1952 Chevrolet Bel Air/150/210

Sedan

216

Manual

Clear

1952 Chevy Two Door I've been toying around with the idea of selling my 52 Chevy. I bought it in Oct 2011 and have spent a fair amount of money and time on it making it a good overall driver. While I like the car, I'd rather have a 53 or 54 Hardtop which is why I'd like to go ahead and sell this car before I start getting real deep into it. A little about the car: I purchased it from a guy in Pittsburg, KS, Ernie. He had owned it for about a year. He had traded an old mustang and some other items for it with a guy in his local car club, David. I had also met the previous owner. David had picked it up in Pittsburg probably another year earlier. Originally it was fixed up by a guy quite a while ago whose kid drove it to Pittsburg to go to Pitt State. The kid ended up selling it before he left school. I don't know who owned it between the kid and David but I was told it had been in Pittsburg for a fair amount of time. Ernie and David had done quite a bit to the car before I got it. David had the seats professionally upholstered, installed a new headliner, had the head rebuilt, and installed some panels in the trunk and interior toe kicks. These are just black faced cardboard which could use some vinyl covering. David had also recovered the front door and rear passenger panels with some black vinyl, looks ok but not professional. I was getting ready to take it into a local shop to have the panels done with pleating like the seats for $250. David also redid all the brakes and installed all new rubber flex lines. I don't think Ernie did a whole lot other than install new carpet. Since I've owned it I have converted it to 12v. I made sure everything was converted correctly, you can see a thread I wrote up on this here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=689017 I also installed a HEI distributor (no more points), new plug wiring, new plugs, and a plug wire loom. I wrote this up in a thread too which you can see here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=679518 I pulled, completely disassembled, and rebuilt the front end. Many of the components were in good shape but I replace those that needed replacing. I Installed new king pins and added Fatman Dropped Uprights and Steering Arms to lower the front end. All components were cleaned, wire wheeled, rust treated, primed, and painted. I also lowered the rear with 3 in. lowering blocks. I also split the manifold and ran duel exhaust with Smithy's glasspacks. You can see this here along with a video of the car running: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=757471 There's almost too much to describe on this car. Here's an overall a list of what's been done: Carpet Headliner and windlace. Front and rear seats professionally upholstered. Rebuilt head All brakes done w/ new flex lines. 12v conversion Rockford Fosgate CD player with two 6x9 Rockford Fosgate speakers HEI Distributor Rebuilt front end Front lowered, Fatman dropped uprights and steering arms Rear lowered, 3 in. blocks New rocker trim Added grill teeth Stock split manifold, dual exhaust, Smithy's glasspacks This car is a great driver. It drives tight and stops good. You really have to drive it to appreciate it. No vibrations, no shimmy, no excessive rattles, you won't have any complaints. With the way it's geared, 55ish is its top end. I have purchased most of the parts to convert it to an open drive line. I have a T5, rear end, driveshaft (will need fitting), Hotrod works adapter plate, and other misc parts, all of which is I can included for an additional fee. I picked the T5 and rear end (3.42 posi, I have two, one with drums one with discs) at a really good price which I’ll pass to you. If I don't sell the car I plan on doing the conversion next spring. Damn near everything works on this car. The only issues are the cigarette lighter (I've got one somewhere) and the driver side outside door handle. There lock mechanism will stick so the outside door button won't work. As far as rust the car is pretty solid with typical issues. The inner fender under the battery is rusted out. The inner rockers and a couple of the body mounts could be replaced, very typical. The metal above the passenger side wheel well is thin with a spot coming through. The National Chevy Association has patches for this spot for on $25. Other than those issues, it's very solid. The paint is not great. If you laid some fresh paint on this car it would be a great driver. Though, as is it has an old restore patina. I wouldn’t call it a Rat Rod buy more of a High School Hot Rod. I have a bunch of receipts and I've kept a listing of all I've spent on it which you can see here: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B29e7ApG_niNT2YtQklwSlN0R0E (if you can't view or download it I can email it to you) This list only shows what I've spent in money and not time. I did not go overboard and was quite frugal when purchasing items trying to scope out the best deal I could. I'd like to get out of it what I've got into it because I feel that it's worth it. You can have my time for free because I've enjoyed working on it. For those that may be concerned about my wrench turning abilities: I started working in a garage at 17 where I was mentored. I attended a community college where I got an Associated Degree in Automotive Service and Repair. I worked as an ASE Master Certified Mechanic for 8 years. I then went back to school and earned a bachelor's degree in Mechanical Engineering graduating Suma Cum Laude. Anything I did on this car was well researched and by the book to ensure it would be reliable and safe. Please let me know if you have any questions. I'm sure I've forgot a few things and I’m sure there’s more a serious buyer would like to know. Send me a message and I’ll get back to you with my phone number. I’ll help with delivery as much as I can. I may be even willing to deliver it within the Midwest for incurred cost plus a small fee. I have additional pics on Photo Bucket which you can view here: http://s595.beta.photobucket.com/user/rjamsehuss/library/52%20Chevy I also have a couple of video which can be viewed here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBI_Q...ature=youtu.be http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVyEK6auiKs I do have a clear Kansas title in my name, no funny business here. Five percent deposit due within 48 hours after close of auction. Vehicle will be held after receipt of deposit for 14 days, after that, the deposit will be forfeited and vehicle will be relisted for sale. Please contact me after close of auction if other arrangements need to be made. Please contact me before making any payment to avoid transaction fees.Thanks, HUSSEY Note: to see pics on the HAMB you may have to be a member, if you're not it's definitely worth joining. If you are a HAMB member you can see additional pic in my albums, my username is HUSSEY.On Jan-17-13 at 08:48:58 PST, seller added the following information: EDIT: If you have any questions about the car please give me a call at 913-375-2634. If you're from out of state and would like to locate someone to come take a look at it I'm sure you could find someone in a local club or on a car forum. Phone calls, inspections, and test drives are highly encouraged and accomodated! Thanks, HUSSEY