know if there is a problem with the engine or if the oil pressure is incorrect. I don't hear any knocking when the pressure reads zero. If the buy-it-now option is utilized, I will include an extra assembled shortblock from a different 66 Mustang. The shortblock has been bored out and has new pistons installed. The extra shortblock doesn't have a cam. The transmission leaves some fluid on the floor when I leave it parked for a while. I replaced the pan gasket and put new fluid in it and it seems to leak worse now. It shifts fine. If the buy-it-now option is utilized, I will include an extra transmission with the car. The transmission is from a different 66 6 cylinder Mustang. When I purchased this transmission, the previous owner said it worked fine, but I can't verify that it does. I have driven this car in city traffic and on the highway without problems. The engine hasn't overheated under any conditions. The tires and wheels are in great shape and have plenty of tread. I have 3 or 4 standard wheels and three wheelcovers that go with the car in addition to the wheels that are showing in the pictures. I replaced the front brakes a while back... the back brakes looked good. I also replaced the single bowl master cylinder with a dual one for safety reasons. The emergency brake works. I have only driven this car for short distances and cannot guarantee that it can be driven to your home. But like I said before, it hasn't given me any problems when I did drive it. Accessories Condition: I have replaced the power steering pump with a rebuilt pump. The new pump has a different dipstick tube than what is supposed to be on an AC car, but that doesn't affect the functionality of it. While I was at it, I went ahead and replaced all the power steering hoses and re-sealed the power cylinder. I also rebuilt the control valve. There are no leaks in the power steering that I know of. I thought that the old power hungry AC compressor was causing the engine vibration, so I took it off. Since the previous owner told me that the AC worked, my plan was to replace it with a new compressor that doesn't put as much of a strain on the engine. I can hear the heater fan running, but I don't feel any air coming out from the defroster vents. The left turn signal and brake light doesn't work all the time. I am pretty sure the problem is in the turn signal switch in the steering column and I have a new switch that comes with the car. Interior Condition: Last summer I replaced the front seat upholstery and they look great.. The back seat is in good shape and doesn't have any rips or tears. The carpet was replaced last summer also. The dash pad is in very good shape and doesn't bow up on the ends like many that I have seen. There are no cracks that I have noticed. The headliner is not torn or damaged and looks great. The original steering wheel was cracked badly so I put a new one on last winter. The original radio was removed by a previous owner and replaced with an AM/FM/Cassette player. It is nothing spectacular. I put new front door panels and armrests in the car a few years ago. They look great. All dash gauges and lights work properly, but the dash lights are very dim. Inspection: I have tried to describe the car as good as I can, but this is not a car that I have driven much and I don't know all the details about it. I have no way of knowing if the odometer has rolled over. The point I am trying to make is that if there is any way possible, please come out and check the car for yourself in case there is something that I missed. If you can't, then please ask as many questions as you can.