1971 BMW Other

U/K

2.8L 2788CC 170Cu. In. l6 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspir

Manual

2270311

Clear

Gasoline

1971 BMW 2800cs Time to sell my 2800cs. The car is a great daily driver with cold air conditioning that has always started and runs well. This could become an excellent driver or could be used as a restoration candidate, as it is mostly complete Will let it go to the highest bidder without reserve. The car is in Hawaii, so please consider the additional shipping costs to get it to the West Coast, which is about $1100.00 https://www.pashahawaii.com/tools/vehicles/ship-car http://www.matson.com/pov/booking/shipping_rates.htm The car has a M30B35 engine, dual weber 32/36 carburetors with electric chokes, Stall headers and a 5-speed conversion. It has 16 x 7” Renncraft Alpina replicas. The current mileage on the car is unknown. I have owned the car for the last twelve years. Eight of those years it has sat in a covered garage. I have been driving the car on average 3 times a week as a commuter (20 miles round trip) the last 2 years. Body and interior Overall the body is in good shape. I have tried photo document as best as I could please thoroughly go through the many photographs in the link below. I will not be held responsible for anything you or I have missed. There is some rust on the body and there was some rust under the windshield and back glass seals. I had treated the rust under the glass and sealed up the open channel under the window seal. There is one point around the front windshield where the rust has gone through. The strut, shock towers, roof pillars, around the drip rails, well and the body rocker panels appear to be solid and rust free. There are two small areas of the floor pan below the driver and passenger feet that have a very small amount of rust. I don’t believe it is through the metal though and the rest of the floor pan appears very clean. The driver side door on the rear lower corner has open rust. The driver front fender behind the wheel has what appears to be body work. The passenger side door and the back of the hood behind the cowl vent has a few unopened rust bubbles. There is rust in the rear tire well. The front corner on the driver side fender has a small dent. The front bumper has chrome failure in the center piece. The two left and right front ends of the bumper are presentable as is the rubber. The back bumper is clean and the rubber surround in good condition. The front door panels and the rear seat panels are in decent condition. The plastic on the front door pulls are cracked. The front seats are deeply bolstered Recaro. The front driver seat and the rear seats need recovering. The dash has some splits and some of the wood has delaminated. I have some replacement wood pieces for the dash. The under dash covers and glove compartment are complete but need work. The Carpet, headliner and sun visors appear original. There is a Nardi wood wheel that could use refinishing. Major electrical parts are working, with the exception of; the rear windows, clock, hood and trunk lights (both are however there). I have changed the front window motors out to e28 motors, and have motors for the rear. I have not been using the rear windows but know that the wires are hot and can be made functional. All turns signals, markers and headlights work. The windshield wiper stalk is broken, but the wipers work. I have panel LED lights for the rear running lights, turn signals and reverse lights. My wiring is a little ugly, but functional. The air conditioning has never needed service or refrigerant during my ownership and blows cold. When the engine was changed the heater core was bypassed. The hoses are still there, but I am currently unsure of the actual core condition. Suspension and steering The suspension and steering are tight, there is nothing loose or noisy. Drag link and tie rod ends were changed last year. I have new uninstalled front control arms. The dust boots on the ball joints for the front control arms are worn away but the joint itself is still tight so I decided to leave them in a little longer. Brakes are functional, both rear wheel cylinders were changed last year but the car may need a pad change soon. Drivetrain Last year I did a B35 engine swap, mileage is unknown but runs very well. A month ago I changed the head gasket due to slow oil intrusion into the coolant that was present from when I originally changed the engine. I also changed the surge tank and installed an aluminum radiator. There was never any water in the oil and as far as I could tell when the head was off there are no splits in the block near the head bolt holes. There is a slim 16” electric fan that is controlled by a relay and probe type regulator. The car now runs very cool and during the last month of driving in stop and go traffic with the air conditioning on the engine temperature does not reach mid-point on the gauge, there is no oil in the coolant. The transmission swap was done by the previous owner. There is no cable attachment at the output shaft on the transmission suggesting it is a later model. This is why the mileage is unknown and the speedometer does not work. The cable is however still in the car if you decide to invest the time to make it functional. The clutch and pressure plate are in good condition and was visually inspected when the engine was changed. The transmission shifts smoothly unless driven hard. While it does not grind or not shift it can feel a little catchy. There is very little lash in the drivetrain. There are no holes in the exhaust system, from the Stahl header to the tailpipe. I have not serviced the differential. The half shafts and boots are however in good condition. There is a wheel bearing that is beginning to hum. I believe it is coming from one of the front wheels. I have front replacement bearings and races but have not had the chance to go in and change them. The wheels have Renncraft GmbH cast into them. I believe they are from Japan. The center caps do not hold firm enough with the tabs. I normally have them held in with silicone. I have placed many close up pictures of the car even dirty ones… https://www.flickr.com/gp/78812219@N04/e336nf Transaction details I will not ship to an international location I require that you contact me within 24 hours of the auction closing. I would like to keep the transaction as clean as possible. Please look at shipping schedules from Honolulu, Hawaii. I would like the car shipped as quickly as possible after the auctions ends and after the paperwork is complete. A non-refundable deposit of 300.00 to cover fees are required at the end of auction. This payment should be made via Paypal and will be subtracted from the total purchase price. Full payment via a cashiers check is expected before shipping the car. The title is currently held under my name with no liens and is not a salvage title. I recommend that the full payment be sent via Fed Ex (at your expense) with signature confirmation. I will then take the check to the bank for verification and complete a notarized bill of sale at the same time. I will then send you via Fed Ex (at my expense) the release of liability form from the title. Upon my receiving the release of liability form and a photocopy of your identification the notarized bill of sale and the completed title made out to the buyer will be sent (at my expense). The buyer needs to be the same person listed in the release of liability, the title and the bill of sale. Shipping and transportation is the responsibility of the buyer (at your expense), and I will do what I can to make this as painless as possible. This vehicle is being sold as is, with all faults and without warranty, express or implied, oral or written, assurances or guarantee. The descriptions are made to the best of my knowledge.