1934 Ford Other

Roadster/3 Window Coupe Roadster/3 Window Coupe

1954 Lincoln Y Block 317 cu/in V8

Manual

960445

Clear

Gasoline

CLICK HERE FOR MORE PICTURES CLICK HERE FOR A VIDEO Up for auction is my 1934 Ford Roadster. It started life out as a 3 Window Coupe, but somewhere along the line some idiot cut the roof off (poorly). It is an old hot rod that looks like it was built in the 1950's, but I have no history on it. It is rough around the edges, but turns heads wherever it goes. It is not a daily driver. It is a running/driving PROJECT and should be treated as such. There will be no test drives, you can test drive it all you like after you get it off of your trailer at your home. I have driven this car a whopping 10 miles since I got it back together, and while it was really FUN, it was also very scary. It should be completely gone through before relying on in traffic from both safety and reliability standpoints. It is currently registered and insured in my name. Ebay made me select a title condition so I selected "clear." CT does not require or issue titles for cars built before 1981, so this will be sold with bill of sale only. There is no title for this vehicle regardless of the title condition noted above. Mileage is also unknown, as the speedometer was replaced. I will try to describe the car to the best of my ability, but please feel free to contact me through Ebay if you have any further questions. Here are the main details: Body: - 1934 Ford steel 3 window coupe body (sans roof and windshield posts) - Body is solid mounted to the frame, it is rattles quite a bit going down the road - Rocker, quarter, and cowl patch panels installed at some point on the past - Doors are very rough. Passenger door is bolted shut, I have never tried to open it - Included are two brand new lower door patch panels - Driver's side door has a bear claw type latch that seems to work ok. Door still pretty sloppy when closed. - Someone made custom wood inserts for the door tops and behind the seats - Various rough rusted spots noted in the pictures - Some moron welded in a 1940's windshield frame which I cut out. That area is rough and in primer - Grille is an original 1934 Ford, would probably polish up a little - Trunk has no latch and the inner support is rotted out - Trunk hinges are not original and need to be tightened - Grille has a couple of bent/detached bars, but better condition than most - Maybe you or someone you know has a 3W roof that you can use to fix this poor thing? Interior: - Aluminum army bomber type seats covered in foam and canvas. Not sure what they are from, but they are legit army seats - Unknown steering wheel and column - Wood floor with access to brake and clutch master under the cover on the driver's side - Functional Speedometer, coolant temp, and oil pressure gauge. Also present are two ammeter gauges and some weird aircraft gauge (these are not hooked up, I never tried them) Engine/Transmission/Rear End: - 1954 Lincoln Y block V8 317 cubic inch (unknown mileage - this is a REAL hot rod lincoln) - Good oil pressure (15 psi hot) - Fresh oil change with shorty WIX filter to clear steering box - Custom made headers (raw mild steel, looks cool with the heat discoloration, but will need to be painted soon to prevent surface rust) - Driver's side head had a burned exhaust valve when I got it. Replaced it with one new exhaust valve, and a new head gasket on that side. I can include the unused passenger side head gasket if I can find it. - Stock 4 barrel carb, manual choke (runs well but will sputter/hiccup when you really get on it) - New chopped aluminum radiator - Fresh coolant - New Radiator hoses and thermostat - Cut, rotated, and welded thermostat housing to line up straight with neck on radiator. Welds weep slightly, I was just going to add some stop leak and call it a day - Borg Warner 3 speed trans w/ overdrive, not sure what this trans came out of (O/D not hooked up, never attempted to try it) - Custom (OLD) aluminum adapter plate, engine to bellhousing - Trans grinds going into 3rd and sounds something like a bad bearing (howling) only in 3rd gear around 40+ mph when throttle is applied - Clutch feels ok (hydraulic), underneath the car, the clutch inspection/dust cover is missing - Rear end has an open drive conversion - Not sure what year the rear end is, but it is a banjo style, probably 1930's - Fuel tank located in the trunk Steering/Suspension/Brakes: - All new drag link, tie rod, and steering arm (hoop) with new greasable tie rod ends - Pitman arm from a 1938 ford, re-clocked to correct position and slightly bent to clear the frame - Steering box is sloppy. I never tried to adjust the slop out - 1935 Ford unsplit wishbone with forward spring mounts cut off - 1935 Ford heated/dropped axle (this was run on one of my friend's drag cars when he was in highschool in the 1950's) - New dropped/reverse eye front spring, new shackles and perch pins - Round back spindles with good king pins and decent bearings - Spindle steering arms heated and dropped for the tie rod to clear the wishbone - Small 5 brake drums front and rear - New front wheel cylinders, decent front shoes - I never had the rears apart to take a look at them - Rear emergency brake works ok but does not lock solid - probably needs adjustment - Rear torque arms split and attached to the frame with tierod ends - Brakes are very soft and need to be bled again/possibly have fluid changed (fluid looks a bit nasty) Frame: - Frame is an original (as far as I know) 1934 Ford with legible VIN number - Kicked up quite a bit in the rear (oldschool) - Overall pretty solid but does have some perforations/pitting - Someone painted it chassis black and did an ok job - All flathead mounting points look to be intact, you could put a flathead back in without major issue Wheels/Tires: - Front tires are good used Firestone 600-16's - Rear tires are brand new Firestone 750-16's - 4 brand new inner tubes - Wheels are 1950's Ford steel, black painted with factory red triple pinstripe around the center - Included are 4 aluminum trim rings, if you like that look (I like the black wheel look) - Could use rear spacers, rear tires hit the quarter panel body line on bumps Electrical/Lighting: - Wiring is VERY basic (headlights and rear brake light) - Rear brake light nonfunctional (never looked into it) - In general, all wiring is not well organized and would benefit from one of those painless wiring kits - Battery is brand new Overall, this car is badass. With a little bit of work, it could be safely back on the road. It is sold as-is, and all sales are final. I have put forth my best effort to accurately describe/disclose everything that I know about the car. $500 deposit (nonrefundable) due via paypal within 72 hours of auction close. I would prefer full payment in cash, but would accept a cashier's check with time to clear. I would accept paypal as a last resort if discussed FIRST. If you need to pay via paypal, you will be responsible for eating the paypal fees that I would incur. Full payment must be received within 14 days from end of auction, and the vehicle must be picked up with 14 days as well. Please contact me with any questions. The car is also listed locally so I reserve the right to end the auction early due to local sale. On Jul-06-14 at 12:12:05 PDT, seller added the following information: I wanted to mention that I found some satin brown spray paint so I touched up the area around the top of the cowl/windshield frame area with it to make a blend in a little better with the rest of the body. Also, I forgot to mention that it has a brand new "towing" style fan. cruising it will see about 180 degrees F, sitting and idling it will climb to about 200 degrees F.On Jul-10-14 at 03:09:24 PDT, seller added the following information: I want to answer a few more common questions that I have been getting. Sorry, but I will not take trades on the car I am selling due to needing the money. Also a lot of people have been asking about the condition of the body. As the pictures show and as I described above, the body certainly needs some work. It rattles around going down the road, mostly due to the poorly latched door and no latch on the trunk. I highlighted the bad spots in the pics, but overall the metal has thinned out a little because it was probably sitting outside for most of its life. I would probably add some more cowl bracing to the frame/sub-floor area if I were to keep it. it is certainly a saveable/workable body and the right person could really bring it back to life. That being said, some people prefer the "rat" look and could just fix the doors and leave it as is...up to you!