1992 Nissan 300ZX

Twin Turbo Coupe

6 - Cyl.

Manual

JN1RZ24H4NX521443

Clear

Gasoline

QUICKEST, fastest and most modded Z on Ebay! This setup has been proven by others to generate 600 RWHP. I never got to the point where the car was tuned and ready for dyno, but the butt-dyno at 12 PSI is insane! Imagine it at 22 PSI!! I am the owner of the former Z modification shop MWS Motorsports . I put a few videos online that were downloaded by the thousands. Turbo swaps, brake kit, and NA rear-end swap, to name a few --they still get hits years later. This car was my shop car, before I shut down in 2007 and went back to my day job in Silicon Valley. I hate to sell it, but the arrival of my son makes any more tweaking and finishing this car no longer a priority. Blah blah blah, you get the picture. Car is California smogged, and ready to go. Registration due in October Non-Smoking car. Title is clean, paid for, and in my hand. Miles on chassis: 150,XXX Never been dragged, dyno-ed, raced or tracked Abuse is limited to the kind of driving you see in the video. No drifting. No sideshows. No "11"s. Call these guys to arrange shipping of the car. They can usually do door to door in most cases and for a reasonable price: Auto Transport Direct Check out this video I made for your Internet Test-Drive. Picture gallery of the car with more pix than the Ebay ad: Picture Gallery Picture gallery of paint flaws: Paint Gallery Picture gallery of interior panel flaws in the rear hatch area only. These parts are cheap and plentiful: Interior Gallery NOTE: right off the bat I will tell you: the engine block bottom end was recently rebuilt after a rod knock issue, but the machine shop seems to have screwed the pooch on the rod bearing sizing and after barely 1000 miles, it has rod knock again. It's very much drivable, as the video shows, but the buyer will need to pull the engine and have the rods and rod bearings looked at. Engine has great compression, and the heads, and every single other part on the motor are all almost new. Rings are barely even broken in. Recommendation: Have Specialty Z rebuild the block. They are the ONLY ones I trust to make a block properly for this car. Also, HAVE THEM TUNE IT. I believe the reason rod knock occurred in the first place, is because the standard JWT tune for this configuration runs lean around 14 psi and above. If you can, just send the car to Specialty-Z, and have them do all the work. Stay away from other nationally known Z shops. They will not do as nice a job. MORE NOTES: A/C is not working--but did when I last had it running. I did not charge it back up after the last engine replacement. Expansion valve was replaced recently (NOT a fun job) Small oil leak from rear of engine, probably due to boost in the crank case during ring break-in of piston rings popping the oil seal on the rear main out, a bit. It happens, especially with larger turbos. Carfax does not show it, but the car has had a minor accident where I hit black ice at 40 mph on a mountain road and the front and back got crunched a bit. The facias had to be replaced with brand-new OEM peices, along with some repair to the front facia support. No primary frame-rail damage. All parts fit perfectly straight. The brand-new stock front facia appears to not have been prepped quite right. The paint comes off on it's own in the lower areas. See pictures. But I imagine someone will be adding a new facia at some point, anyways. THE GOOD STUFF: Exterior: ? Basically a complete resto-mod. I defy you to walk up to the car and find a trim part that looks worn. ? Custom Mazda RX-7 paint: Competition Yellow Mica, a three-stage that has a pearl finish. It's painted CORRECTLY. The ENTIRE interior and engine removed. Engine bay, all door sills, the area under the black plastic wiper grates. Anywhere someone can look to see what color it used to be, they won't be able to tell, unless you let them under the car, or remove the interior. ? All new rubber seals on front and rear windshields. New rain gutter covers, new rubber trim everywhere. New stock urethane rear spoiler. I spent hundreds on trim and fasteners, alone. ? New rear quarter windows ? All new stickers and emblems. ? Windows removed and window track buttons replaced to get rid of window rattle. ? New J-Sepc rear taillights. (slight acetone splash on center panel, could use a plastic polishing) ? LED Angel Eyes. ? Brake calipers disassembled and properly powder-coated with hi-temp Yellow powdercoat, not cheap caliper paint. Cool electronics: ? J&S Knock Sensor (a MUST to help prevent future meltdowns with any Z motor) http://www.jandssafeguard.com/8ChInterceptor/8ChannelInterceptor.html ? HKS EVC-EZ Boost Controller--simply the best, set it