1967 Chevrolet Nova

Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

115377w133387

Gasoline

67 Hardtop Nova. I've been working on this car for over 5 years and have gotten to the point to where it needs painted along with a little interior work and it will be done. I have way too many projects going and simply do not have the time to finish it. I purposely waited until the end to paint the car so that it would not get scratched while being completed. The chassis and drivetrain work are completely finished and it looks great. I drive the car often. Almost all of the parts used on this car such as the front clip, wheels, accessory drive, 4-link, ignition parts, master cylinder, gauges, shifter, etc. were bought new, not second hand parts from a swap meet. I did reuse a few parts such as the cylinder heads, carb, and a few others but most everything is new. As far as the body goes it is in great shape. 99 percent rust free, only a very few "bubbles" scattered here and there. The passenger floorpan has a very few pin-holes that I was going to let the body shop take care of when it went to paint but they are very minor. It has been PROFESSIONALY backhalfed with a comp eng. 4 link setup with QA1 external adjustable coilovers, wishbone locater, etc. All of the four link parts including the rearend housing itself have been powdercoated black. The tubs and other aluminum still have the plastic protective coating that hasn't been peeled off yet. In the pictures this coating makes all of the black aluminum in the interior and the trunk look dull and scratched but I assure you it is not. It is shiny and new underneath the plastic coating. I was only leaving the coating on until the car is completely finisthed so that it doesn't get scratched. There is no carpet in the car. It has not been replaced since the backhalf job last year. Carpet will probably need to be custom becuase the trans tunnel and floor board has been altered due to the backhalf. The front clip is a Checkered Racing mustang II type with tubular parts including QA1 coilovers, disc brakes, and power rack & pinion. This car drives amazingly straight and handles very well with the new front clip and backhalf. It feels like a totally different car compared to how it handled with the original suspension. The front suspension upgrade is a definite MUST on these cars. The front clip and radiator support have also been powdercoated black. The wiring is nice and neat and connections are heat shrinked. Covan's dash with autometer gauges. All ignition and electrical accessories are located on the passenger kick panel nice and neat. Motor is a GM block 406, 11:1 forged pistons, eagle crank, eagle H-beam rods with L19 bolts, Bullet solid roller, Endurex solid roller lifters, harland sharp rockers, Comp Cams stud girdle, Dart Iron Eagle 215's with Ferrera stainless valves and springs to match cam. Car runs very strong. No problems with drivetrain. Engine was built last year by Smith Racing Engines in Lepanto, Arkansas and I have receipts and detailed parts list for most engine parts. Has new KRC Serpentine accessory setup including powermaster alternator, powersteerig pump, water pump, etc. This is a VERY nice setup with billet brackets and the late model power steering pump with integrated reservoir. The power steering feel is adjustable from light to heavy with the swap of the blue valve on the pump. Lots of information on the accessory drive system is available at krcpower.com Transmission is a Powerglide with a bracket brake and turbo splined shaft. Converter is a 9" BTE with a 4,000 stall. Rearend is a narrowed 12 bolt with spool, strange axels, disc brakes, and 4.11 gears. Rear wheels are Billet Specialties Street lites 15x14 with 29-18.5-15 Sportsman Pro tires. I bought the front wheels to match but had to return them due to wrong bolt pattern was sent so it now has a pair of draglites on the front that I had setting in the shop. 10 gal Aluminum cell in trunk. Braided line throughout car. Holley Billet HP 150 pump. Shifnoid Solenoid shifter. The iginition is a programmable 6AL-2 that has a totally programmable timing curve, 3-step rev limiter, etc. The electrical accessories such as the ignition, fan, transbrake, shifter, nitrous controls, etc are all run through a relay center which is the black box under the dash that includes several realys. This cuts down on wiring and cluttered up realys all over the car. The dash looks great but will need a new dash pad. The dash pad in the car now is in good shape but the black color is peeling off. The switch panel was ordered from Tim Mcamis Race Cars. It looks and fits in the dash perfectly. Switch panel also includes nitrous switches and the rest of the car is also wired for nitrous if someone decided they wanted a kit on it. When I bought the car it had the electric actuated door openers and I couldn't stand them. I replaced the door handle on the driver side but have yet to replace the one on the