1967 Ford Mustang

Mustang Coupe

8 - Cyl.

Automatic

7t01c248312

Gasoline

Up for sale is a '67 Mustang I had intended to restore. But at 62 and two TR6s ahead of it my wife said something had to go. "If something happens to you, I dont want a yard full of cars to deal with" was actually how she put it. At any rate, here's the story on this one. For a 45 year old car it's in unbelievable shape. I bought it non running with the claim that it had only 19k original owner miles on it. I immediately tuned it up. hooked the gas line to a can of good gas, turned the key and hoped. Just a quick squirt of starting fluid and the car started up immediately. The engine (289) V8 sounded awsome. No smoke, smooth, no clatter of any kind. Given the newness of the various stickers in the engine compartment and trunk, I don't think the car had been driven all that much, You're not going to have to rebuild the engine though. I didn't try the tranny but I'm sure it has the same miles. Change filter, new fluids - try it and see. I've restored many British cars and given the overall condition of the body and frame, this is a simple fix. I'll start with the good. The trunk through to the back seat is solid - just surface rust, The inner and outer rockers are solid. Just surface rust on the outer, roof/rear quarters, fenders inner fenders are all solid. One of the rear quarters needs that lower patch - a common fault The frame pieces have surface rust. You're not going to have to replace any sections of the frame though. In the pics of the car, on the upper panels/doors etc., it looks like rust but it's not. It's just the original primer showing through after I pressure washed it. The car is very solid. It even has the original hubcaps. All the interior pieces are there, but for $650 including the dashpad, you can replace. There is a new carpet set that goes with the car. Here's the thing that suprised me about these cars Replacement parts are incredibly cheap and available. Now the bad. At this point, I'd divide this into two categories. Can you weld or know someone who can? If the answer is yes, then I'd use the floorpans and extra pieces that come with the car to simply re-weld the floorpans. The pieces are there to do it. If you don't weld...I don't...I think it would be cheaper and most importantly look better. to buy the one piece floorpan that has the trans tunnel, complete floor for about $500 shipped. There would be less welding to be done doing one piece than patching the various pieces back together. Sell the pans that come with the car to help offset some of the costs. It will need the interior headliner - I have the bows. Again only $50.00. Overall, the car needs alot of wirebrushing the surface rust and the floors welded. Given the low miles, not having to rebuild the 289 etc., it is very worth the effort. All the rest of the stuff like brakes are very easy and cheap fixes. If you can weld, this is the dream mustang to restore. If not, you can still cut out the old floors, wire brush frame etc, so all the welder has to do is tack in the one piece floor and do the couple of small fender patches at the same time. Figure about five hundred for the floorpan ($500) and fender patches ($100) and the cost of welding ($400)...Again, not bad at all to have such a solid project car with no egine to rebuild. The car is located near Charlotte, NC for easy shipping. Please don't bid on the car unless you have the money to pay for it. I reserve the right to end the auction early because I have the car for sale locally. Good luck bidding.