2006 Jeep Liberty

Sport CRD 4WD SUV Sport Utility

2.8L 160HP I4 Turbo Diesel

Automatic

1J4GL48506W282511

Clear

Diesel

*Long description warning* if you're genuinely interested, my long description will provide a lot of valuable info. If you're casually browsing you may not want to waste your time. 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Turbo Diesel. 2.8L inline common rail direct injected turbo diesel. 158K miles, clean CarFax included. These are pretty rare- only 5% of the Libertys produced only in 05 and 06, were available with the factory diesel motor. Its got 160 hp and 300 ft lbs of torque, gets 25-33 mpg, I think it'll go about halfway around the world on a tank of gas. Its a BLAST to drive, and sounds great. Has a factory towing package. 2.5" Old Man Emu lift and OME shocks. 9/10 exterior (very clean, deep shine in the paint, ZERO rust, no noticeable dings or dents) and 8/10 interior (a couple very faint stains on the carpet and upholstery, would come right out with a spot bot, also theres a small crack on the inside cover of the tailgate (basically opposite of where the spare tire sits)) . Black with grey cloth and tinted windows. Auto trans. NO RUST. not a speck of rust anywhere on this Jeep, you are welcome to put it on a lift, crawl around underneath it, pull rocker covers or door panels off to inspect it, etc. Obviously was stored inside and taken very good care of. Brand new air, oil, and fuel filters. Transmission was just serviced and shifts silky smooth, no hard shifts or flaring between gears, tranny fluid is bright red and at the correct level. Does not burn or leak ANY oil. No leaks whatsoever. New timing belt, water pump, and rocker arms and lifters, among a lot of other service all completed since September this year. All five, black inset polished lip American Racing Rims with four matching Michelin LTX AT2 load range E (80 psi!) tires with about 50% tread remaining. They are 245/75/16 which is slightly oversized and they do rub the fender wells a little bit when the wheel is fully cranked. Complete EGR delete. ZERO shaft play in the turbo. I have all the receipts and paperwork for work done as well as pictures documenting the entire process. New rubber all weather floor mats as well as the original carpet ones for summer. Cruise control, icy cold AC, power windows and locks, keyless entry, sunroof/moonroof, tilt wheel, everything works. This Jeeps been my project since early September. In the last 3 months and 700 miles, Ive done MOTOR: All new rocker arms AND lifters with the updated/redesigned ones from Sasquatch Parts (all 16). New Gates timing belt, Litens tensioner and idlers New Graf brass impeller water pump new upper and lower radiator hoses. New coolant flush and fill, using the proper Mopar HOAT coolant from the dealer (have an extra gallon to go with it.) New Bosch OEM MAP sensor All new steel 7V glow plugs (all four) replacing the breakage prone, engine-destroying ceramic ones. Starts right up in the cold. New Meziere inline thermostat housing. (This lets you use a range of adjustable temp thermostats for a 90s Chevy K1500 at $6 each. Rather than the failure-prone, $150 thermostat that goes out every ~40K miles, and opens between 176 and 187 degrees F. much better for the motor and mpg to run a 195 (what I have in there now) or a 205) New alternator decoupler pulley. New Gates serpentine belt (the old one was in fine shape, so i kept it as a spare) New serpentine belt idlers and tensioner bearings. I made these serviceable from now on, by drilling out the rivets and replacing with stainless steel hardware. This lets you quickly and easily replace just the bearing with high quality ones made in America for $10, (I used NSKs) rather than spending $30 per idler for cheap Chinese made ones prone to premature failure (the serp belts on these Libbys are under a heavy load). New air, oil, and fuel filters. 