passenger side. I do have the handle and other related parts for the passenger side. I have new in the box bumpers, grill, door panels, and some other parts to be put on after the car is painted. I will say that after the backhalf and front clip installation, I did not spend a lot of time lining up the fenders and trunk. Not to say that they won't line up, I simply didn't take the time to make them perfect as I knew they were all coming right back off when the car went to paint. The paint is in fair condition and has stuck very well considering it is probably 20 years old. I knew the car was going to be painted and it did not hurt my feelings to lay a wrench on the car etc so the paint does have some scrapes and scratches here and there but the body is in great shape and not full of bondo and waves. I slapped the drivers front fender with a cherry picker during the motor install and it has a small dent there but not horrible. The cage was constructed through the dash instead of in front of it. I think that looks a lot better and also gives a lot more room entering and exiting the car. The door bars were also bent low and out. The dash bar is tucked neatly behind the dash out of sight. The windshield was removed to build the cage through the dash and was inevitabley cracked at the driver side upper corner in the blue tinted area. I went ahead and put the windshield back in but left the upper and lower trim off so it would be easier to get out when painted. I do have the trim but didn't see any sense in putting it back on and risk bending it when the windshield would need to be removed again for paint. All of the other glass is perfect. The rest of the body work will consist of very minor door dings etc. Car is all steal other than the hood which is a pin on fiberglass. I do have the hood hinge brackets that came with the front clip and are also powdercoated black if a hinged hood is desired. I have a wiring schematic for all of the electrical accessories that was drawn with AutoCad. All of the lights are still wired up and run through the headlight switch but I have not run the hot wire to the swithch yet. I also have a binder I have kept with a lot of the receipts, part numbers, and descriptins of engine parts, chassis parts, etc. I can email more detailed pics to anyone that is interested. I know it is hard to describe a car with only a few pictures over the internet so anyone that would like to view the car before the auction ends I will be available to do that. Just give me a call at 870-483-3338 and let me know you're coming. I know the car needs paint and a few lose ends tied up but it is definetly a very solid, well built car that I just don't have the time to play with anymore. Anyone that has ever built a car like this knows exactly how much cost, time, and stress is involved in getting one to this point. I have spent well in excess of $30,000 on the car and have receipts to back up most of it. I am requiring a $500 nonrefundable deposit through Paypal within 12 hours of auction end just to keep bidders honest. Of course this $500 will be deducted from the final sales price. The balance must be paid in cash, wire transfer, or with a cashier's check within 7 days of auction end whether the car has been picked up yet or not. My local bank must inspect and approve the cashier's check BEFORE the car moves an inch. I am sure you can understand why. IF my schedule allowed, I would consider delivering the car for $2.00 per loaded mile per mapquest but the car and cost of delivery must be completely paid for either by a cashier's check or wire transfer before I leave.Otherwise I can store the car indefinetly until it is picked up but it must be paid in full within 7 days of auction end in any case. These payment and delivery terms are not negotiable. Title is free and clear. Again, feel free to give me a call to discuss any questions about the car. My number is 870-483-3338 and my name is Jason. On Nov-16-11 at 19:23:57 PST, seller added the following information: I have had several messages offering to buy as a rolling chassis, or to give "said amount" if the car doesn't bring the reserve. I am absolutely not willing to break the car up. It is a nice car and built right so I am not going to start tearing it apart. If the car doesn't bring the reserve of 15K I plan to just park it in a corner of the shop and let it set until I have time to have it painted. I am getting offers of 10 and 12 thousand and that is just pissing me off. If you want a car of this caliber you have to pay for it. I certainly did. A reserve of 15K is more than cheap for this car. I don't know what I was thinking when I set the reserve at 15K anyway, should have been closer to 20. If it don't sell this time around, it will not be for sell again. I am not broke and do not HAVE to sell the car so the vultures can back off and let the real bidders take a stab at it. Sorry for the rant, but these low-ball offers are really getting to me.