1968 International Harvester

Travelall Other

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

Gasoline

I have owned this truck for 24 years. It came from CA in 1985. A model 1100C, w/119" W.B. It is 2-wheel drive, automatic, 304 V-8. I have kept it plated and insured all these years. Typically, I would use it maybe .. 1,000mi per year. In the last three years it has had <200mi. With two SUVs, a wagon and a recently sold (samereason) Porsche - I do not use it. Like a great hunting dog, it should be placed with someone who would enjoy it. Part of the reason this survived The East is that it was really inAs you would expect with any car or truck 43 years old, you need to stay ahead of it. Over the years I have done all the usual: replaced the engine, rebuilt the trans, re-done the brakes, re-did the steering, etc.. I have a folder, about 1" of details/dates/invoices. It needs more pages added to the folder. Having had a Scout in the past, I can tell you this is in pretty remarkable condition for an Eastcoast truck. Probably because it was in Cal. for half its life ..even tho' I never drove it in rain/snow, the humidity here is brutal . The tailgate is vulnerable. This one was replaced about five years ago. The electric window re-done with a new lift motor, etc. I also have two of the rear 'script' badges - both I believe lack studs. The exterior has been painted twice. Luckily, only minor rust needed to be dealt with -and needs it again- at the rear fenders and around the cowl. This is something that took place over the last few years. The vent for the fuel tank (there are R/L tanks) was blocked and when theSun would shine on this side the fuel would expand and drip down the side. In addition, the fuel filters would clog with rust. In March of this year, we pulled the RH fuel tank - sent it out for cleaning, then put in new fuel lines, two filters and a new fuel pump.The carb will very likely want a good cleaning also. I gather the real critical area on these trucks is the cowl in front of the windshield. This one is relatively clean. Nothing special here. Clunky old V-8. I am not sure if this is actually the second or third engine. They arecommon in this area. Easier to replace than fix anything major. Currently, it needs a solid tuneup and a coupleof the lifters are pretty noisy - from lack of use. More cowling detail. Forget the maple seeds .. the top has never been damaged. I had the first painter/hotrod shop put in a third light before they werecommon. I did not want anybody to miss those low-placed tail lamps. Rust rears up around the drip rail. I have sandblasting gear and cleaned this corner and another small section last week. Rust is something you need to continually chase. My wife picked the upholstery. It was suitable and cute in the 80's. As the padding was also done, a simple setof seat covers would work almost as well as a complete restitch. The big redo is the headliner. It was pegboard/cardboard crapus and kept falling years ago. When I looked under it - the entire center portion of the roof was rusty from front to back. I pulled the headliner out. Whether you sandblasted, sanded or simply painted it with a rust preventer - the underside of the roof should be treated. Making a new headliner would be a PITA but is pretty simple compared to new vehicles. Another redo is the dashboard and cover. The face of the dash is pocked with surface rust and the dash coveris history. You need to pop the windshield to pull it out .. and covering it with vinyl is fairlycommonly done. While the windshield is out - replace the rubber seal. I have done thisonce. It needs it again ..and it is a good place to look fend off rust. Probably a year after I got it, the carpets came out. All they did was hold moisture and hide rust. I used rubber mats.I chase rust with the sandblaster and in this case you can see two different treatments. The Black is POR15the White is Zero-Rust. I ended up not liking POR15 because it creates a 'shell' finish that flakes off, whereas the Z-R seems to adhere better. I have kept the backseat in a container for the last six years or so because I loved the very large cargoarea available without it. There are only two of us + dogs, so we did not need extra seating. I plannedon making a drop-in filler all the way to the back of the front seat. While looking into that, I decidedit would be prudent to replace the plywood base covered with dried-out rubber sheeting. it's not really needed - but if you wanted to keep it as long as I have, it would be wise. This truck is a '50-footer'. Realistically, it always was. Unlike the one listed on Ebay for $30kthis is not Barrett-Jackson ready. When I first listed this locally, the flippers could not call me fast enough .. this is not for them. It's not a truck for someone who lives in a condo, it's nota good purchase for some 16yr old who only fixes computers .. it is a continuous project for someonewho likes buying tools also. I do not think the truck needs anything major-major, but clearly, everywhere you look is a place to turn a wrench and insert at least one $100 bill ..and it always had these past 24 years. Just like a well made boat or house; this truck has great bones and classic style. You will never see yourself headed the other way. I picked this price because I am fairly sure it is what I paid for it. You may find one for less - not here. Jim Cancil Someone who's been around Intls. was smart enough to ask about the doors. The window seals were never any good inmodern terms. The bottom of the doors became collections of mud, leaves and rust scale. This is the driver's door. This is a shot of the body under the doors on the driver's side. I didn't bother to look on the other side. At some point ..different in everybody's eyes.. it is either in 'Great Condition for its age' or a 'Rusty POS'. LH Rear door. RH rear door. These last two shots are the RH front door. This rear, inner corner is the worst spot on all four doors. I suspect you could drive a rock pick thru the rust spot fairly easily. I did not bother to photograph the tops of the doors - they are 98-9% rust free - not much to see.