1970 Chevrolet Camaro

Rally Sport Coupe

350 cubic inch

4 speed Muncie

124870N525480

Clear

Gasoline

1970 Camaro Rally Sport -- the best Camaro year of all time. Good news 350 cubic inch performance camshaft Holley 750 double pumper single plenum intake Mickey Thompson valve covers HEI ignition 4 speed Muncie transmission spring-loaded Hurst shifter Chrome bumpers: front and rear bumpers are in excellent condition, with pretty good looking chrome and no dents. GT steering wheel rear spoiler like new front tires (Guardsman 205/75 R14) Comes with two black 15" circle track wheels that have never been mounted Comes with two like new mufflers (2 1/4 inch if I remember right) that are not installed Neutral news Comes with a pair of used headers that I bought at a garage sale. I don't know whether they fit. It has been about fifteen years since I've cranked the motor. I can't remember what the odometer says (I think it's in the 130,000 range; 140,000 is a conservative estimate). If I remember right, there's a dial you can turn to make the interior lights either green or orange. I didn't build the motor. I don't know whether the pistons or cylinder heads are stock or high-performance. When I used to drive it, it had a back-firing problem when decelerating. The car originally had an automatic transmission. In so far as you're interested in drag racing, you'll be happy to know that the rear shocks are tight and the front shocks are loose. Once upon a time, some of the exterior green was painted over with black spray paint that faded into a grayish color. Twenty years ago, I bought it for $2,000 from a guy who was willing to sell the motor by itself for $800, or the 4 speed Muncie transmission by itself for $400. In the back seat, there's a Holley 600 carb attached to an intake for a Mopar motor. The intake is cracked, but the carb is good -- needs a cleaning, though, as it has been sitting for 15 years. Bad news The rear axle is not posi-traction. No stereo No battery Windshield is cracked all over. Paint chipping off on left and right rear quarter panels. There might even be some bondo in there. Rubber front (that sticks out in front of grille) had a cut that somebody glued back together and which isn't perfect Dents on driver door Seats have some rips Rear tires are worn out Some of the bolts that the lug nuts screw onto are broken (cheap fix, but hey) At least one of the plastic front grilles is broken. Hood is dented, apparently from somebody shutting it while having a protruding air cleaner bolt. The rear of the driver-side bucket seat isn't fixed; so the seat lunges forward when you brake. I lost the key. When I lost the key, I rigged up two switches: one to turn on the ignition; the other to crank the starter. Without the key, the steering wheel was locked, so I put a screwdriver in the key hole and hit it with a hammer until it unlocked. I never bothered figuring out a way to open the trunk: hopefully there's no treasure! Rusty (see pictures) Speedometer doesn't work Some of the header pipes were a bit squished when I bought it, so I sawed a couple of them off, thinking it's better to be short than to be half-way constricted. Finally, about fifteen years ago, I bought a classified ad to sell it. The night before the ad ran, I filled on gas. It started right up (as always), but as I started driving the electrical system died: the motor quit, the lights went out, and the battery (which was new) died (a voltmeter showed it as having 0 volts). SAFETY PRECAUTION If you buy this car, please be safe. The motor is powerful, and don't ask me how I know this but it can burn a lot of rubber. From a standstill, if you pop the clutch, the rear end will move slowly with little forward acceleration, and the car's interior quickly fills up with smoke and stench from burnt rubber. When you drag race, it's a thrill shifting into each subsequent gear, as the front end rises a bit each time: the tires don't lift off the ground, but it has a lot of torque and the front shocks are loose. Altogether, I'd say it drives like a car in a video game. BUT: remember how I unlocked the steering wheel after I lost the key? Recall: I put a screwdriver in the key hole and hit it with a hammer a bunch of times. I have no idea whether my unlocking job was sufficient to make it never lock up again, so MAKE SURE IT'S FIXED SO THAT IT DOESN'T LOCK UP WHEN SOMEBODY'S DRIVING IT. Get a new ignition switch from a junkyard or something. Know what you are getting yourself into! The car needs work! You can't just show up, plop a battery in it, and drive away. You need to tow it away, partly because something is screwy with the wiring, and partly because it has been sitting for 15 years and so you should rebuild the motor before you start cranking it up. Also, all sales are final. If you win the auction, you are thereby agreeing to buy the car as-is. The order of operations will be as follows: 1. You win the auction and pay the $500 non-refundable deposit via PayPal. 2. You pay the remaining balance by sending me a cashier's check. 3. When I receive the payment, I will send you the title withing one business day. 4. You register the car in your name, show me the paperwork that you did this, and arrange a time to tow away the car. From the time you win the auction, you have 30 days to tow away the car. If you have any questions, please ask! I have 100% positive feedback.