for boost, no spikes, and forget about tweaking it ? MWS-SMC alcohol injection kit (for hot days and race days, not recommended for constant use) ? Tein EDC 16-way adjustable shock controller ? Selin dual-MAF translator, one of the cheapest and BEST mods I've ever done! Turbo and exhaust mods: ? JWT Sport 700 turbos with .69 A/R ratio (they spool WAY quicker than the .89 A/R and still do 600 RWHP) ? MSP Manifolds ? Exhaust valve exit ports have been heavily opened up to meet the size of the MSP Manifolds as per recommendation by Mike Smith of MSP. ? Specialty-Z Expansion Downpipes ? My own custom 3" mid-pipes with stock cats cut and welded to them, exhaust tapers to 2.5" which is what most people do wit this setup. ? 2.5" Greddy Exhaust with my own custom Spintech X-pipe section to cut down bass drone. Still flows like mad, but is very VERY quiet! Greddy stock X-pipe comes with as well-- if you want your 3000 RPM drone back. If you put on the X-pipe and 3" straight pipes (no cats) the car bellows like the trombone section of the L.A. Philharmonic, and is LOUD at WOT. ? Stillen Side-mount Intercoolers. Standard sized IC and turbo inlet tubing and hoses. ? MWS hardline boost control tubing and hoses (like any other turbo car in the world). Replaces miles and miles of rubber hose in the engine bay with short steel lines and shorter silicone hose. Only a retard from Sacramento would not understand the benefit of this. Engine and Drivetran mods: ? Custom-made short-skirt Wiseco forged pistons with custom tapered edge wrist pins for extra light weight. ? JWT 400+ cams. Great mid-range AND high end, plus smooth idle. ? BDE custom VTC intake cam sprockets. Adjustable and rebuildable. ? New lifters ? Eagle rods ? NA oil squirters ? Larger custom oil cooler ? NISMO 740cc injectors with 1994 LIM. LIM custom ported to fit 1992 TT heads. ? MWS plug connectors on all 2-prong engine bay connections. No more green powder build-up or cracking connectors when working on engine. Squeeze-to-release. No more spring clips flying around and getting lost. Easier on the fingers. ? PTU wires customized to get rid of the recall-bypass plug mess, and relocated to intake bay to reduce heat. ? Coil-pack connectors all recently replaced with stock, new, fresh connectors. ? Entire engine harness black tape freshened up. ? Water passage from front to back of engine block ground out and smoothed. ? Oil jets in block replaced during machining to prevent blockage by machining dust. ? Standard-sized throttle bodies and plenum, to prevent loss of low and mid-range torque. ? Standard-sized valves to prevent loss of low and mid-range torque. ? RPS segmented aluminum flywheel ? RPS Custom Quick-Shift Hyrbid light-weight clutch. Yes, the clutch is also light-weight for extra-quick throttle, shifting and an amazing effect on turbo spool-up. ? TT clutch vacuum assist with brand-new vacuum booster and all new hoses (well more than $600 in parts) ? JWT custom ECU, but recommend a custom tune just for this car. Interior: ? MR2 Spyder cloth seats, custom-fit to the standard bolts on the Z. They are adjustable for forward-back, tilt and up-down, like a 350Z seat. I am 6'5" and now have a few inches of extra headroom. Not to mention each seat weighs 20 lbs less than stock!! http://mwsmotorsports.com/z32/spyder/spyderseats.html ? Sound insulation from the gas pedal back to the rear deck lid. See video. No insulation on firewall or engine bay or front spaceframe. ? Steering wheel, Shifter, Parking Brake handle have all been re-leathered with real leather, perf leather and yellow stitching. Not the cheap stuff or cheap workmanship. Dallascustomsteeringwheel.com ? All controls for lights and Hvac, as well as entire interior, including dash, replaced by the cleanest parts car I have ever seen. ? Stereo is set up for 4 speaker, plus a sub plate I built to cover the spare tire well. The amp currently is whining (but it works), because I accidentally touched one the sub leads to ground. Replace the amp and you'll be wired up for 5-channel sound. Suspension and Brakes: ? Tein 16-way coilers front and rear. I have a spare set of extra light tension springs I have not had the chance to try. They would make it so the different settings on the shocks are even more noticeable. ? Front Stillen urethane UCAs, and a set of spare PowerTrix solid-bushing UCAs. ? Tension rods with urethane bushings, and a spare set of PowerTrix Adjustable tension rods. ? Rear UCAs by PowerTrix. ? NA rear end with 4:10 gear ration and no HICAS ? One-peice MWS PowerTrain Industries custom 3" driveshaft, with rebuildable, sealed-bearing Spicer joints. ? MWS front brake kit: 12.1" and fits under STOCK Z RIMS--perfect for track days on a budget. ? Have a spare front adjustable sway bar, Car currently has stock for less harsh feel. ? 