1968 Ford Galaxie

Other

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

8J60Q100---

Clear

Gasoline

This will be a long and thorough listing, please read carefully and ask questions if needed. Up For Sale 1968 Ford Galaxie XL fastback. The good news is this is an original Q-code 428 car which is mostly rust free. Original options included c6 automatic trans, AM/FM stereo, power windows, bucket seats and console with very rare console mounted tachometer. If restored this would be an incredibly rare car. The bad news is that all the best options have been stripped by previous owners as I will explain in the car description. Data plate reads: Body 63C, XL fastback. Color W, Meadowlark Yellow. Trim RA, black vinyl seats. Date 04G July 4 1968 DSO 75, Phoenix (no California emissions) Axle 3, conventional 2.79:1 Trans U, C6 automatic. Body and Frame: Frame is extremely solid, only surface rust, no evidence of any major wrecks that I have found. Body is very straight, all gaps line up well, doors hood and trunk open and close as they should. The tunk floor is solid with no through rust. The only through rust on the floorpan is under the rear seat, and it was hit with a wire brush wheel, treated with rust sealer and sprayed with undercoating which sealed all the tiny holes. The paint looks good from a distance but the poor prep work before painting is popping up. The yellow had been sprayed when I acquired the car, but the hood was in primer and roof was heavy surface rust. The hood cleaned up well, is rust free, was sprayed with primer, spot puttied and painted black. The roof had to be media blasted and had large dents. The blasting revealed that the right rain gutter had rusted out. I pulled the headliner, staightened the major dents, used fiberglass to patch the rain gutter, re-caulked both rain gutters, skimmed the roof with putty, smoothed it pretty well then painted it black. I knew this was a temporary fix, and 3 years later after being outside the whole time, it has several areas that were not prepped well and are popping up. The yellow has several scratches and chips as well. My best friend later put a big dent in the right quarterpanel which I straightened somewhat without doing any bodywork or paint, it will be an easy fix when the car is repainted. The bottoms of the doors, fenders, and quarters have absolutely no serious rust, nothing close to rusting through. The deck lid has areas on the left which bubbled up. I popped off one of the bubbles and it appears to be only surface rust that was not correctly prepped before paint. The places of usual rust on the deck lid are very solid on this one. Overall the paint looks good from 10 feet and shines well, but it really needs new paint with correct bodywork. The right door was replaced with a rust free door, all other panels are original. Glass Chrome and Trim: All glass is in great shape, the wing windows were replaced with ones that are not pitted. Front and rear bumpers are recently rechromed, front has a small crack that went unnoticed until after it was chromed, less than an inch long and it shines. Rear is an older rechrome job but still shows well. All the exterior trim is present. The hashmarks are very nice, stainless has typical dents, most of the aluminum parts are dull. The hood emblem is a rechromed bezel with a replacement emblem - looks great. The parking light are nice, no pitting, other pot metal parts have typical pitting. Engine and drivetrain: As stated, the original 428 is sadly gone. I believe the transmission and rear are original. the transmission has the correct linkage for the floor shifter, and it shifts well. The motor was replaced with a recently rebuilt 390. It came to me with an early style intake and didn't seem to have much power for a 390. I found a correct 1968 cast iron intake. When I put the intake on, I installed an Edelbrock Performer cam and lifter set along with a double roller timing chain. I recently topped it with a new 600 cfm Holley with Ford kickdown linkage. I also replaced the points with an electronic conversion. It now runs great and has good power. With the top of the motor apart it was obvious that the motor was recently rebuilt, very clean inside. The radiator shows evidence of tiny leaks under pressure, but it does not leak antifreeze onto the ground. Alternator and voltage regulator are new, and I just put a new exhaust on, 2.25 inch pipe with turbo mufflers. Interior: Front buckets and rear seat were reupholstered in vinyl 3 years ago. I did put a small nick on the rear seat while reinstalling by myself, it hasn't changed in 3 years. The headliner was new but since it was reinstalled after roof work it is not as tight as it once was. The dash has one major crack along the speaker holes, one other crack by the defroster vent. The console was cracked. I took it out, fiberglassed the back along the cracks and reassembled it, and you need to look closely to see the cracks. The center tach and its pad along with all the wiring are gone. A nice standard storage door is installed. The shifter handle is complete, looks good and works properly. New neutral safety/backup switch installed and works correctly. Front door panels are new and cut out for manual windows. Rear panels are the originals and need recovered. All the windows are manual, roll up style, but work well. All the power window switches, motors, and tracts are gone. It now has an AM radio. I don't even know if it works but there is no speaker. The AM/FM and all factory wiring were gone before I got the car. The sail panels were new, but not very high quality, it is obvious where they glued the material to the backing. The opera lites are new. Scuff plates are new replacements and still shine like new. Carpet needs replaced but is serviceable. Wheels, Tires, Suspension: Currently on the car is a set of Magnum 500's and BF Goodrich Radial TA tires. The wheels and tires are 11 years old. The wheels have areas of light rust coming through and one of the tires has wear from a bad previous alignment. The wheel do shine when polished and will last a long time if kept inside. I do have a set of good tires on factory steel wheels with GT style wheel covers that can be swapped if desired ( $400 cheaper). For the last inspection the upper and lower control arms were rebuilt with new bushings and front springs replaced, new idler arm. Ball joints and tiee rod ends were all good. Rear shocks are new gas shocks, front are originals and in good shape. Brakes were completely rebuilt less than 1000 miles ago. Car handles well and tracks straight. Overall this is a very solid, running, driving, currently licensed car. Everything works on the car. I have a clean Missouri title for this car. Terms of sale: I am very easy going person, but I am selling this car, not playing games. If you have zero feedback, cantact me before placing a bid, or I will CANCEL your bid. I expect a 500 dollar deposit via paypal within 48 hours of auction's end, balance due within 7 days. I will will accept personal check, cashiers check or cash for balance, but prefer the entire payment not be paypal. The deposit will only be refunded if you pick the car up in person and find it to be described incorrectly. The car will not leave my possession until all the money is in my bank account and verified. I will not have this car shipped. You must either pick the car up in person or it may be possible for me to deliver the car within 500 miles of my home. The transaction will not be final until we meet face to face and both parties are satisfied with the transaction. I am not trying to be difficult, but I have heard too many horror stories, and insist that we meet and everyone in happy before the title changes hands. If you don't like the terms, please don't bid. Any questions, please call Jeff 1-573-576-8729 or email through ebay's system. I will entertain reasonable offers. The car is for sale locally as well. I reserve the right to end the auction if the car sells locally before a bid is placed, but I will not end the auction early for any other reason. thank you, and enjoy the auction, Jeff