1994 Chrysler LeBaron

Convertible

6 Cylinder 3.0 Liter

Automatic

1C3EU4535RF258694

Gasoline

Air Conditioning

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 94 Chrysler LeBarron Convertible 3.0 L Auto These are nice convertibles for an affordable price. This one belongs to my fiance, and I worked on it for several years so I'm quite familiar with its condition. We realize it's driveable junk, and we like the car, but we don't want to spend money on it, so it's up for parts or driveable restoration. It's got 130k on it all original drivetrain; the trans is in good shape. It was garage kept until we got it in 2003. It’s been in a parking garage since 2008. The frame is in decent shape over all with less than usual rust. The CD player still works and has an 1/8” input jack for your IPOD. The wheels have HOT PINK locking lug nuts! Owner’s manual is included! SOLD AS-IS! Now for the real stuff: Interior is white leather which we cleaned and treated before parking it two years ago. No rips! Seatbelt extension is still present and included. The body is not particularly rusty. The driver’s front fender is wrinkled from backing over an obstacle or something. Side trim is mistmatched. The driver's door has been replaced to address the common problem of the door separating from the hinge at the weld seem. This door has been welded and painted. It couldn't hurt to touch up the weld, as the door is still too heavy! The paint is brighter and the side trim was not replaced. I have bags of trim parts, door parts, and mirrors in labeled bags the trunk. There’s bumper sticker residue on the trunk lid. Prior to 60k mi the car had been in a collision. The frame was straightened prior to our intial purchase, and body panels were reused. They don't line up perfectly but they're pretty good; you can see overspray in the wheel well. It's had several alignments since then while getting tires replaced and drives straight, or even if it doesn't at this point it's not that far out and could be corrected by any shop. This actually has nothing to do with the hole in the grille under the bumper; that happened years later on a low-hanging tow hitch ball. Also, the rear passenger window is hog tied with its own cable in the up position, which saved us the trouble of buying and installing a motor for it when we first bought the car. Not a high priority! The rubber in the engine mounts is worn, so if you floor it you may experience "torque steer" in which the engine's torque pulls you to the side, but that is different from bad alignment. Three tires still hold air (four if you count the donut - jack incl. BTW). The other tire can hold air long enough to drive a few miles or a few hours, and could probably be plugged. I can't say much else about old tires but they weren't that worn out. All shocks have been replaced at least once. The stiffer upgrade struts may have pushed the old rubber bushings in the control arms “over the edge.” You can hear a rattle as you go over bumps. See for yourself, but I don't think the car's gonna fall apart while driving, it's just got no rubber to keep it snug. Could be the sway bar links or bushings. Feel free to check before driving at your own risk. Brakes were always done before necessary. Wheel bearings were replaced at 75k. Rear wheel cylinders and drum hardware have been replaced within the last 15kmi. One rear brake line has been replaced. Fluid was flushed regularly so internal line corrosion is unlikely. I am not guaranteeing safety of ANY brakes, but these lines seem just old enough that if you don't jerk them around they won't break. Think about inspecting lines on the next brake job. The white convertible top is in useable shape; it's not too dirty, and the frame is not bent. One latch has been repaired by a marine shop mechanic who was good at practical solutions (not factory, shut up and latch it!). The motor is burned out (but the switch and wiring work), and the piston is disconnected to allow manual opening and closing. You will hear a rattling while driving that may sound like suspension but it's just the loose piston, not unsafe or damaging. The wiper motor has been replaced. So has the windshield. If you ever remove the wiper blade arms, be careful how you do it! The transmission has never given any issues. Shifts smoothly and has no leaks. The fuel pump's been replaced (filter too). Nobody likes THAT job, you have to drop the tank after draining it of all that gas! Something about it makes it take three times as long as it should, but I forget what. Positioning of filler hose maybe? Whatever, it's done. Fill up when the gauge is between 1/2 and 1/4. DON'T