1971 Datsun Z-Series

240Z Coupe

4 - Cyl.

Manual

HLS3041789

Gasoline

ATTENTION SHOPPERS! PLEASE READ EVERYTHING LISTED BELOW BEFORE YOU EMAIL ME QUESTIONS. I HAVE COVERED EVERY DETAIL ABOUT THIS CAR BELOW. PLEASE DO NOT ASK ME HOW TO PERFORM THIS SWAP OR HOW HARD IT WAS, I WILL NOT ANSWER ANY QUESTIONS THAT ARE NOT DIRECTLY RELATED TO MY CAR SALE. THANK YOU FOR YOUR COOPERATION. For sale is my long loved 1971 Datsun 240Z with SR20DET engine. I bought this car in 2003 as a low(ish) mile (100,000) Automatic transmission car (it is now manual of course). This insured the body was still solid and true to form. The car started and lived it’s life in New Mexico then made its way up to New Jersey were it sat for about 3yrs before the owner finally gave up the idea of restoring it. This is when I purchased the car with the intent of doing the SR swap (2003). Any rust was very minimal, floor rails are solid and fender wells were also rust free. For the engine I chose the latest SR motor I could get before the S15 Model, so this is a 1998 Black top motor with VTC and a stock Garrett T28 turbocharger. The engine is totally stock and ready to be driven daily, or ready for your meticulous build. The engine set was purchased through Heavy Throttle Performance and installed at SPI Power Excel in NJ. There it underwent the bulk of the swap while I worked on the suspension, brakes and drive train layout. The stock SR20 5 speed transmission was used along with a custom balanced driveshaft that mats up to a R200 rear differential from a Turbo S12 Silvia (4.11 gearing – Open). I purchased 280ZX turbo CV shafts and had them rebuilt before installation. I also installed stronger stub axels from the 280Z. As for engine Modifications the SR20 has remained stock it’s whole life. The engine runs off the stock SR20 ECU and power to the rest of the car is done through a Painless Wiring Switch panel located snugly where the glove box was. Also there, are all the fuses and relays. Power wise, it was dyno'ed at 250whp/260ft lbs. Keep in mind the car only weighs 2,200lbs with the all aluminum SR nestled in a front mid engine configuration. The remaining details I will include in a list format. Engine Bay: Custom Mandrel bent and polished Intercooler piping Custom Intercooler Genuine ARC Blow Off Valve Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator Z32 MAF Griffin Aluminum Radiator Flex-a-light 3,300 cfm Radiator Fan w/ Thermostat switch Brand new Brake Booster Brand new 280ZX Brake Master Cylinder Brand new 280Z Clutch Master Cylinder Custom Steel Clutch Lines Spec Stage 1 Full Disc Clutch (perfect streetabilty - clamps great cause car is so light) Stock SR20DET 5 Speed Transmission Suspension/Brakes: Arizona Zcar Coilover System w/ Pillow ball mounts and Camber Plates for adjustment Customized KYB shocks. (The Koni reds from AZ-Zcar were way too hard.) 250lb springs in Front 375lb springs in Rear (extra set of springs comes with car) KYB shocks 4 Piston Toyota 4 runner Front Calipers Steel Braided lines all around New rear drums and shoes Inside: Defi Link Gauge System = Data REC & Playback, Peak Hold and Warning Light/Sound. (Tach/Rev/Fuel Press/Water Temp/Oil Temp) AEM Wideband Apexi SAFC-II (to run Z32 MAF) Blitz Turbo Timer (used as Volt gauge) HKS EVC-4 (Seems to have failed – has not been in use for 2yrs) Nardi wheel with Quick release hub JIC Magic (CROSS) Seats and rails Sparco 4 Point Harnesses ABS plastic dashboard overlay 10 Gal Aluminum Fuel Cell All fuel lines are Steel braided with AN fittings Walbro 255 Inline Fuel Pump + Inline Aeromotive Fuel Filter Alarm System Under Car: R200 Diff with 4.11 Gearing - open. Snappy acceleration! 