1950 Plymouth Other

Sedan

218 Straight 6

Manual

Clear

Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 For your consideration is a 1950 Plymouth 4-door sedan. This car runs and drives out very well. The good: I have put a lot of new or replacement parts (some used, some NOS) as well as a lot of materials into this car: Here is a list: spark plugs (Champion RJ12C-.024 gap), gas cap, battery (2012), engine oil, gear lube in rear end and transmission, oil dipstick, many cans of black spray paint, bumper guard (front), rear shocks, stainless bumper bolts, used rear bumper (old one was damaged), 3 brake lines, brake fluid, vinyl and fabric dye, rocker panel clips, body paint, gas fill guard, taillight lenses, generator bracket, weatherstrip adhesive, trunk weatherstrip, fender molding clips, whitewall paint (a good idea that didn’t work that well). The car is still 6 volt. The original style dual horns on it sound great (I didn’t replace these), and they are loud! Continuing the list of repair or replacement, the timing chain cover seal, oil pan plug, timing chain and gears, 4 tie rod end boots, oil pan gasket, NOS front parking light lenses, NOS taillight bezels, some replacement wiring and connectors (not all the wiring has been replaced), preval sprayers, new reproduction dual outside mirrors, body clips, front turn signal light repair kit, radiator hoses, thermostat, battery cable, solenoid cable, hose clamps, fuel line hose, trunk chrome and emblem, special deluxe emblem passenger side, reproduction headlight bezels, master cylinder rebuild kit, drivers’ side removable floor pan, and ship hood ornament (better used one). I also replaced the front plastic bezel and chrome in the center of the hood with a better used one that I found. The radiator has been flushed, water pump and cylinder head gasket replaced, front motor mount replaced, seats have been re upholstered with cloth and vinyl similar to original, 1 brake hose, 2 rear wheel cylinders, NOS drivers’ side seat track (works great), used clock, new front kick panels replaced, carpet and underlayment added. The carpet was a kit that was sewn, not molded. As far as I know, this is all that is available. It fits fairly well, but not perfectly by any means. I planned on cutting a trunk mat out of some of the felt underlayment, but if I don’t get to it, I’ll throw in a chunk so someone else can make one. About half of the underneath of the car is detailed. But I got to the point where I wanted to take it off the jack stands last summer, get it out and drive it; and so I did. The car shows 65,552 miles on the odometer and the title I received said the mileage was correct for when I bought it, so this should be right. This may vary a little by the time it's sold. There is an oil change sticker from 1985, and according to that, the car has been driven about 5,000 miles since then. I put about 200 miles on the car last summer. I’m on my second tank of gas with lead substitute and Seafoam in each tank. The car seems to run better every time I get it out. The owner’s manual goes with the car. I have cloth and vinyl that match the seats to redo the door panels if somebody wanted to do that. I never got around to it. The headliner I believe is original to the car. The gauges and turn signals work. I’m not sure if it has the original motor. The head casting does have a date of 9-50, so the motor could be original, but I don’t know. I have done a lot of detailing to the engine compartment and have added the original style labels. I also added a NOS oil filter canister to make it easier to replace filters. It is a Hastings unit-model F101P, very similar in styling to the Chrysler unit, and the replacement filters are: Hastings 101, Fram C4, AC C209 or P209, Walker RC 36, or WIX CW1F or PC1F. I took the clutch linkage apart and cleaned and lubed it (it was a greasy mess before that ). I took the steering rack off, cleaned it, put new rubber tie rod boots on, painted, and reinstalled. I also topped off the steering box with gear lube. I pulled the gas tank and repainted it and painted the body underside where it mounts. I repainted the rear differential as well and the frame on the car is solid. The bad: the front shocks could stand to be replaced. I never got around to it. The body is mostly solid, but does have some rust through in places. Some that come to mind are at the bottom of the rear doors in the body itself, and the left rear fender has some small spots through. This is not a show car, but is quite presentable as a driver. I would rate the paint on scale of 1-10, with 10 being best, at maybe 4-5 (I’m kind of fussy). I had to tin and rivet some places in the floor to make it solid. A good body man could fix all of these things much better than I could, but all of it is repairable or useable as is.The car could stand a new coat of paint to really dress it up, but still looks pretty good. It might help to have the paint rubbed out. As I said, the whitewall paint was a nice idea that didn’t work that well. From a distance it looks okay, but when you get close to it, there are a lot of cracks in the paint (not the rubber). Tires are pretty good. Much of the chrome could stand to be re-chromed; especially the bumpers and guards if you want a show car. If you want a driver, then it's fine. The stone guards were pitted, so I sanded them and painted them with chrome paint until I could find another pair. They look pretty good. A NOS pair came up on ebay for sale a while back but I didn’t have the money at the time, so someone else can have the fun of finding them. Many of the stainless pieces have dings here and there. Somebody in the past damaged the passenger side stainless especially. I bumped them out as best I could, but to really dress it up, somebody might want to replace them with NOS. The passenger side rocker had some holes drilled in it by a previous owner to attach it. I removed those screws and mounted it correctly with rocker panel clips. It doesn’t look bad, but a NOS part would look better (again, I’m fussy ). And these parts are out there if you look long enough. The clock is not hooked up. I bought it from an ebay vendor and it may work or it may not. If I remember right, it has a manufacturer’s date on back that dates it to June 1950. The radio does not work either. It hums and warms up. I can get some static but have never been able to get a clear sound or voice. Oh, I also repacked the front wheel bearings with fresh grease. This is everything that I can think of that I have done to it, but if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. Auction Winner: Immediate Down Payment of $200.00 required within 48 hours via PayPal. Balance to be paid in full in cash within 7 days of auction end at time of pick up. I have a clear title to the car. If you have less than 10 feedback, email me prior to bidding so that I know that you are serious or I will cancel your bid. If you wish car to be shipped, car must be paid in full beforehand and you must arrange shipping. Any damage during shipping is your responsibility. I will work with your shipper if you choose this route. On May-16-14 at 07:24:54 PDT, seller added the following information: I do reserve the right to end this auction early as the car is for sale locally. Also, this car has a dealer sign; Polk-Alexandria, VA. I would assume that this car was sold there at one time; whether it was when it was new or not then, I don't know. See picture.