1968 Chevrolet Corvette

Convertible

8 - Cyl.

Manual

194678S401485

Gasoline

1968 Corvette Convertible Needs New Home! This Corvette is a numbers matching (engine, transmission, & differential) early production C-3 (shark body) Corvette. As you may know 1968 is a change-over year, so this is one of the first non-Stingray Corvettes ever made. It has most of the original parts and features desirable in an early 1968 specimen. It does, however, need your help and expertise now. My wife and I decided to fix and remodel the kitchen, as well as a number of other rooms, so my time and money are now tied up in the house. Therefore, I can no longer support the car’s gasoline habit or provide the loving home that it needs. It is great fun to drive – great torque, great power, and its idle is so “lopey” it sets off car alarms! But, it needs a lot of work, and though I am very mechanically inclined, I just don’t have all of the necessary resources to maintain or restore it. It has a great personality, and a few of the quirks that ’68 Vettes are known for. It likes like high octane fuel (94 plus booster), nice scenic rides, and companionship. Hopefully, someone out there can offer these, will recognize the fairly rare vehicle it is, and the gem it can be. Below I have written a very long listing to try and answer the obvious questions. I am happy to answer additional questions you may have via ebay/email. Also, if there is something specific not photographed, please ask me as I may have one, or can take one (Ebay permits a maximum of 24 photos). If you email a telephone number and good times I can call, I will do so. Anyone interested in seeing the car is welcome to. It is best to see what you are buying, if possible, and I will do my very best to accommodate your schedule. The car is at my house in Richfield, OH 44286. (Richfield is in NE Ohio between Akron and Cleveland.) Please note the car cannot be driven on public roads as it has no insurance for that purpose. 1968 Chevrolet Corvette Convertible VIN: 194678S401485 - Early Production (early October 1967) Color: LeMans Blue (976) Interior: Medium Blue Vinyl (414) Soft-top Color: White Factory Hard-top: Le Mans Blue History of Ownership: I always had a desire to own a Shark Corvette. In June 1995, I had just turned 24, when I found one for sale. I decided to use the money that I had been saving to purchase this car from its third owner, located in Warren Ohio. He purchased it in 1970/71. He drove it as his regular car for about two years, and then relegated it to non-winter driving. It has never been in salt or snow since. By 1975/6, he was driving it in the summer, sparingly. His reason for selling was his lack of time – he had other projects (a sailboat and an airplane). To his and my knowledge, the car was delivered in, and has always been titled in Ohio. However, I have never verified this with a title search. By the way, it has a clear title. I drove this car regularly from 1995 until 2001, when I got my first house. Then, it moved into the garage, and since 2005, I have not had it on the road. The title was odometer discrepancy flagged when I got it, and lawfully so. However, I don’t think it’s anywhere close to a 100,000 mile car based on the engine wear found, etc.) Anyway, since I parked it, I have started it regularly, and driven it on my 200+ foot driveway to ensure the functioning of the brakes, etc. Options: · L79 – 327cid/350hp SHP V8 · M21 – Muncie wide ratio 4 speed manual · A01 – Tinted Glass · A02? – Tinted Windshield · G81 – Posi Traction Rear Axle · U69 – AM/FM Radio · Factory Dealer Installed Alarm The car may have other options. However, I have the tank sticker from the car, and it is very dirty, and totally illegible, big surprise. I also have the owner’s manual, all major receipts from my ownership, and a few from the previous owner. Unfortunately, I have no other documentation. As you may know, this is a common situation with older Corvettes, as GM destroyed all production records. Description and Work Done: I have tried to research some of the characteristics of this car, and verified a number of them that show it is an original, early car. I also did my own work, or where appropriate, had professional work done on the car. In general, the parts on the car are original, or when replaced, I saved them. All these parts come along. This is a long list… Engine: Block stamped VIN code 186401485 and stamped with code V0920HT. Heads double hump cast Fueler type (2.02/1.60) with casting codes 39171291. Intake original. Crank original (forged). Connecting rods original. The engine was professionally overhauled after the oil pressure gauge line blew off while on the highway. Luckily, no real damage was done, except the crank journals were slightly scratched in the loss of oil. I had it rebuilt when they found near-tolerance wear in two cylinders, poorly seating valves, and worn cam lobes – most of this was regular wear (except the crank journals). The following work was done and new parts installed: · TRW 10:5 compression flat top pistons, lifters, push rods, camshaft (.461 lift, 232 duration – it’s a step above the L79 cam), cam and crank bearings, rocker arms, high volume oil pump, timing chain and gears, harmonic balancer. · Block was hot tanked, align bored and machined. · Intake manifold was hot tanked and magnafluxed - found to be absolutely perfect. · Original crank was reground and 3 journals were made .001 over size. · Connecting rods machined and refitted with new wrist pins. · Cylinder heads were machined and rebuilt. Valves were reground and reseated. I think I had 8 seats fitted with hardened steel inserts. I should have done all 32, but I was young and nearly out of money. The end result is that you have to use lead additive or substitute. I opted to change three things on the engine: The oil pump is now a high volume model with better pressure and output than the original (pan is original and at