1967 Triumph Bonneville

T120RDU48856

Clear

Matching numbers machine T120R DU48856. Clear title. Keep your eyes open for my 1967 BSA C25 soon to be on auction too. I built this motorcycle for me, no one else. It’s built to my spec., to make me happy. Over the last 25 years of working on these beautiful Britt bikes I’ve learned a few tricks for melding form and function. Motorcycles have been (and are) my life’s passion. I’m not a professional. I work on them strictly because I love to do it. I built this one with all intentions of keeping it until I leave this world. Some of the parts on this bike have been in my possession for 20 years or better. It’s my pride. Unfortunately, continuing family medical problems combined with the ongoing lull in the economy force me to sell. I’m glad I’ve got it to get rid of, but I’ll hate to see it go, so you better take good care of it. EVERY nut and bolt on this bike has been removed, cleaned, replaced. Every gasket and seal has been replaced as well. Here’s what I can tell you: The bottom end and transmission were disassembled and rebuilt by Buddy Brown of Port City Cycle Sales in Mooresville NC six or seven years ago when I started this project. Port City was a Triumph dealership in the 70’s and Buddy has forgotten more about Britt bikes than most people will ever know. He cleaned the sludge trap, and replaced all the bearings and bushings in the tranny and lower end except the cam bushes. They mic’d out fine, so they were left alone. I’ve done Triumph bottom ends before but this one was special so it went to Buddy. The top end machine work was done by T.P. Classic Restoration out of Florida. They were recommended to me by the folks at MAP. The work was good, but it took awhile to get it back. The cylinders were match bored .020 over to stock compression pistons. The head got new valves, guides, and springs, The valves were installed with a nicely done three angle valve job. I know because I took them apart to look for myself when I got it back. The deck of the head was resurfaced. The rocker boxes were disassembled, cleaned, checked and had new rocker adjusters (the nice kind with the allen head in em) and springs installed. The motor got an Allen bolt kit because they work better than flat heads (please reference “I built it for me”). Many of the bracket bolts were replaced with chrome bolts and chrome nylox lock nuts. They look SO GOOD! So if it’s not stock Witworth, it’s tasteful chrome. The lower front acorn nuts that hold the exhaust brackets should be replaced with fresh chrome. These two slipped past the count. I had to put used ones on. No biggy. The primary is basically new. The clutch basket, clutch plates, steels and clutch springs, front sprocket, primary chain, and chain adjuster were all replaced. The shock rubbers in the clutch hub were replaced. There’s a new Sparx rotor and stator in there too! The gauges were both rebuilt by Joel Levine in Georgia. Speaking of electrics and gauges and such, it’s got a solid state rectifier/regulator beautifully mounted to the battery box. It has a Boyer electronic ignition (also beautifully mounted underneath), two new 6v coils, properly wired for the Boyer rig. The wiring harness is correct for a 67 and was purchased new from MAP. The ignition switch is also a new replacement. The brake light switch (you guessed it!) new. The headlight switch was replaced new as were the indicators on the shell and the handlebar switch. In fact, the only thing that remained Lucas, and it was replaced new too, is the amp meter. Would you like to bet on what quit working almost immediately? Ding! Ding! Ding! I never relied on those things anyway. The wires are ganged up on a single pole now. The amp meter looks good, but doesn’t do anything. The headlight shell is stock and was rechromed. There’s a standard automotive headlight installed right now (function move here…I built it for me) but I have a new aftermarket headlight lens assembly that I’ll throw in to the deal if you want it. The taillight is stock and was cleaned up but I decided to leave some dings to show its age. This ride ain’t no spring chicken ya know! ;) That same approach, by the way, applies to all the cast aluminum on the bike. The parts were cleaned, and polished with some of the imperfections gathered over the years left intact instead of having their entire life’s history sanded away. It did get a new patent badge though…an old military man would never have dull medals on his chest right? The seat was done by a friend for a friend. The original seat pan was used. It was sandblasted, primed, painted and a new cover was made. There was some foam work done as well. It is very sturdy and comfortable. The underside isn’t pristine but please reference the first sentence in this paragraph. I am grateful for my friends. The front end has Forking by Frank fork tubes with new all new internals, seals, guides, clips, slides, cork washers, gaiters, etc. It works like a brand new 67. The lower legs and headlight mount have been powder coated. The spring cups were sent to Kentucky for chroming. Oh, it got Timken tapered neck bearings! What a great thing these are! If you really want, I can give you the stock races and a bag full of those little ball bearings that I’ve chased around the floor off and on most of my adult life. On the subject of powder coating… the frame and most of the brackets have also been powder coated. All of these parts were disassembled, chemically cleaned, sand blasted, baked to reveal any oil or grease still tucked away in the cracks, chemically cleaned again and powder coated gloss black. (Thanks Big Meanie and I apologize for what I got you in to). A few of the smaller brackets ended up getting paint but 90 percent of the bike is coated. Before I forget, the side stand mount broke long before I got it. A new one was welded on. I didn’t like the looks of the weld job, It was sturdy, but didn’t look right so I cleaned it up a bit and that one spot has been painted but you really wouldn’t notice if I hadn’t told you. I’ve got a side stand. It’s not mounted because it hasn’t been powdercoated yet. I use the center stand. Even the wheel hubs got that powdercoat treatment! They were trued on a brake lathe, got