1982 Porsche 911

911SC Targa Other

6 Cylinder 3.0 Liter

Manual

WP0EA0919CS161891

Gasoline

1982 Porsche 911SC 5-Speed Targa with Whale Tail Pretty, Shiny, Rosewood Metallic (Brown) 134k miles Stock Except for Updates for Oil-Fed Carerra Timing Chain Tensioners, Pop Valve, and Bilsteins Runs Great Tight Engine -- Does Not Burn or Drip Oil Cold Air Conditioning and Hot Heat Newly Reupholstered Targa Top Two-Tone Leather Front Seats Loved and Treated Gently -- Driven about 1000 Miles a Year for the Past 7 Years Come On, It's Spring -- You Know You Want To! Hi. I'm Rob Siegel. I write the column "The Hack Mechanic" for BMW CCA Roundel Magazine. That doesn't mean that I know more than you do (especially about Porsches), but it does mean that you can trust me to tell you everything I know about this car. Although I'm a BMW guy, I'd always wanted a 911, and when I found this metallic brown Targa with a tail in February 2003, my heart just melted. I bought it from a guy up in Swampscott, MA. It had a clean Carfax when I bought it, and I haven't hit anything. It has always run great and started right up, even after I've had it off the road over the winter. I've had the car insured with Hagerty; it has not been a daily driver. The car had 127k when I bought it; it has 134k now. So in seven years I've put barely seven thousand miles on the car -- a thousand miles a year. The car is a basically stock 1982 911SC with the desirable updates of oil-fed Carerra timing chain tensioners and a pop valve in the airbox. Other than that and the Bilstein shocks, it is basically stock. It runs and drives beautifully. It does not shake, drift, or pull. The suspension is very firm but not filling-rattling. Because of the lack of a fixed roof, Targas can be a bit twisty and rattly, but this one is pretty tight. 911SCs have a great reputation as largely bullet-proof 911s that have had most of the bugs worked out of them, and this one has lived up to that reputation. Other than replacing the fuel pump and regulator, I've had very little trouble with the car. You can see me taking the car one exit down the Mass Pike and winding through the gears on YouTube here The paint is a somewhat unusual 911 color -- a beautiful metallic brown with a clearcoat called "rosewood" or "palisander" that was only used in 1982. As you can see from the photos, it is pretty and shiny and really pops when the light hits it -- all the more impressive considering that I didn't even wash it; I took the car out from under the cover where it's been sitting in the garage all winter and simply ran a damp rag over it. There are a few imperfections, including a scrape on the hood, another one on the right front corner of the bumper, and the usual assortment of chips on the front bumper, but the overall effect is quite pretty. There is one rust bubble on the passenger door; it is photographed below. I have not seen any other rust on the car. Floors, rocker panels, etc all are fine. If there's any place in particular you want me to check and photograph, I will be happy to do so. The wheels are pretty and shiny, free of blatant scuffs or curb rash, and, to the best of my knowledge, straight. The interior of the car is in good condition. The dash has no cracks, but it is slightly sun-warped and has some scuffs. The front seats are beautiful -- recovered in two-tone black and tan leather. The tan is a bit lighter than the interior panels of the car, but I think they compliment each other very well. I have the original front seats as well, which have some splits and tears that are hidden by sheepskin seat vests. I'll include the original seats with the sale for completeness. The Targa top was reupholstered two years ago by King's Upholstery, a very reputable local shop. Since the top was redone, I literally have not folded it up -- it either has been on the car, or stored in my garage, never folded in the boot. As such, the top is damned near perfect. After I bought the car, I squashed some oil leaks that erupted after I had it off the road the second winter. I dropped the engine and replaced all of the seals around the oil cooler. The valves were adjusted and the spark plugs were changed. Since then I've also replaced several oil return tubes, some oil lines, and some seals and gaskets. One of the leaks was from a metal-and-rubber oil line, the low-pressure scavenging line that connects the big hard oil line that wraps around the back of the engine to the oil thermostat up under the right rear fender. Since there is very little clearance up under there for a big wrench, it is very hard to get the necessary torque on the nut to take it off to change the oil hose. The Pelican Parts web site is replete with stories of people who tried to take this line off and broke the oil thermostat. I wanted to stop the oil leak but did not want to risk damaging the sheet metal of the car or breaking the oil thermostat, so I cut off the crimp-on fitting with a Dremel tool, exposed the original barbed fitting underneath, put in a new section of high-pressure oil line, and locked it in place with T-band clamps. This is the section of hose with the green stripe in the under-engine pics. There is much back and fourth on the Pelican web site about this workaround, with purists saying that you should only ever use the factory hose, and pragmatists like me saying that it is an acceptable alternative if you don't want to risk breaking the oil thermostat. I've yet to see anyone report a failure of this workaround when using industrial-quality t-band clamps like the ones I am using. Since