18" staggered ADR rims http://www.adrwheels.ca/battleexe.html ? Twin Turbo steering rack with 2.4 turns stop-to-stop, instead of the 2.7 for NA steering rack. On Sep-06-11 at 07:31:25 PDT, seller added the following information: QUICKEST, fastest and most modded Z on Ebay! This setup has been proven by others to generate 600 RWHP. I never got to the point where the car was tuned and ready for dyno, but the butt-dyno at 12 PSI is insane! Imagine it at 22 PSI!! I am the owner of the former Z modification shop MWS Motorsports . I put a few videos online that were downloaded by the thousands. Turbo swaps, brake kit, and NA rear-end swap, to name a few --they still get hits years later. This car was my shop car, before I shut down in 2007 and went back to my day job in Silicon Valley. I hate to sell it, but the arrival of my son makes any more tweaking and finishing this car no longer a priority. Blah blah blah, you get the picture. Car is California smogged, and ready to go. Registration due in October Non-Smoking car. Title is clean, paid for, and in my hand. Miles on chassis: 150,XXX Never been dragged, dyno-ed, raced or tracked Abuse is limited to the kind of driving you see in the video. No drifting. No sideshows. No "11"s. Call these guys to arrange shipping of the car. They can usually do door to door in most cases and for a reasonable price: Auto Transport Direct Check out this video I made for your Internet Test-Drive. Picture gallery of the car with more pix than the Ebay ad: Picture Gallery Picture gallery of paint flaws: Paint Gallery Picture gallery of interior panel flaws in the rear hatch area only. These parts are cheap and plentiful: Interior Gallery NOTE: right off the bat I will tell you: the engine block bottom end was recently rebuilt after a rod knock issue, but the machine shop seems to have screwed the pooch on the rod bearing sizing and after barely 1000 miles, it has rod knock again. It's very much drivable, as the video shows, but the buyer will need to pull the engine and have the rods and rod bearings looked at. Engine has great compression, and the heads, and every single other part on the motor are all almost new. Rings are barely even broken in. Recommendation: Have Specialty Z rebuild the block. They are the ONLY ones I trust to make a block properly for this car. Also, HAVE THEM TUNE IT. I believe the reason rod knock occurred in the first place, is because the standard JWT tune for this configuration runs lean around 14 psi and above. If you can, just send the car to Specialty-Z, and have them do all the work. Stay away from other nationally known Z shops. They will not do as nice a job. MORE NOTES: A/C is not working--but did when I last had it running. I did not charge it back up after the last engine replacement. Expansion valve was replaced recently (NOT a fun job) Small oil leak from rear of engine, probably due to boost in the crank case during ring break-in of piston rings popping the oil seal on the rear main out, a bit. It happens, especially with larger turbos. Carfax does not show it, but the car has had a minor accident where I hit black ice at 40 mph on a mountain road and the front and back got crunched a bit. The facias had to be replaced with brand-new OEM peices, along with some repair to the front facia support. No primary frame-rail damage. All parts fit perfectly straight. The brand-new stock front facia appears to not have been prepped quite right. The paint comes off on it's own in the lower areas. See pictures. But I imagine someone will be adding a new facia at some point, anyways. THE GOOD STUFF: Exterior: ? Basically a complete resto-mod. I defy you to walk up to the car and find a trim part that looks worn. ? Custom Mazda RX-7 paint: Competition Yellow Mica, a three-stage that has a pearl finish. It's painted CORRECTLY. The ENTIRE interior and engine removed. Engine bay, all door sills, the area under the black plastic wiper grates. Anywhere someone can look to see what color it used to be, they won't be able to tell, unless you let them under the car, or remove the interior. ? All new rubber seals on front and rear windshields. New rain gutter covers, new rubber trim everywhere. New stock urethane rear spoiler. I spent hundreds on trim and fasteners, alone. ? New rear quarter windows ? All new stickers and emblems. ? Windows removed and window track buttons replaced to get rid of window rattle. ? New J-Sepc rear taillights. (slight acetone splash on center panel, could use a plastic polishing) ? LED Angel Eyes. ? Brake calipers disassembled and properly powder-coated with hi-temp Yellow powdercoat, not cheap caliper paint. Cool