least 6 quart capacity). The cam was taken a step up – why not have more torque and power for the same price? Also, the .030” 11:1 dome top pistons were way over what I could afford at the time. I opted for the slightly cheaper ones above, but they are not correct 11:1 dome tops. I just didn’t have another $1000+ at the time. Transmission: Original VIN stamped M21 Muncie was professionally rebuilt because when replacing the clutch, the tranny slipped off of my ramp I had it setting on, and slid right onto the floor – input shaft first – a 4” drop & oops! The shop replaced the mainshaft, synchronizers, thrust washers, and seals. The original gaskets were still in place, so the gearbox has been opened up once in 44 years. Speedometer gear was replaced by me along with the cable. I think the gear was a light green in color, and was plastic. Differential: Original to my knowledge. I got under the car and counted turn to the wheels versus driveshaft and came up with about 3.4-3.6. I couldn’t find the axle code, but it seems likely it’s a 3.6 because it is a posi. I know there are a bunch of different ratios, but never had the desire to open it up just to find out. It’s tight and fine, and so I went on without knowing. Brakes & Clutch: Stainless calipers, etc. were done by previous owner. A good thing even though not original equipment. Car stops well and no leaks, etc. The E-brake is disconnected, the parts I have come with. Clutch is a Hayes heavy duty unit – new plate, disc and bearing. Flywheel was machined. Clutch has great holding power and does not slip. Paint: A 1971 repaint in correct LeMans Blue factory GM Lacquer (Previous owner was a GM employee and got the paint from the source). It now needs repainted, as it is flaking off in places, and generally has seen better days. Hardtop looks to be a repaint – probably the same time. Body and Chrome: The body has never been hit, and is original. Chrome is also original. Body has a small area of repair on front fender. Previous owner had an object fall on it in his garage – just after he painted it (always how it goes…). You can see this in the photo. It cracked the paint and the glass. Other spots on the fiberglass are the rivets showing (if that matters to you), the bonding stripes on both rear quarters, doors where they rubbed the hard top, etc. Chrome is decent, but should be redone if you are being thorough. Both verticals up front (by license plate) are rusted through. Small pits are in the rears, but it looks like this is thinning and not corrosive. The front clip is missing some fiberglass way under the headlights. Looks like it got clipped off. A rear left bumper mounting bracket is very slightly out – the bumper is fine. It got bent when a relative of mine rolled her car into it at less than 1mph. (As she was starting her car, she put her foot on the clutch and her car rolled about 1 foot into the left rear bumper). I am sure the body needs other work, but I am not a fiberglass judge by any means. One exhaust bezel is missing (I have it) – it fell off when a low curb and the exhaust pipe got into an argument. Frame: The frame is original. I found it was weak at the joints above the rear wheels, so I had it welded. It was done by a professional frame shop in Cleveland, as this is a common Vette problem, but I wanted an experienced shop do the work, which they had, many times prior to mine. The frame has surface rust, but not scaling/flaking in any great quantity that I have noticed. There is a hole at the very front under the headlight. One frame mount (#4 Passenger) is rotted through. The driver #4 frame mount is rusty but not through. This has caused the car to sag a bit and the rear sits lower as a result (this also is due to a sagging leaf spring, which is an Eckler’s replacement I installed when I got the car). I assume there could be other frame issues, but do not know of any at this time. Interior: Gauges all work, except the notorious clock. The speedo was replaced (odometer warning on the title), but previous owner told me the needle went, there was no choice. Speedo appears to be correct replacement. Tach works but is not hooked up (see above distributor). Radio worked, (but the car is loud enough I never used it), so does heater. All the lights and fiber optics work, too. The wipers worked until recently. I think the motor seized. Glass: Windows are coded Soft Ray AS 2AZ (dr) and AS 2 TZ (pass). Windshield is E-Z-Eye ASI-GI. Driver’s side has a small flake at top edge, passenger a big chip along top where it hit the hardtop years ago. Windshield looks great, but I think the date code means it’s a replacement. Tires & Wheels: Tires are size 225/70/R15 and were installed in Sept. 1984. There are no cracks, etc., and a fair amount of tread left. I estimate they are at least half worn. Wear is not close to the tread bars yet. I believe the wheels to be the correct 7" originals. Trim rings and center caps are good, one trim ring I replaced. Other details: · As noted above, anything I took off the car that was not junk I saved. This all comes with the car. Also all receipts I have come along as well. · The odometer reads 57K, but it is more. The previous owner said he ran it with the speedo broken. I don’t think it is too much higher, as the wear and tear does not reflect an 80,000+ mile car. · Always Castrol 20W50 non-synthetic oil in it. · As for other mechanicals, I have an original Rochester Quadrajet on it, the original throttle body had a hairline, so I found another. Not sure if the numbers are correct on it, but it is a merger of the original Rochester parts. · The distributor is original and correct tach drive, but it is not in the car. I put another one in to try and get the timing better, because the cam is just hot enough to screw up the settings, and I had to do it by ear. Once I got it to run very well, I never tried the old one again. · The starter and alternator were long gone by the time I got the