1966 Chevrolet Impala

Super Sport Coupe

8 cylinder

Manual

Clear

Gasoline

Sold to highest bidder is one 1966 Chevrolet Impala Super Sport Hardtop. A true 16837 factory 4 speed Chevy SS with 12 bolt rear end. Originally a 327 4 speed car with NO power options. Only option installed is bumper guards. Another car I hate to part with, but I've reached a mediation agreement in my fraudclosure case and I am selling off autos and items to pay off the house. Bought this SS in 2005. It was not running (obviously not the original 327) and had no seats due to having no floors left. The trunk was also rotted and fuel tank was all holes. However it did have good main floor braces and a very nice frame for it's age. There was a four speed in it and a Hurst Competition Plus shifter with no handle. The tags looked legit and matched the title. All glass present, and the 12 bolt looked to be correct. I like installing new floors for some odd reason, so the purchase was made. This SS has come a long way since then. 3970010 indicated it was a 350 with this code on the block ID: V0422TYZ. That decodes to a 1975 LS9 165hp 4 bolt main C10 to 2500 truck according to nastyz28.com. It looked like the oil pan and timing cover was off like it got a new timing chain some time back. Pressure washed the engine, installed a Holley carb, HEI distributor with brass terminal cap and rotor, AC Delco spark plugs, ignition cables and changed the oil/filter to get the 350 running. The engine runs fine and has driven dependably for me for 7 summers now and the oil/filter has been changed a total of 9 times, latest oil/filter change on 12/14/12. Transmission is a Saginaw 4 speed. Seems to be from the same truck as engine ID? The clutch is an 11 inch, cars usually have a 9 inch clutch. Does not appear to be the original 4 speed. It leaked as soon as it was filled, so a bearing kit for it was ordered so it's completely re-sealed and has all new bearings. Had a Hurst Indy handle available, so it became this SS' shifter handle. The shifter ball belonged to a friend and I was specifically told NOT to include it with this sale, as it has sentimental value to him. It's the small sized hole, any knobs I have are large hole (read: handle needs ball). Pulling the 12 bolt's differential cover to change the fluid, found 3 broken teeth on the ring gear in a row! The stock gear was 333, a special order expensive item from Summit. Closest set in stock was a 355 gear for $169, wanted to be able to freeway cruise this car. The axles are large diameter as this differential is a '63 casting. Non-posi, but it WILL lay down posi marks on a straight launch. Installed Lakewood racing universals into the driveshaft front and rear. Rebuilt the wheel cylinders, replaced brakes at all four wheels and replaced a collapsed left flex hose. Cleaned and repacked the front bearings. Master always worked fine, never messed with it. New brake lines, new fuel line. The front end is tight, takes grease fine and the only thing I've had to change was the strut rod bushings. Could use new stabilizer links and shocks all the way around. Removed the remnants of the main, under seat and trunk floors and cleaned any exposed frame areas with a needle scaler as well as the floor channel braces. Then applied 2 coats of Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Top coated with 2 or more coats of Rustoleum satin black. Floor panels and braces came from Dynacorn, because they make replacement panels just like the factory floors, from seam to seam. Here is the list: 1) Left main floor, 2) Right main floor, 3) Under back seat floor, 4) 3-piece trunk floor (which extends to under the rear bumper as would the OEM floor) 5) Left trunk body mount brace (behind the rear wheel) 6) Right trunk body mount brace (behind the rear wheel) 7) Both fuel tank braces (left and right the same) 8) Left trunk floor to quarter drop 9) Right trunk floor to quarter drop. After the trunk floor work this SS got a new fuel tank, new fuel sending unit and new fuel line. Haven't done a lot of body work on the car since welding is my forte. Have a panel for the bottom of rear glass to trunk lip, not installed but comes with this SS. Did hang a new left quarter with an aftermarket quarter skin made in Akron Ohio by Schott Panels. Have a left Impala fender allegedly from Texas that has a solid bottom and brace, but is front hit and pounded out. Was planning to use the lower part and section the fender just under the Super Sport chrome on the SS. The fender comes with this SS. Doors are solid, complete with dings and dents. The headers that came with the car when purchased are connected to dual 2.5 inch 14 guage aluminized exhaust pipes, no collectors, no gaskets (read: hand torque only) and connect to dual Flowmaster knock-off welded construction copy mufflers (sounds good). The pipes are tucked up real close to the floor as seen in the pics. The alternator is what came with the SS, it charges fine and the bearing makes noise. The battery is holds charge well and always starts the car. The radiator is what came with the SS and it has some corrosion on one end bottom as pictured. Holds coolant well, but I have seen drips hanging/wetness on the bottom radiator tank however haven't had to add any coolant with any regularity. Most I've ever added was a quart to the overflow bottle the day after a long freeway trip. Interior is stock and daily driver quality at best and that's stretching it pretty far. There is no carpeting, no padding nor headliner. The bucket seats are out of some kind of Mercedes. No clue what model. They are comfortable and the mounts actually line up to properly fasten them to the floor braces as the underside pictures show. Found a correct rear seat back and bottom on eBay several years ago and won the bid at $110. This SS was driven 308 miles one way to pick the seats up. The seller of the seat was amazed I trusted this old car to drive over 300 miles one way and above all with no cell phone. I told him the new (at that time) ring gear had a 500 mile break-in and I figured this trip was perfect since round trip was 616 miles. Plus, I told him I trust my work. The wipers wipe, the heater throws heat, the lights all work, the signals work, the gas gauge works and I added a 3 gauge cluster with temperature, oil pressure and amperes which all work and light up with the dash lighting so it can be dimmed. The oil pressure has a tee on it as well so the oil idiot light also works. The generator light has always stayed on when running, but it charges fine so it never bothered me. I added a battery brace and an overflow from a Chevy van so the local dragway would OK it to race. Runs in the low 15's to high 14's, not bad for a stock truck engine, this SS can get out of it's own way. Tires are all mounted on old school U.S.A. made aluminum slotted ET's, only the two rear have center caps (ET caps clips die easily). The front tires are Viper P235-60-14 with nice tread, the rear tires are H60-14 Uniroyals from the early 1970's, hard as rocks, and are pretty much done. Been keeping only 18 PSI in them, they tend to slowly leak down and need re-aired every couple of weeks. They peel out easily because they are like an old hardened pencil erasers! Yes the body is ugly and if you want a restored Impala SS you have to babysit, you will have more finish welding work before you could paint this properly. The inner wheel housings, the large holes in the bottoms of both fenders and the toe plates (from firewall to the first floor seem) are areas that need attention for a restoration. Deck lid is beyond fixing since it's dented and rusted out. This is NOT a been sitting in a field car that needs everything with an asking price of $1700. Right now it's a fun rat rod that drives 100 percent and it's been an enjoyable time each time I take this SS out for a ride. I will miss this rat rod SS dearly as I have a LOT of time in this Super Sport but I am trying to raise the funds to pay off the house and end my fraudclosure nightmare already. Please consider bidding so I can keep the house and yes, you can drive this SS home if you are within a few states' distance from Ohio. I might suggest bringing a pair of mounted tires for the rear if you'd want to go any long time distance to be safe. Previewers welcome to see this SS in person, please contact me through eBay. Likewise, if I failed to address something that is important to you, please contact me through eBay. No joy rides. No tire kickers without funds. No end auction early requests. No reserve, high bidder wins just like a real auction. No deposit. No return. No warranty on used vehicles. No overpay and ship overseas money order/check scams.