electronics: ? J&S Knock Sensor (a MUST to help prevent future meltdowns with any Z motor) http://www.jandssafeguard.com/8ChInterceptor/8ChannelInterceptor.html ? HKS EVC-EZ Boost Controller--simply the best, set it for boost, no spikes, and forget about tweaking it ? MWS-SMC alcohol injection kit (for hot days and race days, not recommended for constant use) ? Tein EDC 16-way adjustable shock controller ? Selin dual-MAF translator, one of the cheapest and BEST mods I've ever done! Turbo and exhaust mods: ? JWT Sport 700 turbos with .64 A/R ratio (they spool WAY quicker than the .86 A/R and still do 600 RWHP) ? MSP Manifolds ? Exhaust valve exit ports have been heavily opened up to meet the size of the MSP Manifolds as per recommendation by Mike Smith of MSP. ? Specialty-Z Expansion Downpipes ? My own custom 3" mid-pipes with stock cats cut and welded to them, exhaust tapers to 2.5" which is what most people do wit this setup. ? 2.5" Greddy Exhaust with my own custom Spintech X-pipe section to cut down bass drone. Still flows like mad, but is very VERY quiet! Greddy stock X-pipe comes with as well-- if you want your 3000 RPM drone back. If you put on the X-pipe and 3" straight pipes (no cats) the car bellows like the trombone section of the L.A. Philharmonic, and is LOUD at WOT. ? Stillen Side-mount Intercoolers. Standard sized IC and turbo inlet tubing and hoses. ? MWS hardline boost control tubing and hoses (like any other turbo car in the world). Replaces miles and miles of rubber hose in the engine bay with short steel lines and shorter silicone hose. Only a retard from Sacramento would not understand the benefit of this. Engine and Drivetran mods: ? Custom-made short-skirt Wiseco forged pistons with custom tapered edge wrist pins for extra light weight. ? JWT 400+ cams. Great mid-range AND high end, plus smooth idle. ? BDE custom VTC intake cam sprockets. Adjustable and rebuildable. ? New lifters ? Eagle rods ? NA oil squirters ? Larger custom oil cooler ? NISMO 740cc injectors with 1994 LIM. LIM custom ported to fit 1992 TT heads. ? MWS plug connectors on all 2-prong engine bay connections. No more green powder build-up or cracking connectors when working on engine. Squeeze-to-release. No more spring clips flying around and getting lost. Easier on the fingers. ? PTU wires customized to get rid of the recall-bypass plug mess, and relocated to intake bay to reduce heat. ? Coil-pack connectors all recently replaced with stock, new, fresh connectors. ? Entire engine harness black tape freshened up. ? Water passage from front to back of engine block ground out and smoothed. ? Oil jets in block replaced during machining to prevent blockage by machining dust. ? Standard-sized throttle bodies and plenum, to prevent loss of low and mid-range torque. ? Standard-sized valves to prevent loss of low and mid-range torque. ? RPS segmented aluminum flywheel ? RPS Custom Quick-Shift Hyrbid light-weight clutch. Yes, the clutch is also light-weight for extra-quick throttle, shifting and an amazing effect on turbo spool-up. ? TT clutch vacuum assist with brand-new vacuum booster and all new hoses (well more than $600 in parts) ? JWT custom ECU, but recommend a custom tune just for this car. Interior: ? MR2 Spyder cloth seats, custom-fit to the standard bolts on the Z. They are adjustable for forward-back, tilt and up-down, like a 350Z seat. I am 6'5" and now have a few inches of extra headroom. Not to mention each seat weighs 20 lbs less than stock!! http://mwsmotorsports.com/z32/spyder/spyderseats.html ? Sound insulation from the gas pedal back to the rear deck lid. See video. No insulation on firewall or engine bay or front spaceframe. ? Steering wheel, Shifter, Parking Brake handle have all been re-leathered with real leather, perf leather and yellow stitching. Not the cheap stuff or cheap workmanship. Dallascustomsteeringwheel.com ? All controls for lights and Hvac, as well as entire interior, including dash, replaced by the cleanest parts car I have ever seen. ? Stereo is set up for 4 speaker, plus a sub plate I built to cover the spare tire well. The amp currently is whining (but it works), because I accidentally touched one the sub leads to ground. Replace the amp and you'll be wired up for 5-channel sound. Suspension and Brakes: ? Tein 16-way coilers front and rear. I have a spare set of extra light tension springs I have not had the chance to try. They would make it so the different settings on the shocks are even more noticeable. ? Front Stillen urethane UCAs, and a set of spare PowerTrix solid-bushing UCAs. ? Tension rods with urethane bushings, and a spare set of PowerTrix Adjustable tension rods. ? Rear UCAs by PowerTrix. ? NA rear end with 4:10 gear ration and no HICAS ? One-peice MWS PowerTrain Industries custom 3" driveshaft, with rebuildable, sealed-bearing Spicer joints. ? MWS front brake kit: 12.1" and fits under STOCK Z RIMS--perfect for track days on a budget. ? Have a spare front adjustable sway bar, Car currently has stock for less harsh feel. ? 