1963 Ford Falcon

customized Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

Gasoline

1963 Ford Falcon, old school hot rod, mild custom. This car is not for the show and shine crowd as much as it is for the go crowd. From it's Nova front bumper to its custom rear this car is a retro rod. This car is a blast to drive. The car was completed in spring 2008, and has about 1500 miles since completion. I have taken it to several local car shows and love sitting back and watching the reaction. Some people look at it and try to figure out what kind of car it is, others look at the satin paint and wonder, but the real car guys do a walk around then look inside and see the gauge panel moleded into the dash and they understand what this car is about. Next they usually walk over to me and tell me how neat the car is. I built this car for myself just as I did in the 60's, lots of power, low weight. Just about everything is new or rebuilt. You can not buy the parts to build this car at my starting price. PLEASE READ THE WHOLE THING BEFORE BIDDING. Lets get to the nuts and bolts of this car as I said your can't build a car for this price. ENGINE I started with a low mile 302 cu engine and C-4 transmission that I was told came from a 1971 mustang. The engine was completely disassembled, from inspecting the internal parts, it appeared to be a low miles, and really did not need a rebuild, we rebuilt it anyway. The engine received the following new parts: standard size ring set, standard rod bearings, standard main bearings, oil pump, timing chain and sprockets, freeze plugs, and the block was degreased and flushed clean. The heads were cleaned and inspected and given new valve stem seals and valves reseated and carefully assembled with all new gaskets. The following engine accessories were also new: water pump, fuel pump, distributor, accel high voltage coil, accel high temp wires. The alternator was disassembled and rebuilt. Starter was disassembled, cleaned and checked. The engine received an aluminum Weiand high rise manifold and rebuilt Holley 4bbl carb, I think it was a 750cfm. New thermostat and chrome housing, and the motor was painted with Ford Motor Color high temp engine paint. Upon installation a new radiator w / hoses and belt were installed, a high scfm electric fan was installed for engine cooling and a switch on the drivers kick panel to turn it on. A recovery bottle was also added to the cooling system, never had an overheating problem even on cruise night in town. Also added during motor installation was a set of high torque motor mounts and transmission mounts. While these mounts allow more vibration and noise to be experienced during high speed, they were designed to put the torque to the wheels and that it does. TRANSMISSION C4 I disassembled the transmission and rebuit it with a master rebuild kit, which included new clutches and steel plates, new bands, new bushings, new vacuum modulator and gaskets and seals. B&M Ratchet shifter. DIFFERENTIAL Drive shaft custom made by local drive line company. Rearend is out of a 1989 Bronco II. I never pulled it apart to check it but I did change the fluid. I installed new wheel cylinders, brake shoes and hardware, new brake lines from front to rear. SUSPENSION The car has new custom progressive springs up front, a little stiffer ride can be felt. New spring perches, tie rod ends, shocks all around. The front wheel bearings were cleaned and checked, repacked and new grease seals installed. The front brake cylinders were rebuilt and new brake shoes and hardware installed. To finish off the drive train the car has a new gas tank and sender, all new fuel lines front to rear. New dual exhaust, exhaust pipes kick out in front of the rear tires, performance mufflers by local muffler shop. 4 new retro type chrome reverse custom made wheels by Wheel Smith of California. 4 new Uniroyal Tiger Paw tires nitrogen filled, balanced with weights on the inside. THE BODY My son started this project his last year in high school. Upon pulling out the little under powered 6 cylinder stick, we discovered the floor pans had been patched nicely with galvanized sheet metal and rivets. I spent the next 5 years cutting out the bad stuff and strengthening the unibody. I replated the inner rockers and the 4 floor quadrants(homemade). I reworked anything I thought at the time would not support the power of the V8 we were installing. I was not interested in making a show quality under carriage as nuch as one that could hold up to a pounding of a V8. I did may smokey burnouts before putting the new stuff on the car to check for any weaknesses in the mounts and torgue box areas. With this being said the undercoating, paint and caulking under the car is for preservation only. Look at the pictures, the underside was not rust free. With that being said I don't want to surprise someone that I did a lot of handmade metal work on t his car and its underside. I believe the important structural areas are stronger now then when new. As I remember the only rust on the bodies exterior of any significance was the lower real quarters, which I handmade out of sheet metal and wire welded them on. I removed the rear bumper and made sheet metal panels to give the rear of the car a custome look. I took all the Ford letters, scripts, hood scoop trim and roof pillar trim off and wire welded the holes up. I removed front and rear windshields and sandblasted the channels. I removed the interior and welded in the gauge panel in the dash where the radio was. I removed everything from the dash and sandblasted it. I cut the tree shift stub from the steering column and welded it up. I also removed the hood, truck and doors so I could sandblast all their openings. The car was painted HotRod black, a Nova bumber was fitted to the front, motorcycle turn signals were mounted behind the grill. Upon reinstallations of the doors, windshields, trunk, hood, and tail lights I installed new weather stripping, gaskets and cushions (Dennis Carpenter). The doors got new chrome door handles. Reassembly of the dash included repaint with single stage Candy Apple Red, and new switch knobs, glove box, dash bulbs and light switch. THE INTERIOR All new, was done by my wife and I (we are amatuers in this area) but I have had compliments on it. The red and black vinyl uphostery looks fantastic. I lined the roof with air sandwiched foil insulation, it is a great sound deadner and makes the car quieter, and installed a new headliner. I sandblasted all the window garnish mouldings and painted them to match the dash. I made the real shelf cover and all the side panels. I bought new kick panels and door jamb seal plates. All new black wind lacing around the doors. I installed new carpeting I believe over the same foil type stuff. I put much more into it than I can remember. All the cars I ever bought that someone else built were always severly flawed, the only flaw here with the construction is that it is real easy to get carried away with driving it to fast. I had to stop letting my wife drive it, the last time we left a car show no one could catch her, especially when she hit the short expressway. Therefore, this car should be used by someone that can exercise reasonable diligence and interactive driving. This car drives like an old car, no abs, no rack and pinion steering, for all purposes it is a Hot Rod. Lets talk about driving, ther car requires you to pump the gas to start it, it is not fuel injected. You must switch on the engine cooling fan (by toggle switch), the temp gauge is in the original instrument cluster. Oil psi and amp charge are molded into the dash and have lights in them for night driving. The original 6 would not power the car faster that 55 so the speedo which is off by about 10mph hangs up at times at 55. There are 3 things that I was going to take care of over winter if time permitted: the steering wheel needs pulled to fix the horn brush. When I painted the steering column the masking tape got caught between the wheel and collar pulling the spring loaded brush making it ground so the horn blows all the time when connected. It is currently disconnected under the hood. The steering wheel should be painted. And finally the under dash vent door and hinge need put back on, they will come with the car. The car has a set of wipers under the seat, The windshield shows a wiper mark. I think the car looks better with wipers off. The car also got treated to a set of halogen headlights. I tried to cover everything, all that I could remember, but I am sure I left things off. I have lots of time and money in this car and the no reserve is way under what I have in it. There is no warranty expressed or implied. However I believe the car will bring you many trouble free miles with general maintenance. If you have any questions I will be glad to answer them. You are welcome to call and make an appointment to see the car before bidding. You are not bidding to come and see it to kick the tires, or try to find some disqualifer to get out of the auction or what you bid. All funds must clear the bank before the car is picked up.