1994 Jeep Wrangler

Wrangler

4.0L 242Cu. In. l6 GAS OHV Naturally Aspirated

Manual

1j4fy29s4rp415680

Clear

Gasoline

Selling my 94 Wrangler YJ. I've owned it for about a year and a half. When I first bought it, the previous owner had recently replaced the original rotted out frame with a newer YJ frame in great shape. Barely has any surface rust, ZERO rot. Can't say the same thing for the body though. The tub had swiss cheese floorboards, the fenders were rotted and dented, the tailgate was smashed in, etc. First thing I did was replace the entire rear brake setup (drums, shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders and all E-brake cables) since the left rear cylinder was leaking and everything else was rusted and useless. Replaced a few small odds and ends like the fuse panel cover and both seatbelts but that was about it for the first year. Over the last six months however, I kicked the project into overdrive. When I bought it, the previous owner had already installed a 3.5" Superlift lift kit and a 2 inch body lift kit to clear the 33" x 12.50 tires. Tires are Mud Kings and have about 40% tread left. They show some dry rot but I've never had a problem with them in the last eighteen months, including the one winter I've owned it. Since the lift and tires were already previously done, I focused on getting the body where I wanted it. The original body was so rough the doors barely lined up to shut and often popped open when you least expected it... corners, etc. So I ended up finding a mint shape Sahara tub locally, as well as fenders. Luckily theres a Jeep salvage yard a couple towns away. Purchases were made through Ebay however, as they have most everything listed there. Also sourced the tailgate and grille on Ebay as well from different sellers. Once I had everything, I pulled off all the old sheet metal. With the body off, I had great access to the drivetrain so I replaced the flywheel and clutch set. Also replaced the leaking clutch master and slave cylinder as a prefilled unit from Amazon. While I had a straight shot at everything, I also replaced the alternator and got a new radiator. Prepped the new tub, cleaned and used Rust Encapsulator on the few small spots it had and then primed it. Same thing on the rest of the sheet metal. When I put it back together, I replaced all the body mount bolts with grade 8 bolts. Once it was all assembled, I used Monster liner on the interior of the tub. I also used weather tape to seal off all the random holes in the firewall that let those lovely drafts in at your feet in the winter time. If you've ever owned a YJ, you know what I mean. The Sahara tub had a small rot spot in the drivers floor plan so I used a patch from a replacement floor pan, weather taped the opening and then riveted the patch into place. It's solid. Also ran a dedicated ground from the negative terminal to the fuel pump grounding location behind the e brake pedal. Again, if you've ever owned a YJ, you know what I mean and why I did it. Replaced the windshield bolts with grade 8 allen head replacements. Used SEM vinyl die in Landau Black to change the dash from the original green to a low gloss black, looks factory. Factory front seats have original camo X-bound seat covers. Couple tears, but they have personality. I took rear seats out since I dont ride with more than one passenger. Still have them and the brackets in my shop. Previous owner put a Flowmaster muffler in place of the stock one. I replaced the steering stabilizer with a Moog Trail Boss version, a lot beefier than a stock small piston stabilizer. Has newer rear Rancho Shocks in the back, I actually helped the previous owner finish installing them when I bought it. Fronts arent leaking but have definitely seen better days. The amount of time I drive the Jeep though, they were fine for me. Has a hard top in good shape, a little dirty from sitting behind my shop during the summer but no real flaws. I replaced the lift supports on both sides of the rear glass so it can support its own weight. Has a rear wiper but I've never bothered to hook it up honestly so I'll say it probably doesn't work. It might, but I'd rather say it doesn't and have you pleasantly surprised. Heat works awesome, heate core was replaced when the tub was off. The selector cable broke though so its currently set to heat both the floor and the defroster, which is really where you want it anyway. Theres a guy on Ebay selling OE replacement cables for 20 bux but to be honest, even if I was keeping it I wouldnt even bother. The Jeep has no ac, so the only thing you use is the heat in the winter. You get the best heat in the cab when you have it set to come out both top and bottom and if you really felt like switching it, the selector arm is under the radio, so you can do it by hand. If you really want to buy the cable and install it, more power to you. Wipers work but intermittent works... intermittently. Theres supposedly a governor module that controls it but again, this wasnt my daily driver so I didnt care about the small things like that. Wipers worked and thats all that mattered to me.New blades on them. Has a CJ style windshield mount side mirror on drivers side, because that's all you need to be legal in CT. Great when you want to take the doors off. Full hard doors, originals from previous owner. Pull handle on passenger side fell off on one side and the window crank handle wasnt there when I bought it. Again, to me that didnt matter. The top and doors come off in the early spring and dont come back on until about October (Jeep lives inside my shop, so weather isnt an issue), so when the doors finally go on, the windows wouldnt be coming down anyway, not to mention that I rarely ever have passengers. Crank handles are what, 8 bucks if you really want one. I put in a cheap Pioneer CD player with 3.5mm jack to listen to music on my Iphone. Previous owner put some decent replacement speakers in the dash. Antenna was missing when I bought it, so I ddint bother replacing it when I replaced the fenders. I'm not much for radio anyway, not when I have my entire music library on my phone. Four wheel drive works mintm, never had an issue. Still has the factory vacuum actuated axle disconnect setup. Stock axles, stock gearing. Replaced the rear U joint straps for sloppiness, other than that no issues with drivetrain. Rear axle has degree shims to make the driveline angle good so theres no vibration. Jeep