18" staggered ADR rims http://www.adrwheels.ca/battleexe.html ? Twin Turbo steering rack with 2.4 turns stop-to-stop, instead of the 2.7 for NA steering rack. On Sep-06-11 at 12:50:16 PDT, seller added the following information: Apologies for the double-description. Was trying to edit the A/R ratios for the Sport 700 turbos. Ebay is lame and won't allow you to remove or edit text, only add text. So, out of respect for all you buyers--who have spent so much time and attention watching the vid and taking this seriously, the ad will have two descriptions for the remainder of the auction, rather than stop the auction and re-list "Sell Similar" and have to start all over. -MWSOn Sep-06-11 at 18:36:11 PDT, seller added the following information: The embedded Youtube video profiling the car seems to fail with IE, so here's a direct link: http://youtu.be/kLBv-SBBxN4?hd=1On Sep-11-11 at 20:12:47 PDT, seller added the following information: Ladies and Gentlemen. First off… thanks for all your generous bids and fantastic supporting comments on the auction and the video. You folks rock! No, YOU rock, No… Really. I feel I should communicate with everyone at the same time, since I like to shoot straight. You all want to know about the reserve, right? And people keep asking me if there is a "Buy It Now" Price. Well, I can answer that…. Take a look at this auction: Ebay item number 200648532661 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200648532661&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Everyone keeps asking me what the reserve on my car is. It's fairly high right now, and I was inclined to lower it substantially and get things moving, until I saw the above auction. Now, I will probably not lower my reserve or post a Buy It Now price, until I see the above car sell on Monday before noon PST, and my adjusted reserve will be higher than the final price on that car (unless it sells for more than my reserve which might make me barf--but at least I've met my reserve). I can't believe my car is worth the same or less than that car--even though mine needs to have the rod bearings looked at. Look, I know you people are not bidding on that car, and you're not the cause of my current mental anguish… but you are making a statement about what my car is worth, relative to the other 300ZXs on Ebay. Besides the obviously poor cosmetic condition of the above vehicle--and rust on the T-tops; the claims regarding it's HP potential are false. Sport 550s are not capable of 600 HP under any conditions: https://specialtyz.com/shop/300zx/turbo/jwt-sport-550s.html "Capable of making 380+ RWHP on 91 octane fuel with supporting modifications. Capable of 470+ RWHP on race fuel. As with any engine, supporting modifications in the areas of cams, exhaust, and intercooler\piping all make a huge difference in spool and power." Who knows, from looking at the above auction if it even "has" the supporting hardware necessary to let those turbos breathe? My car has sport 700s which, when tuned and with the boost maxed, can easily measure 600 RWHP, and more like 700 at the crank- (with supporting hardware) -which is why they are called "700s". https://specialtyz.com/shop/300zx/turbo/jwt-sport-700s.html My car does have the 740cc injectors, MSP manifolds, the Specialty-Z expansion downpipes, and 3" mid-pipes, plus the Selin Dual-MAF translator, and the JWT 400+ cams, and BDE VTC sprockets, along with not only an RPS lightweight flywheel, but a custom RPS lightweight clutch. All these work together to allow the turbos to be very streetable, and create a ton of power. My car makes as much (or more) power at 12 psi as that car does at max boost. Besides the obviously false HP claims, the description for the auction above contains obvious gaffes like "new timing chain"; proving that the car is obviously being sold by a third party with no clue about Z32 300ZXs, a guy who does not know or care about the car. Show me you folks want my car, and I will work with you. Show me that a car like the one above is worth more and I will not budge on my reserve. I'm not an idiot, I know the economy sucks. But, the more time I expose this car and that video to the world, the more likely I am to find that one dude with some dough, who understands the value of what I am selling here. I only need one buyer. I'd like to sell the car with just this round. As Dr. Evil would say: "Throw me a friction' bone, here!!" _MWS