1978 Toyota Land Cruiser

SUV

4.23 L Inline 6

Manual

FJ55-83075

Clear

Gasoline

0 0 1 1178 6718 University of North Texas 55 15 7881 14.0 Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE The reserve is set pretty low, it will not take much to meet it.It hurts me to do this and I already regret it - I looked for 2 years before buying this FJ55 - but I'm selling my 1978 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ55 for no other reason than it came down to a really tough choice between this and a nova that has been in my family for long time. I bought this in San Diego in 2011, flew in, and drove it home to Dallas, TX that weekend, where it has been since. It was garage kept for the first two years but now that I have another classic I have been alternating which gets to sleep indoors based on what I'm doing. It has a reasonably fresh paint job that looks amazing from 15 ft but has a few blemishes up close (see detailed photos). It runs and drives great, the 4WD works perfect, and she'll get up to 70-75 with the rubber overdrive (31" X10" Kumho all terrain tires, speedo reads 5 mph slow). I have to run premium during the summer because I think there's a slight vacuum leak that makes the #6 cylinder ping if you goose it going 60+ but get away with regular fuel in winter. There is NO structural rust but there are few spots bubbling through that would need some attention. The odometer reads 89k but hasn't worked since a few weeks after I bought it, speedo works fine though. Just a note - it has been de-smogged so I know it will not be street legal in CA. I haven't had a problem in TX (or Oregon where I also had a 78 de-smogged cruiser) but keep your state's emission requirements in mind when bidding. I think it'll be easier to list out the Pro's/upgrades and Cons. Pros and Upgrades: -Engine rebuilt in 2011 just before I bought it (compression test supported this) -4 wheel disc brakes installed a month ago ($400 parts + $200 labor) - I cannot say how nice of an upgrade this is! -New brake booster in 2012 ($450) -New brake master cylinder -New clutch master cylinder -New clutch in 2011 (~15k miles on it now) -Davis Unified Ignition HEI distributor tuned for 2F engine ($350) -Radiator rebuilt with new core (~$400) 2012 -Rear heater rebuilt with new core (~$100) 2012 -LED tailights, dashlights, blinkers, and running lights -H4 headlight bucket and halogen bulbs (so much better than the sealed beams) -Headlight relay circuit so headlights get full 14V - makes a huge difference -High Output 140 Amp distributor built last fall (~$200) -VERY, very straight body panels except where there are some bubbles and the passenger rear corner that got knocked -Strong, smooth running 2F - slight knock when cold that has been there for 3 years now without changing -Head was surfaced and valves checked (passed with flying colors) in 2012 -New transmission, transfer case and differential fluid all the way around -New U-joints in steering column -Very hard to find floor mats -New dash pad cover -Emissions removed -What rust is there is very treatable. -Frame and floor panels are excellent with only surface rust on the frame and a few spots on the floorboards (in pictures) -New window seal for tailgate window ($250) -Tailgate window works (though slowly...I think new wires from the dash to the window would fix this) -Solid brass tailgate motor gear (to replace break-prone original nylon gear) -All glass is good without cracks or bad scratches -Headliner is excellent (could use a wash here and there) -Very clean heater/radio panel that I will include with the sale -Carb rebuilt just before I got it in 2011 -Installed a hose connection between the transmission and transfer case to ensure proper fluid levels -Stainless steel roof trim is there, but was painted over -All cylinders checked in at 140+ PSI (more below) -Rhino lined floor boards and cargo area -Newer battery -Carb cooling fan wired into a manual switch Cons -Rust in corners of passenger door, tailgate, on two of the wheel flares, on one fender apron, and cracks in hood (all in photos). -Got clipped in the passenger rear corner right after I bought it. There's some bondo underneath but most of the car is straight metal -Driver side door stop broke with a gust of wind and door over-opened, causing the slight flare in the metal and spiderweb cracks in the paint -Slight knock in motor only when cold (this has been present since I got it in 2011 and has not increased in intensity) - more below -Window regulators are all functional but are nearing the end of their life. I have good used ones that can be bought if desired ($30 each) -Dried goo from removed window tinting on front passenger window - just needs a razor and some time -No sun visors but I have some and the bracket that I will throw in with the sale -Upholstery on driver side of bench seat is starting to go -No radio -Slight vacuum leak in rear of intake manifold. Drives fine but wants to hesitate when starting from a stop. (I think this is the cause) -Hi-Amp alternator means stock ammeter cannot work (would get fried) -Gas gauge reads empty when there's 3-4 gallons left (I think this is common) -Window felts need to be redone - I did the driver side but none of the others -Small windows in passenger doors could use a new seal -Slight rocker/tappet noise, less so once warmed -Rear bumper needs some aligning to get the hitch bolt-holes matched up -Rear passenger doors take a little extra push to close sometimes -When I redid the steering column u-joints I got the steering wheel out of alignment - a minor annoyance and I haven't re-aligned it yet I've tried to describe this to the best of my ability but seeing it in person is always the best route (I got lucky buying it sight-unseen in 2011). Please message me for my number or for any questions, to get any specific photos, or to schedule a time to look at or test drive it. I don't mind taking it to a mechanic but you must pay the bill. A note on the engine: In 2012 I had had enough of the knocking so I pulled the #6 piston and took it to a machine shop (crank surface looked good with no scoring). There were slight score marks on the cylinder walls and piston skirts. The machinist (Wayne Calvert of Calvert's machine shop in Denton, TX) checked it and OK'd it to reinstall. Before reassembly I honed the #6 cylinder and checked the ring gaps on the piston, everything came out fine (and that cylinder had the highest compression). The compression readings, taken in fall 2012 and again in spring 2013, are #1 155, #2 155, #3 150, #4 145, #5 140, #6 160 +/- a PSI or two. The factory service manual says a new engine should be around 145 PSI and that 113 PSI is the minimal acceptable compression. I have not noticed signs for concern (or change in the noises this motor usually makes) since reassembling the motor. The only thing I would do before a major road trip (it's already my daily driver) would be to have the intake/exhaust re-surfaced because the guy who did it the first time didn't torque the bolts holding them together, which is why I think they are a little out of alignment and are allowing a small vacuum leak. Otherwise this is a really strong 2F. I drove it from the West Coast and have driven it to Austin a few times and MO once or twice with no issues whatsoever. A note on spare parts: I have a few hard-to-find spare parts that I have accumulated with the couple of cruisers I've owned now. I will be willing to add in any of the following if we can come to terms on the price (basically somewhere close to what I paid for them less shipping etc. - still a way better price than if you buy them new) but they are not included in the sale price of this FJ55. -All new door, pillar, and kick panels (I think about ~$400 new, shipped) -The interior components of an original 76-78 FJ55 AC system, virtually impossible to find and this is the only one I've seen for sale in years -Window regulators -All new tie rods, center arm rebuild kit, and (I'm forgetting the name) relay rod from steering box to center arm. -Other miscellaneous stuff I can describe in person or on the phone You can find more photos here: FJ55 On May-29-15 at 11:46:53 PDT, seller added the following information: PS: I would also be very interested in a trade for a 3rd or 4th generation 4Runner. Preferably a 2006 with 4WD and the V8, but the V6 works too.