1976 Honda Gold Wing

GL12003382

Clear

NO RESERVE AUCTION! BID TO BUY! USA Sale ONLY Please read the whole listing -- it's kind of long but pretty informative. For Sale: 1976 Honda GL1000 GoldWing, 38,772 miles (and counting -- I'll be riding it some)Excellent condition -- recent restoration -- new battery, fresh service and Virginia state inspection. Clear Virginia title in my name. I bought this bike several years ago because I had always wanted a Sulfur Yellow GL1000. It was essentially original and had been pretty regularly maintained mechanically, though it was beginning to show its age. The plan was to replaced the timing belts, fix a few things and ride it. Well. . . The carbs were clearly dirty so I sent them to Pistol Pete's to be rebuilt -- where they did a beautiful job -- thank you again Moose! While the carbs were gone I decided to fix the non-functioning neutral indicator switch. Which is an engine-out-of-the-frame task. What I did: Once it was clear that the engine needed to be separated from the frame I changed my plan and decided to go through the whole bike. I sold another motorcycle and started ordering parts. If it was available new from Honda, that's where it came from: water pump, fuel pump, fuel lines, neutral switch, virtually every fastener and clamp, brake shims, o rings . . . I have a file an inch thick of receipts from Bike Bandit, David Silver, CMSNL. . . Bottom line is virtually everything mechanical that is replaceable outside the engine is new -- hoses, lines, sending units, bearings, seals (I even replaced the steering stem bearings with new from Honda races / seats / balls -- you have to freeze the stem and heat the seats to sweat them on.) I pulled the back cover, pulled the flywheel, and replaced the starter drive rollers / springs with new. The clutch is new, of course, as is the cable. The stator checked out perfect and I replaced the stator harness plug with the proper assembly -- a wonderful company, CORSA Technic sells the proper vintage electrical connections and high quality (pricy too) tools to make the connections -- great stuff -- looks like factory. New stainless brake pistons. New OEM grips (not the most comfortable -- I'd change them if I rode more -- but they look "right") The reserve lighting unit functions as it should. The fuel gauge is really pessimistic. When the tank is full, it reads full, but the first two gallons send it to near empty . . . Speedo and tach work as they should. (As does the direction signal warning indicator -- just about the most annoying sound on the planet.) Owners manual. Extra keys. The engine itself is sound and strong -- I just changed the oil / filter and ran a compression check -- 155 / 155 / 155 / 155. New NGK plugs / plug caps / boots. I soaked the fuel tank in 10 gallons of Evapo-Rust for about six weeks. Then pressure washed, acid etched, and POR15'd the inside. The outside was acid etched and enameled. I rebuilt the fuel shut off with Randakk's kit. New Honda fuel lines / clamps. In the interest of ride-ability I made some changes -- sorry purists -- this wasn't meant to be a museum piece, I wanted a good looking rider: I installed a Dyna S electronic ignition system, Dyna wires, and Dyna DC1-1 coils. I installed Randakk's GL1000 Nissin Master Cylinder, which made a huge improvement in the way the front brakes work. I also sent all the rotors to TrueDisk to be ground flat and drilled -- beautiful work there too, thanks Tom! I replaced the Honda "dog bone" fuse with a modern (read readily available) fuse. Corbin seat. Shinko Tour Master tires. (which now have about 500 miles on them) Cosmetics: The original master cylinder had leaked onto the false tank and damaged the finish, which was a shame, because it was pretty decent. I had the paint custom mixed to match, and painted the false tank (or shelter) and radiator side pieces -- base coat-clear coat and new decals. I also ordered (for a shocking price) NOS "HONDA" emblems for the shelter -- they came from The Netherlands -- they are almost impossible to find but they look great. I did not refinish the side covers -- the covers over the battery and rear master cylinder. When I did the other paint work I though I only wanted to repair the damaged parts and leave everything else -- "it's only original once" -- and since the side covers were, or so I though, nearly perfect, I left them packed up. Once I started re-assembling the bike I realized that the upper portions of the side covers have faded, or to be more accurate the clear coat has gotten slightly cloudy. Most people don't notice unless / until I point it out, but if I was doing it over again, I'd refinish the side covers too. The black parts -- frame, stands, misc. brackets -- I tried to match the original finish: matte, satin, or gloss as best I could judge. Enamel for the most part for durability. The chrome is nice -- the nicest parts I could find, but none of it is perfect. No horrible pits but tiny pits, surface scratches, and a proper scratch here and there. The gauges have nice clean non-crazed faces, but the housings have some blemishes. The switchgear was originally anodized black and that has faded to a sort of dark purple -- as they do. The wheels show some minor flaws in the anodizing. This is the first generation GL1000, and they have their idiosyncrasies: If it sits on the side stand and you have more than 3 1/2 quarts of oil (the minimum recommended) in the crankcase it will smoke when you start it. If you put it on the center stand it doesn't smoke. Apparently this was a design issue, or so I've read, and been told (not just by people trying to sell these things either. . .) and that the issue was addressed in later GoldWings. The primary chain tension cannot be adjusted. These GoldWings, if they have more than a few thousand miles on them, typically have noisy primary chains -- you hear it at idle in neutral. An annoying rattle. I hate it. I've had several of these, and they all did it to some degree. It was a major oversight on Honda's part, again corrected on later GoldWings. Overall: It's been a great project. I wanted to, if not restore, then refresh a great old bike, which I have done. Other projects have presented themselves, however, so I think it is time for this one to find a new home. Hopefully with someone who will ride it regularly and enjoy it. I have not ridden it nearly as much as I had hoped to or as it deserves. (If you've been involved in projects like this then you know that on parts alone I've probably spent twice what this bike is worth. I have most of the receipts but I've been afraid to add them up. . . ) NOTE: A vintage bike like this is not a new bike. I have replaced virtually everything I could in an attempt to make it a safe, attractive, comfortable, dependable, pleasurable vehicle. That doesn't mean there isn't anything more to do ever again. Putting 40 year old machinery back on the road requires you pay more attention to everything than you would on a new machine. What I am saying is: Everything is as I represent it now, at the time of sale, but there is no warranty expressed or implied. The bike is sold as is, where is. I transfer the responsibility for taking care of everything to the new owner. Hopefully I've covered the important points. If I have missed something, I am sorry. Please ask questions through eBay messaging -- I'll do my best to answer quickly. In the event of a sale: Ideally, the new owner will make the PayPal deposit within 48 hours of the end of the auction, and make arrangements to come to my home within the next week, pay the balance due in cash, and pick up the bike at that time. If you need to ship the bike I will do my best to make myself available for your shipper, with advance notice, but only if payment in full has already been received. I make no guarantees that I will agree to anything else. Please ask questions before the sale ends. eBay messaging is the best, that way everything is recorded, everyone has recourse to the transcript in the event of a disagreement. I am listing honestly and in good faith, please bid in the same manner and only if you are in a position to do so. Remember, this is a NO RESERVE auction, so your bid -- any bid -- is the potential winning bid. USA ONLY USA ONLY USA ONLY USA ONLY