1972 Honda Other

Sedan

600cc

four speed

AN6001054429

Clear

Gasoline

REVISED Description, images and added video: Nov. 18th PLEASE NOTE: I tried to start the car yesterday morning and it's not starting now. She ran the day she was listed. It was cold out today (for Florida) so I'll try tomorrow afternoon and update if it runs. For sale is my 1972 Honda N600 in need of some mechanical and body TLC. Old video (not for sale as described in any way on youtube), but this is it, whenever it was posted, of the engine running. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYL-S8aFRBk&feature=share&list=ULxYL-S8aFRBk The Good: -Rebuilt the steering rack myself and eliminated all play so that steering wheel is very direct and informative while driving. -Good transmission with no grinds or popping out of gear. -Really good interior. -I have replaced and worked on some of the brake system. New pads, turned both rotors, I think I bought new pad springs, took apart and cleaned the master cylinder, flushed the whole system with new fluid. -Great glass. -A long time ago the under-body had a coating applied which has preserved the important structural parts from rust. -Rebuilt the engine from the cylinder up. -Good compression at 167psi driver and 160 passenger (within honda service manual specification). See: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L-hH8HU9jM&feature=share&list=UL6L-hH8HU9jM and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7b5EVKBMBU&feature=share&list=ULX7b5EVKBMBU -New valve cover gasket. -Great Kuhmo tires with 70% tread left. -Working 8-Track player that has given me no problem. -Every light works on the car. -Many extra parts go along with car including: Good condition red "H" emblem for front grill, extra stock 10" wheel, Keihin FCR 39 carburetor worth $200 (was trying to get it to work on the car but only got it to run at mid-high rpm), Another strictly parts OEM carburetor, Pair of new inner CV boots and clamps, and more. -Speaking of extra parts the car sports a Suzuki GSXR muffler in place of the original muffler (one half of the 4>2 system). I still have the original muffler to put back on but pipe might have to be added somewhere. The Bad: -The car is not starting consistently now, it's having problems idling if it does run (particularly in cold weather), and takes a constant hand on the choke knob to make power (needs less choke) and idle (needs more choke). I think any engine person can figure the problem out without too much hassle. I think it's either: A problem with the ignition, timing, or vacuum advance, A problem with the fuel mixture, An air leak somewhere after the carburetor. Points and point cam lobe are rusty but working. -Dents in most panels; biggest one being on the roof rear passenger corner. It looks real easy to pop out. I just haven't felt like starting any body work on the car whatsoever. -Needs these parts: Heater blower to heat exchanger rubber coupling, bushings in shifter linkage (I believe this is why reverse stopped working, it worked before I took out the dried rubber left of the old bushing - 1-4 forward gears engage fine), correct size battery, passenger air vent cover (at feet), rear ash tray, dome light lens. -Needs these parts fixed and/or put back on: Driver side mirror, Brake booster, Heat exchanger to airbox hose (not needed really), Passenger side inner CV boot needs to be put on because original is leaking, Something with the brakes might need attention because the pedal is pretty hard (although I think it might work itself out at it has in the past - it hasn't been able to drive to use the brakes in a while). -Has a slow oil leak (Probably in the realm of 1/2 qt per 1,000 miles). -As you can see from the pictures it's got it's fair share of rust. Other than what is shown in the pictures I would like to note that there are 4 or 5 tiny holes now in the body panels ranging from 3-5mm diameter. -Will not be able to be driven home unless you live really close to me. That's about it. Please ask any and all questions you may have about the vehicle prior to bidding. And Thank You For Looking!