1970 Ford Bronco

Wagon

V8 302

Manual

U15GLG30902

Clear

Gasoline

SCROLL DOWN IN DESCRIPTION FOR MORE PICTURES AND VIDEO 1970 Ford Bronco with original V8 302 motor. Runs well with new tune up. Drives, but can't drive it home (bad tires, seats not mounted, too much rust in floor). Body rusted through. Doors do not shut well because of rust. Motor runs great, transmission, clutch, and transfer case all work as they should. All 4wd modes work well. Hub engagement is smooth. I just checked lights - all blinkers work, including hazards. high beams work, low beams did not come on. right rear tail light is out (constant red with headlights). wipers work. Here's the story: Last Spring I found this sitting in a very rural part of Minnesota. I decided not to buy it because of the rust, frozen brake drums, and a bunch of cat poop on the bench seat. It does not stink anymore, the bench seat was rotten and thrown out. My mechanic friend went back for it after I described what was unique: Original owner All original All trim and hubcaps 40,700 miles Engine not frozen, oil looked good Transmissions shifted through all the gears Original window sticker Original owners manual Seller was the original owners nephew. He said she was very proud of the Bronco and liked to take good care of it. She lost her health several years prior and recently passed away. My friend brought it home with plans for a full restoration. He prepared it enough to drive to storage through last Winter. Turns out the internals of the motor looked excellent. I saw the valve train myself, but do not have a picture of it. Zero sludge, it looked like a new motor, can still see the red paint marks on the valve springs. The last oil change tag was less than a few hundred miles from when it sat. Last registration was 1997. The motor was given a thorough tune-up, and runs really nice. Check out the video. I cannot find the window sticker right now, if/when I find it will go with the car. (UPDATED: FOUND WINDOW STICKER - SEE PICS). There is some other sales brochures that she kept which I still have. Some parts are in a bucket, but not much was taken off (fan motor and housing, heater core, ash tray, steering column bezel). The reason it is likely 40,700 orig miles, is the condition of the motor, the pedal pads not worn, column shifter is not sloppy, oil change tag that was less than a few hundred miles earlier was from 1994. Based on the accounts from her nephew, she just did not drive it much. I suspect the reason it was parked was a failed king pin bearing which my friend fixed. So this is kind of a weird opportunity. It's a great candidate for full restoration to original, but the body is a goner. Floors, fenders, door jambs, windshield frame.... everything is rust through. The great news is how much catalog support these Broncos have for replacement parts. Other projects I have done have a lot less support, so seeing so many catalogs for early Broncos makes the project so much easier. Here's a link to a forum post to get some info when I first found it: http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185027 My friend that picked up the truck did a bunch of work to it to get it mobile, and then I got it in exchange for some other work I did for him. I am changing jobs right now, and just can't think about starting this project. Hope to find a new owner that appreciates it. Has spare tire. Original keys. Jack is gone, but handle is there. Remember: this truck is rusted all the way through. I think the body is not usable, but this truck is complete with a good original drive train and all the trim. My approach would be to clean up the axle housings and drivetrain, transfer them over to a replacement frame which I found are available for $200. I would put a donor body on it, and use all the trim from this Bronco to build a restoration project. Gauges work (except gas tank sender). Radio and body side moldings were an add-on option to purchase which were on window sticker. V8 was also an upgrade option. It was also a heavy duty package option which had bigger brakes, axles, and springs. I think this was the first year for V8 302 motor? The driver side rocker molding is not on the car. I see it in a picture when it first got back to my friends garage, so I expect to have it when truck sells but I can't guarantee it is included. New: BRAKES Brake drums Brake pads Brake cylinders Brake Master Cylinder Coated hard brake lines on chassis Flex lines at drums E-brake cable at driver drum (thought he did both, but only one there) TUNE-UP Rebuilt carb Oil change and filter Spark plugs Plug wires Distributor cap and rotor Ignition Air filter AXLES King pin bearings (this actually a big repair) Front wheel bearings and seals Rear bearings and seals OTHER Alternator Battery cables Thermostat Cooling hoses Cooling flushRebuilt air filter housing to original Muffler (non-original, just put in place to keep it quiet) Bench seat was rotten and thrown out - Have a full set of replacement buckets and rear bench - solid framesFront tank gone, rear is very rusty: 2 used replacement gas tanks were purchased, they come with Bronco Bronco does not come with a battery. If you need this to be picked up by a car hauler, send some money for a battery. Truck needs to run and drive to be picked up by commercial hauler. Email with any questions. Video of Bronco Driving: Video of Bronco Engine Running: On Sep-07-12 at 11:38:34 PDT, seller added the following information: I've had a couple inquiries about driving the truck home. I don't think it's a good idea, but with that said, it was driven 15 miles to storage before the Winter. I trailered it home last week instead of driving because the tags are expired again and I didn't know if the tires would hold air. I've driven it around my neighborhood just to spook the neighbors. There is no floor pan left which is dangerous. The tires are in very bad shape. Who knows if they will blow when they heat up? 3 bad tires hold air, the bald spare is on there now holds air 3 days. Other tire holds air 1 day. The bucket seats are not mounted after the bench came out. Nothing really to mount to. No tailpipe so the exhaust fumes come up through holes in trunk area. Needs battery. If you pop rivet some sheet stock into floor area, mount seat to some angle iron, put in battery, replace tires, lube zerks in drive shafts and steering joints, extend exhaust tail pipe, and get a tetanus shot it should be fine to drive short distance. No guarantees.On Sep-09-12 at 14:41:41 PDT, seller added the following information: Several people have asked about ending the auction early. I am going to let the auction determine buyer. Thanks.