2 engine oil changes, complete coolant flush and fill, new tranny fluid, new rear diff fluid. During this top end engine tear down and rebuild I took the time to do things that NO shop or dealer would, like soaking and cleaning with a flexible wire brush the entire intake manifold components, removing all the gunk that the EGR causes, soaking the rocker arms and lifters in engine oil for 48 hours, cleaning the CAC hoses, re-torquing the head bolts IN THE CORRECT ORDER to 125 ft lbs, flushing the motor passages, used new copper crush washers and o rings with anti seize when reinstalling injectors, putting anti seize or threadlocker on everything that called for it, per the Factory Service Manual (FSM) specifications (these were followed to a T, every nut and bolt was torqued to spec regardless of importance) All radiator hoses were re-assembled with radiator hose grease for proper sealing and ease of disassembly next time. I also re-loomed the entire engine wiring harness (removed all the old plastic jacket that gets old and crumbly from heat and replaced it all with new loom) I will include an electronic copy of the FSM and the official Parts Fiche for the 06 KJ, a 6,000 page manual, $70 value. New valve cover gasket, FCV intake gasket, and many other gaskets, seals and o-rings, too many to list. Tightening in order of valve cover bolts and torque spec was strictly followed per the FSM. After the engine work the motor was filled with full synthetic Rotella T6 5W-40 and new oil filter, ran for about 500 miles, then drained and new oil (same type) and new filter installed (this was done 12/7). A complete EGR delete was performed during the engine tear down, not a bypass, a complete delete. Exhaust manifold and FCR block off caps, radiator hose Y replaced with an inline, and a threaded plug and crush washer in the block. Really cleaned up the engine bay, and no more sooty gunk being fed to the motor. The butterfly/choke plate obviously has to be removed too when doing this. I did everything on the EGR delete in such a way that it could be put back to factory with minimal work and no expense should the future owner ever decide to do this. As if the engine work wasn't enough, in November and December this year I also: BODY: New motor mounts, new inner and outer tie rod ends, new front rotors, new brake pads all around, all 4 calipers disassembled and cleaned/regreased. new upper and lower ball joints, new upper control arms and upper control arm bushings. Front end alignment of toe, camber and caster after the front end suspension was rebuilt. new driveshaft UV joint, new rear axle shaft seals and wheel bearings, new diff fluid change. new rear upper control arm with bushings and rear diff ball joint. Also new master window switch, new blower motor resistor (also have two spares) A couple new wheel speed sensors. I have all the receipts and paperwork for work done as well as pictures documenting the entire process. 158K miles but the dash reads 110K due to replacing the cluster, verified with a clean CarFax report (included). Check engine light is on due to EGR delete, and ESP & traction lights are on due to lift and oversized tires. Traction and ABS all function as normal. Runs and drives great, motor is a rocket (its gut wrenching fast), idles very smooth and quiet. 4WD engages and works as it should but the indicator lights dont display on the dash, this is a position sensor in the transfer case that looks to be a cheap and easy fix, like changing spark plug. It also needs sway bar bushings, also cheap and easy fix (I had to leave a couple things for the next owner to do, and my wife said I need to stop making it perfect) It also may need a new battery before the winter is over, its currently starting right up just fine in 25F without being plugged in (it has a block heater) but the resting voltage on the battery is 12.10 volts, it should be up around 12.5 or so. I'm a pretty meticulous mechanic. I have 16 years experience tinkering with Mercedes and Cummins diesel motors and my area of specific expertise is BMW and Mini Cooper, this was my first VM Motori. I pride myself in attention to detail. Being a mechanic is not my full time job, its a hobby. I'm not saying buy my Jeep, but if youre looking for a CRD i would not recommend buying one that hasnt had the rocker arms and lifters replaced, that alone is a ~$3,600 job at the dealer, and the timing belt and water pump are also crucial and need done every 100K which can take it to about $4,500. This Jeep has been pretty thoroughly gone through and will make a great Libby diesel for someone. Clean Indiana title in my name. Thanks for reading my extremely long ad. Please ask any and all questions, i can send pics or videos of whatever you'd like to see, and if you message me I can send a link to all the pics of the repairs and rebuild process (ebay wont let me post links to pictures, theyre on Picasa.) Thanks again.