this last round of leak squelching, I'm seeing only a hint of wetness on the bottom of the engine, with no drips reaching the ground. If you look very closely at the gauges, you'll see that the speedometer face looks cleaner than the other gauges. This is because, about three years ago, when I took it out after the winter, I found that, on its maiden voyage, odometer was not working. I don't think I drove it more than 10 miles. I had the odometer rebuilt by West Hollywood Speedometer. See, I told you I'd tell you everything I knew about this car. :^) The first summer I had the car, I resurrected the air conditioning. I installed a new rotary-style Sanden compressor and a new receiver/dryer, flushed all the hoses, and recharged it with Freon (R12). It blows nice and cold. Althought I don't drive the car over the winter, I do enjoy it in both fall and spring, and as such, made sure that the heater cables and flaps all work and the hoses are all there. A 911SC with working a/c AND heat -- pretty rare. Other odds and ends: --The car has a Sony detachable faceplace CD/stero with ADS 300i rear speakers and Boston Acoustics front speakers, but the power to it cuts in and out. --The cruise control is hooked up and intact, but appears to have the ubiquitous 911 issue of needing the control module rebuilt. --The Yokohama A609s have plenty of tread left, and are fine for cruising or spirited interstate driving, but as they were on the car when I bought it, I'd be a bit circumspect about putting the car on the track before updating the rubber. --In the photos, the driver's side door pocket is missing. It has since been re-installed. --One of the visors is trimmed with electrical tape around the edges to keep the foam from falling out. If you have any questions, pick up the phone and call me, 617-365-8303 (way better than e-mail). But, although I like to talk cars as much as the next guy, try to keep it specific to the auction. The usual auction stuff: --I am advertising the car locally so I reserve the right to end the auction at any time. --The car is sold as is, where is. --I will need a $500 deposit within 48 hours, and the bulk of the money within 7 days. I will wait for a bank check to clear before releasing the car. --I am a very honest straightforward guy. If you have any questions, ask them and I will answer them. But know that if you show up thinking that your winning bid is the starting point of a bargaining process, you will go home empty-handed. --Arranging transport is up to you. I certainly can assist if you contract someone to pick it up. --If you do decide to drive it home yourself (and I'm not aware of anything that would preclude you from doing that), I can pick you up at Logan airport or at the train station. On Mar-26-11 at 06:16:02 PDT, seller added the following information: eBay finally appears to have fixed its bug and is allowing me to ammend the auction, so let me touch on four things: Picking up the car, the paint, a few additonal repairs the car has had that I forgot to mention, and 25 new pictures of the underside showing that it is rust-free. Picking up the car: I've had some unexpected business-related travel come up, and will be out of town from Friday April 1st through about Friday April 14th. My wonderful wife really, REALLY would prefer that I not saddle her with the responsibility of transferring ownership of the car to the buyer, so the car will have to be picked up either before April 1st or after April 14th. I apologize for this last-minute snafu, but the main reason I'm selling the car is that my job situation has become uncertain, and in this climate, if I need to travel, I travel. The Paint: I'm not a paint-and-body guy, but I think it's likely that the paint is original. I see no overspray anywhere. Additional Repairs: I forgot to mention that a few years back I installed one of those compact starters with reduced gearing. The Rust-Free Undercarriage: I see no rust on this car other than that one blister on the passenger door, and here are 25 pictures to prove it: Let me post here the pictures that I'd posted the link to on Photobucket in the answer to one of the questions. I've had some questions of the form "are you SURE that this car is rust-free except for that bubble on the passenger door?" While, because of the way eBay works, I'm hesitant to make an absolute claim that an unhappy buyer could use to say that the car was not "as advertised," the answer is: I checked this car over thoroughly when I bought it, I did not find any other rust then, I have not driven it in the winter, I have kept it garaged, and since I have other cars, I have rarely driven it in the rain, and in addition to that, I just put it up on my lift and photographed the snot out of the underside, and the only thing I see is some surface corrosion on the underside of the gas tank where the undercoating is peeling back around the drain plug. Below are an additional 25 photos of the underside of the car (and the tool kit :^) The pictures below start under the left rear wheel well and go forward along the underside of the rocker to the underside of the left front wheel well. The pictures below start under the right rear wheel well and go forward along the underside of the rocker to the underside of the right front wheel well. The pictures below are of the underside of the nose of the car. The pictures below are of the underside of doors. I think you'll agree that you can bid in confidence that the car is as I am representing it -- that I see no rust on the car other than the bubble on the passenger door.