new bearings, stainless spokes, new brake shoes and springs, new BRITISH rims (not the cheap ones that are easier to find) and new, period Dunlop tyres (spelled with proper tip of the hat to the Britts, but made in Japan, go figure). The speedo drive was disassembled, cleaned and re-lubed. The axle adjusters were chromed but there are a couple flakes where that didn’t work out as well as I would have liked. The left side panel has been powder coated and the oil tank was thoroughly washed inside and out and powder coated. There was a scratch on the oil tank. It was painted over in just that spot. I let a friends kid who works in a body shop get at it with a buffer because he promised he could make it seamless. He smeared the paint instead. It’s not bad, it’s actually more noticeable in the pic than in person, but it’s there. I can fix it. It’s just one of those things that I’m not going to do because it’s aggravated me a bit too much. A tastefully placed Owners Club sticker may cure the blemish too. Oh ya, It’s got Progressive shocks in the back because, well, duh! The fuel tank was chemically cleaned inside and out. The inside got Kreemed by a shop that knows what they’re doing so don’t let it scare you. The biggest problem with that stuff is when people that don’t know how to take their time and do it right get their hands on it. There was little body work to do but it came out sweet. Here’s one of the bikes little “things”. The tank had studs welded in to the bottom. Rather than cut them out and go through all that, I chose to leave them, clean the weld up a bit with a little tapered molding job and cut a thicker top rubber for them to sit in. I’ve been meaning to get a couple of reflectors to put on the lower tank mounts but just haven’t gotten around to it. The petcocks are new as is the fuel cap. Since we’re talking about fuel you’ll notice it has twin Mikunis and K&N filters! Wow do these things work well! Don’t worry, I’ve still got the old side bowls. They’re rough and would need to be completely rebuilt but I’ll send them along if you really want them. All the cables have been replaced with new as well. I think that’s it in the description department. So to summarize: This machine is AWESOME!!!!! It runs better than it would have if it were brand new off the line in 1967. It was built by me, to suit my taste, and that’s pretty damn good. It was built to look good and to be ridden!! You don’t have to, but that’s what I had in mind. This bike is no show queen all shiny on the outside with poor internals, it’s a motorcycle. It is an excellent example of Britain’s pride. It performs marvelously and I would put it up against many of the so called “show bikes” that are out there as an excellent example of what some modern technology can do to bolster and enhance this classic design from the late 60’s. It’s only got less than 350 miles on it. It still needs to finish being broken in so be easy. I’ll say it again, it needs to be ridden carefully while it’s still being broken in, about another 650 miles or so. There is still a little oil vapor coming out of the breather but don’t worry, that will stop as the rings seat a bit more, but you better finish breaking it in. Do I need to say it again? The discerning Triumph eye will note that the beautifully painted black fenders and two hole front fender bracket are not what came stock on a 67 T120R. You’re CORRECT! I like black paint. I have the stainless fenders and the correct mounts. They have not been cleaned and polished, nor have the mounts been straightened or chromed (they may have been powder coated, I can’t remember. I’ll dig them out and look). You may have one set of fenders, not both. If you choose the stainless fenders I will include them but they will be yours to install. I’ll remove the painted fenders and chromed mounts before the bike ships. I will include, AT YOUR REQUEST, some or all of the following. The factory points plate, neck cup and bearings, monoblock carb bodies and bowls (suitable as cores, not bolt on and go), and the aftermarket repop headlight lens. I’ve never used the side stand but it should be around here and if I can find it, I’ll include it. That’s it. I’ve tried to be as honest and upfront as any used car man would never be. I know what I’m selling so you should know what you’re buying. Please feel free to ask any questions. I’ll be looking for a $500.00 no refundable deposit within 24 hours of sale with the balance due in cash or wire transfer 7 days from sale. A check, cashiers only, will be fine, but the motorcycle does not leave my possession until my bank tells me it’s cleared and not coming back. That may take up to 10 days. Shipping is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and any damage incurred during the process will not be my fault. I will assist by prepping the bike (draining fluids and such) if you use a shipping company instead of picking it up. This machine is for sale locally and I reserve the right to pull it from auction in the event of a local sale. If you’ve made it this far you’re truly interested in this awesome motorcycle.Thanks for reading the novel and Happy Bidding. On Dec-23-10 at 10:29:46 PST, seller added the following information: 12/23/10 UPDATE IMPORTANT FENDER INFO! and one picture added I went to pull the stainless fenders referred later in the description. I haven't paid them any attention for 10 uears and I'm not sure these are the correct ones. The holes all line up but I think these may go to a tuber frame. There is a split (repairable)in the bottom of the rear fender. Both fenders have a couple of dings and bends that can be fixed. I found the other style tank badges - If you prefer them, I'll remove the ones on the machine and send these along for you to clean up and install. One set only. The points plate and mechanical advance are yours if you want them. Please ask. The Carb bodies should be considered good for cores only. I have done nothing with them. Th slide moves in one, not the other, but I haven't even tried to remove a screw. Again, yours only if you ask for them. Stock bearing races - two frame cups, one upper triple tree cup, one lower triple tree cup. I've got the bearings too, just didn;t drag them out for the pic.