goes down the road straight as an arrow, zero death wobble, regardless of speed. Steering wheel is slightly off center, I was going to adjust it back to center but then I got back into my Mustang project again and next thing you know, now I'm selling it to help move into a new house. Again, not a big deal for me, if you buy it and want to fix it, it's a quick fix. If not, even better. It's a YJ, it's the last of the real Jeeps. Minimal interior, leaf springs and no frills. Only other issue is it has the common Jeep lean. Right rear leaf spring is slightly sagged due to the fact that its a short wheelbase and all the weight transfer goes to the right rear. If you're not new to Wranglers, you'll know that it's very common. A superlift replacement spring pack is 60 plus shipping. If I was keeping it, I'd likely repalce the spring pack but at the end of the day, it doesnt affect anything. Personal preference. That's all I can think of. Jeep is on sale locally so if it sells here, its gone from Ebay. Use the buy it now if you really want it. I do have a superwinch epi 9.0 9000lb electric winch that's never been used. All the accessories are still sealed in bags, cable is still tie wrapped. Bought it a month ago when I had plans on keeping the Jeep. If bidding eclipses the 3500 mark it will be included. If it doesnt, I might negotiate for it. Reserve is 2500 so if you dont want to spend at least that much, dont bother bidding honestly. You would need to buy a winch mount for it. Bought an Optima Yellow top battery with dual terminals to accomodate an electric winch hookup. Local sale is preffered, but if you want to travel thats on you. Rules of the auction will still apply regardless of where youre coming from. $500 deposit within 24 hours, balance due on pickup or within 7 days, whichever comes first. Clean title in hand. Edit - 9/25 - Should note, this passed a CT emissions inspection when I bought it and nothing has been modified in the exhaust. If it can pass in CT, it should pass a tail pipe test anywhere. They don't do a safety check in CT but I checked out the front end when I bought it and nothing was in dire need of replacement. If you happen to need a safety inspection and there ends up being a tie rod or ball joint loose, I'll even buy you a replacement within the first 5 days after pickup. I doubt there will be any issues but I like to stand behind what I sell. On Sep-25-12 at 14:26:10 PDT, seller added the following information: Edit again - Just remembered, the passenger rear taillight area on the new tub was a little dinged up so I cut a patch panel our of the old tub and riveted it on so that the tail light would sit straight. Cant really even notice it, can take pictures if anyone wants clarification. Message me with email address. On Sep-29-12 at 10:38:20 PDT, seller added the following information: EDIT - 9/28 - Forgot to mention in add that previous owner had front bumper welded to the frame professionally by Charlton Welding. Has provisions for D - rings. Rear bumper is bolted on, matches the front. Looks like it had a spare tire carrier swingout on it at one point but it was gone before I bought it. On Sep-29-12 at 10:50:47 PDT, seller added the following information: Edit again - I wil lalso be including the plug and play trailer wiring hookup. Plugs in at the taillights with factory connectors and can be simply unplugged for removal with no splicing required. The rear bumper has a 2 inch receiver molded in. Upgraded the stock flasher to a heavy duty one. Towed my 01 Yamaha Raptor a few times the summer I got the Jeep. On Sep-29-12 at 19:02:59 PDT, seller added the following information: Edit - Should also mention the stock voltmeter is off by a couple volts and the bulb in the 4WD indicator works intermittently. The voltmeter reads 12 when the vehicle is started and the alt is charging and reads ten when on only battery power, i.e. key on engine off. Alternator function can be verified on pickup if you want, I have a midtronics battery and alternator tester. Gas gauge, oil pressure and engine coolant temp all are correct and accurate. Again, these are all minor and very common YJ issues. I suspect the 4WD indicator socket could use a cleaning and re spread of the terminals, the voltmeter could be related to corrosion on the printed circuit. Both issues were present when I bought it and I just got to know the vehicle over time so I never really paid much attention to them. I'm going to be changing the front brake cable tomorrow and cleaning it up in prep for its new owner, so I may look into the 4WD light first, then if I have time the voltmeter. Honestly, they make aftermarket replacement gauges which replace the stock ones, ideally that would be the best solution. Any stock factory gauge is pretty unreliable anyway. As always, any questions feel free to ask. On Sep-30-12 at 09:34:36 PDT, seller added the following information: Edit - This should probably be the final edit before the auction closes. This morning I bought a new front e brake cable and replaced the one I had previously installed due to a cut in the outer sheathing. It worked fine still but would have eventually failed due to water intrusion. So thats all set. New owner will have to make final ebrake adjustment to their liking. I have it adjusted up enough to hold, but usually requires a final adjustment after using the parking brake a few times. I always parked in first gear so never really used the e brake much anyway. I messed around with the 4WD indicator light and I didnt find anything conclusive. New bulb didnt help so I still think the printed circuit has some corrosion. Didnt want to pull apart the whole dash though. 4WD does work though, I even took a minute long video that is date stamped with the Jeep up in the air in and out of 4WD, verifying operation. Put the rear seat and brackets in the back, BestTop bikini top on the passenger seat. Owners manual is in the glove box, just waiting on a new owner. Everyone bidding remember, this is a binding contract. If youre the winning bidder, a non refundable $500 deposit is due by 11PM eastern standard time on Tuesday as that is the 24 hour mark. Full payment within 7 days. I will hold the Jeep in my shop for you if you're coming from far away for as long as you want, but payments still must be made in full by the specified times. No exceptions. Any questions, ask before bidding and definitely before the auction closes.