1970 Ford Mustang

Mach 1 Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

0R05M150952

Gasoline

Condition Nearly 100% original, blue-plate California M-code with 63,467 miles on it. BODY: Super solid body with only light surface rust and no major body damage. Superb restoration candidate! The drivetrain has already been restored. Just needs minor body work, paint, and some interior work. The two front fenders and the right-rear quarter panel were re-painted long before I bought the car in 1999. There is no apparent sign of body damage to those panels, though, other than a small bit of bondo on the left-front fender. The front edge of the hood is damaged and its chrome is gone. The right-front corner peice is primer gray (apparently a replacement from when the hood also got crunched). The glass is all in great shape.INSIDE: The black interior is in very good shape for its age. The driver's seat has a wear hole in the vinyl, the steering wheel's inserts have fallen out, and the headliner got chewed by mice. Other than that, it looks great! I installed a new dash pad, because the California sun dried out and cracked the old one, and I had to go in after the heater core anyway. New copper heater core and control cables. There's an after-market stereo and a couple of door speakers from the 1980s. Owner's manual is in the console.DRIVETRAIN: The 351 Cleveland 4V and FMX transmission are freshly rebuilt with 0 miles. I rebuilt the after-market Holley single-pumper that was on the car when I bought it, but the previous owner just shipped me the original D0 Autolite carb that he recently discovered in his parents' garden shed. I removed the fuel tank, had it professionally cleaned (which didn't take much), and re-installed it with a new sending unit. I was going to restore the air cleaner, but it has a California emissions decal on it that I could not locate, so you'll get the un-restored, original air cleaner, plus the other decals that I bought from Mustangs Unlimited. I'd like to see this car go to someone who can properly adjust the timing, fuel mixture, etc. to get her running her best. (I'm just a lowly VW nerd.)I’ve owned this Mach 1 for 12 years, kept it stored indoors the entire time, and have never driven it out of my driveway. The early 1980s-era Armstrong tires look nice and hold air, but I don't trust them enough to take the car for a spin. History I bought this car from a friend in California in August of 1999, after it had sat in his parents’ driveway since 1986. It was non-operable when I bought it, so I trailered it home. I recently asked him about the accuracy of the odometer, and here’s what he wrote back: “I believe 63,xxx is likely correct. But if the numbers did flip, it was before I owned it. As I recall, the registration papers supported that the odometer was correct. “I got the Mustang after I turned 18 and was a senior in High School, so that would have been early 1982. I got my `85 Honda CRX Si in mid 1985 [and] I pretty much parked the Mustang once I got the CRX, so I only drove the Mach 1 for just over 3 years, and never on any trips. (Mostly used to get to school and work and cruise El Camino in San Mateo on Friday nights! Can't imagine that I could have put more than 10K on it. After `87, I registered that car as non-operable for at least a few years. “I don't know a lot about the car from it's previous owner(s). I know there was at least one previous owner, but there could have been more. The person I bought it from was probably too young to be the original owner, so I would guess I was likely the third owner.” I had the car shipped to Minnesota in July 2001, where it has been stored indoors ever since. I intended to do a complete restoration on the car, but only got as far as the drivetrain. My preference is to keep the car, but finances and space limitations compel me to sell her :( This would be a super easy restoration for someone else to finish up! I posted a couple of videos of the car on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hPgk1_Zg-M http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MT_pQBDWiq4I tried posting a longer walk-around video today, but it hasn't finished processing yet. I will hopefully add that link tomorrow... 351 Cleveland 4V Professionally machined, balanced, and rebuiltBored .030 overSealed Power hypereutectic pistonsSealed Power moly ringsCrane roller liftersHigher torque fuel efficient Crane billet camMelling high-volume pump, pick-up, and driveClevite 77 rod and main bearings .010 overARP rod boltsCloyes heavy duty rollover timing chain and gearsManley stainless steel valvesNew valve guides and seatsNew water pump FMX Automatic TransmissionProfessionally overhauledNew rear band, forward drum, direct drumShift improver kitLow roller clutchNew modulator, filters, gaskets, etc. RadiatorTriple-coreProfessionally re-cored (original tanks) Fuel tankProfessionally cleanedNew fuel sending unit LOTS of New Parts...Heater core and foam gasketsHeater control cablesDual exhaustPertronix distributorPertronix Flamethrower coilAutolite voltage regulatorStarterAlternatorFuel pumpBelts, hoses, plug wires, etc....And I've kept all the old parts in a box for you! What’s Broken/Not Working?Minor body damage (e.g., hood; see video)Minor interior damage (e.g., driver’s seat, headliner; see video)Right-front turn signal lens is crackedCourtesy lights don’t turn on when driver’s door is openTires need to be replaced On Oct-09-11 at 10:27:34 PDT, seller added the following information: The third time was a charm, and I got the virtual walkaround video successfully uploaded to YouTube!: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJqJWtc_X28 Also note that I added three new photos. You can see from one of them that you also get the original Autolite carb, spare tire, and jack. You might be able to see the unusual sticker on the air cleaner (regarding the Graco "air computer"). That's the decal that held me up from restoring the air cleaner.On Oct-11-11 at 07:21:31 PDT, seller added the following information: I received a request to provide the information from the data tag on the driver's door. I posted a new photo that shows the data tag, but it's hard to read. (It looks like there was another sticker on top of this one.) When I zoomed in on the photo on my PC, I could read the codes. Here they are: BODY 63C = Mach 1COL 2 = Light Ivy YellowTRIM 3A = BlackAXLE 9 = 3.25:1 StdTRNS Z = FMXDSO 72 = San Jose, CA On Oct-11-11 at 09:45:26 PDT, seller added the following information: A fellow eBayer suggested that I post a direct link to this YouTube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdwSetKsse0 I didn't think much of it at the time, but this guy says that even 1 minute of operation with zero oil pressure could damage the bearings. I ran it for 5-10 minutes before I noticed that the oil pressure gauge was at zero. As you can see from the video, I corrected the problem and the car ran fine. No over-heating, no odd noises. However, I totally understand if anyone might be skeptical and would retract their bid out of concern for the state of the bearings. If this is a serious point of concern for people, I can drop the oil pan again and inspect/replace the crank bearings. But if I do that, it'll mean canceling this auction and relisting it later (because I can't do that work before Saturday, when the auction is due to end). Please feel free to send me a message if you have any concerns.Thanks!