push it. And is there something wrong with keeping your gas tank full? You're gonna drive it all up anyway... There's something funny about the dashboard lights. Of course, the check engine light comes on cause of emissions problems. Also, the signal for oil pressure doesn't make it to the dashboard consistently, and when it drops the check gauges light comes on. The engine oil is fine as long as it's on the dipstick and you don't hear that awful clicking of an oil-starved engine. I think it's the oil pressure sender (or is it an oil low sensor somewhere else?) behind the filter, but we never got around to it. It's a common problem. If you know a Chysler dealership that's been around since the 90s they can confirm this. If they sell a lot of that part nationwide, it's your part. If they don't, it's not that part. DON'T GO TO PEP BOYS FOR THIS! GO TO YOUR DEALER! Compare it with how many oil pumps Chrysler Dealerships sell for that engine, and you'll conclude that they sell a lot of that part because IT'S faulty, NOT the oil pump. The engine's piston rings are worn and so at idle speeds, oil leaks past the pistons and burns when you take of, resulting in a puff of blue smoke. This is the most common problem with these Mitsubishi 3.0L engines which could also be found in many Caravans and Voyagers. CHECK OIL WHENEVER YOU GET GAS! Despite this, the car still drives fine; it was driven into the parking garage where it has sat for two years. I highly recommend Lucan Oil Stabilizer for this engine, as it helps seal the leaky rings and thicken the oil. I have photos available of each fluid type and dipstick verifying that even after two years of sitting there has not been significant leakage; all dipsticks show fluid within spec. The battery is most likely dead, but I had replaced the alternator and it's probably still good. The fan doesn't work. If you want to drive it home, either keep moving and don't get stuck in traffic, or put the top down and blast the heat, and you'll be fine (unless it's a really horrible jam). The radiator is a replacement so it's probably still good, and thermostats got replaced every chance we got. So did the O2 sensor. Tunes ups were regular, it might even have splitfire plugs in it, but who knows what carbon build-up might be on the plugs? The wires, dist cap and rotor are still good. Leave 'em alone, I had to tap one hole bigger than the other for the retaining screw! K&N AIR FILTER! DON’T THROW IT OUT! Power steering works and reservoir holds fluid. Belts were replaced at least twice, probably good for a little while. The TIMING BELT was replaced less than 10,000 miles ago, and all front-end seals and water pump with it. The engine and trans have never been out so I have no reason to think that the rear main seal has been replaced; however I have never seen any signs of leakage in that area. AC WORKS! (Like you need that in a convertible!) We never used it but it turns on automatically whenever you use the defroster so it keeps the system lubricated. So it’s been run regularly and spat cold air when I parked it. No guarantees on longevity! This car has expired PA inspection stickers and would not pass emissions due to the oil burning. The correct way to deal with the engine is to have a shop put a Jasper engine in it with a 100k warranty. Or, drive it in a state with no emissions laws. If you expect to drive in PA after ten days, you'd better "know somebody." I would love to see this car go to a restorer. It's a great car with class and character. I had two Olds Cierras around the time we drove this; when they wear out, and lose all their value, you just junk 'em and get a new one. LeBarrons, people will get nostaligic for very soon, if you watch the trends. I wish I could restore this car, but we're getting married so it's time for the next person to have some fun with it. Again, it's got a lot of potential, but I'm not calling it any more than driveable junk for parts or restoration. I'm telling all I know about the car, have no reason to make stuff up, and need it gone! I’m also not guaranteeing there’s nothing I’ve missed either. Come with a tow truck (clearance is 7'10") OR a sense of adventure, and don't complain afterwards about whatever you didn't expect! I could drive this car to New York if I had to, but I know the car really well. Drive at your own risk; the shorter the better. Please ask questions before bidding! Don’t waste my time with scams or hemming and hawing, or any other BS, test drives for FUN, etc! It is what it is… do you want it or not? Bidding starts at $1. Pickup or shipping is the responsibility of the buyer! HAVE A NICE DAY ! :)