car (originals were VIN stamped). · Original manifolds are saved out – I put Hooker headers and exhaust on it. · Radiator is a Harrison replacement – previous owner saved the core. · I put Stay-Cool additive with the coolant to reduce the engine temp. It has never overheated, but without the additive, ran at 200-210 degrees. Additive easily knocked off more than 20 degrees. · Soft top is poor – works but poor appearance and window is clouded beyond help. · The soft-top frame itself is very good. · The hard top has two small chunks missing from where the doors hit it. You know 68s have great body lines, but early ones had a little problem with body fit…The paint on the top is fair - was redone (1971). It seals fairly well (better than the soft top), and headliner appearance is very good. · The clutch and driveline are in very good condition. · There is a driveline noise/vibration that shows up at about 60-65 – I suspect a driveshaft or half-shaft balance issue. · Wheel bearings are good - I replaced the rears when I got the car. · Headlights work, some of the hoses look original. · Two radiator hoses are red stripe (originals?), though the water pump is not original, it’s a unit from Summit Racing. · The AIR pump was long gone before I even liked Corvettes. · Some ignition parts are saved, but I don’t have the lid and some of the other parts that box in the distributor. · Alarm is a factory unit dealer installed, parts are there but no longer works. · A kill switch was installed, which is still wired but I disconnected it. · I also have a few extras – all receipts, a spare driveshaft, spare starter, water pump core, and new OEM seat covers. Other Problems: · I cannot get the driver’s side door open. This is not the first car to have this problem – there is even an NCRS tech article on it. For this sale, it means I cannot get a picture of the paint code plate. I know it is 976/414 because I verified it years ago, but I did not write down the date code. I never made the time to try and fix this – which is doable with time and patience. · Driver’s window will not roll down. The crank turns but there is no resistance. Whether it is related to the door latch/ lock issue I cannot say. · Hood latch is acting up, and I have elected not to close it, as it will not pull from within the car. It will open on one side, and then you can work it to the other side - obviously needs fixed or replaced. · Passenger headlight sometimes needs lifted up in order to get it to drop. Lights are slow to drop. An obvious leak or something – these are vacuum operated, and given the hoses look to be originals, it’s probably time. · There is a slow draw on the battery – likely the brake light switch (there is an in-line fuse that probably has gone again). My fix for it is to disconnect the battery. Otherwise the brake lights stay on when the car is parked. · The water pump has an intermittent squeal, a sign the bearings maybe drying out. The fix is a new water pump. Finally: I would strongly advise that this car be towed or shipped, and not driven to its new home. It has not been on the road in 6 years. It is drivable, but I think it would be safest to have it towed or trailered to its new home, even if that is close by. This car is in need of a lot of help, but it is nowhere near a lost cause. It is ready for your attention and expertise. I have tried to explain what I know, and what was done. Generally, what it needs is a frame-off, but that’s up to you. The question is do you want one of the first 68’s? If so, here are the terms of sale… Terms of Sale: This car is sold as-is where-is with no warranties of any kind expressed or implied. An inspection of the car is recommended, and I the seller will accommodate an inspection as best as I possibly can. Any inspection must occur prior to the auction’s close. This auction is open to US and Canadian bidders. However, any Canadian bidders must contact me (the seller) prior to bidding, or I will cancel the bid! PRIOR TO BIDDING, PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT FUNDS TO BUY THIS CAR! I want a smooth transaction and a happy buyer. You want a happy seller. Please do not bid if you cannot pay for the car. The winning bidder shall make a non-refundable deposit of $500US via PayPal or cash in person within 48 hours of auction’s close. Balance is due within 7 calendar days of auction end. Balance to be paid in US Currency ONLY, via cash in person, or certified US or Canadian Bank check. A failure to pay on time will result in a report to Ebay, and the car being relisted or sold to another buyer. Possession of the car must be taken within 14 calendar days of the auction close unless arranged with the seller in advance of the end of the auction. All taxes and fees are the sole responsibility of the buyer. All bidders with negative or zero feedback will be blocked if they do not email a phone number and we speak via telephone prior to bidding. This car is available to US and International Buyers. However, please note that Buyer is responsible for all arrangements to pick up, tow or ship the car. Car will not be released until payment clears. Pick up time is to be cleared with seller prior to its finalization with the shipping or towing company. (I have a flexible schedule, but if I cannot be at home, you cannot get the car!). It is strongly advised that the car be trucked flatbed or trailer, because it sits too low for a two-wheel tow. The car is currently insured for comprehensive damage. Seller’s insurance on the car will be cancelled at time of clear payment, so it is advised that the buyer arrange for insurance to begin at this time, and certainly prior to transport, etc. Once again, please email any questions, etc. I will be happy to talk to you. I hope you will consider my first dream car as your next one! And, thanks for looking and reading all this stuff – I tried to be thorough, but maybe ended up being a bore! Jeremy – aka misterbunky