280ZX Turbo CV shafts (Rebuilt) 280Z Stub Axels Custom Boxed Steel Cross member with Stock SR20 engine mounts. Custom Transmission Mount plate with Polyurethane bushings Divorced 02 housing (Brand new 02 sensor installed) Full 3” Custom Exhaust with no Catalytic converter and 5Zigen Muffler at exit Body: 240ZG Replica Overfenders (Fiberglass) BRE Replica Rear Spoiler (Fiberglass) Flat Style Front Airdam (Fiberglass) Genuine Nissan Fairlady Z badges (Brand New) Genuine Nissan Fender Mirrors (Brand New) Genuine Nissan door handles (Brand New) Brand new door locks280Z Hood Vents Hood Pins (hood pop was removed for some reason) 15”x8” Prime Wheels all around with -32mm offset. Kumho Ecsta Tires with plenty of tread. New Windshield installed in 2003 from rock chip ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now listed are the quirks and suggestions: The heater core was bypassed because it leaked years before I bought the car, this created a small rust hole in the floor which is now repaired as of 8/28/10. Included with sale is a new heater core for buyer to install if they want heat. The weather stripping for the doors are from another type of car and don’t fit perfectly. The doors close perfectly and line up excellent. People usually compliment this. The Door and hatch jams are not painted. For unknown reasons the car will not start in ice cold temperatures UNLESS a spray of starter fluid is used. I did not mind this because I never drove the car in the winter. It was garage kept during the cold/salt season. A Tach adapter needs to be installed for the Defi Tach to work. Right now you can get Tach readings from the SAFC-II. The Oil Temp gauge needs a Temp sensor installed, I was not given one during purchase (this is only for gauge readings and does not interfere with the cars drivabilty) There is no Speedometer, a large Tach and Boost gauge are behind the wheel. I sourced a heads up display speedo that would use GPS but I never got around to purchasing it. By far that is the best fix for this. The paint was done 3-4yrs ago and looks stunning, though it has a couple spots that aren’t perfect when you look real close, no one notices. The front corner markers were shaved but the paint bubbled a bit, you can cover it up by putting the stock corner markers back or leave it since its not too noticeable. The back bumper is covered in chrome tape as a temp fix until I found a decent cheap bumper, but that never happened so the tape remains. Reverse lights aren’t hooked up, nor are the signal lights, these can be wired up easily in such a primitive car. My main suggestions would be The front brakes are stock non-vented disks and rear brakes are stock drums. This car stops fine on the streets, but if you plan on tracking the car or doing a lot of highway miles (stopping from high speeds), I would recommend the front brakes be upgraded to vented. The whole brake system is new from the booster to the drums. This car stops as good or better then a stock 240Z because of the upgraded calipers, new parts, and weight reduction. Vented brakes is just a personal suggestion. Installing an LSD would really help this car get some traction when the boost comes on. A roll bar or strut braces would help compliment the upgraded and firm suspension installed. I put A LOT of money and sweat into this little S30 for the past 7 years and It’s been a long mental battle to get the words “I’m selling it” out of my mouth. I'm now 30yrs old and have other car plans I want to move onto, but most importantly, I barely drive it anymore and it kills me to know it’s just sitting here. I put maybe 5,000 miles on this car since I’ve had it. I'm in the hole just over $20,000 but my reserve is no where near that of course. I never expected to make a profit or even make my money back. I feel the car is priced very fair, if you do your research, you will see that. Thanks for reading. THIS IS A USA SALE ONLY, NO INTERNATIONAL BIDS OR EMAILS PLEASE. VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcaZbNi0HWE On Oct-22-10 at 20:42:20 PDT, seller added the following information: Forgot to add the old "Sold AS IS" line. As always this car is sold AS IS.