1972 MG MGB

GT Coupe

4 - Cyl.

Manual

ghd5uc2811951g

Gasoline

New updated pictures, email for special requests, pre inspection welcome and invited. 1972 MGB GT used a commuter car, still has some project time left in it for the good MG enthusiast. Runs great The thing about the car is I use it exactly opposite of what a good MG owner should. Plus I have added my touches to a car that purists will not like (ie, the color, the vinyl chosen for the top.) I use it as my wet weather, snow, daily driver to work car. I commute about 130-140 miles a day and the GT gets used about 3 days out of the week for that. I change the oil ever month or 2 if I drive it that much. I bought the car 09/18/09 and while it ran and drove, I have had to sort out a fair amount of PO issues and lack of maintenance. I have posted earlier threads on www.mgexperience.net about the "state of the motor" and what should my rebuild plan be. The car comes with a spare 5main block and head that is currently at the machine shop now awaiting an estimate. Undoubtedly a thread will pop up whether this car is under or over priced, I am just trying to get some funds for either another driver or to help with a disney trip. Below are the items I have completed or analyzed in the line of a "to do list". Motor 115-120 compression across the cylinders (This is a LC motor and Low compression motor spec is 130) with no oil smoke on start up or decel Oil pressure is 75-80lbs at all time except for after very long hot drives it will go to 60lbs on idle Factory installed AC with a york compressor, worked well, filled with R134a, I was going to convert to a sanden compressor The ac worked well with a R134a fill but the compressor is starting to leak at the shaft seal. (found the parts on ebay for $24.00) Sanden conversion is about $215-$300 depending one the supplier. If it doesnt sell the next step is a sanden conversion. New water pump Converted Alternator to the Saturn 110amp version, due to the AC I had to make a bracket, and the belts are new (spares in the car with numbers marked for replacments) Battery is fresh, New in Oct 09 New oil lines and cooler replace due to leaks Both cooler and oil gauge lines Crane fire electronic igniton Desmogged, and block vented to rear Plugs, Cap, Rotor all new Except when the idler pulley bearing froze, (replaced) and it broke a belt it has never let me sitting on the road Averaging with traffic 23-26 mpg Body and suspension: (5) Pirelli tires and new tubes, maybe 10k on tires Since Oct 09 Minimal rust was repaired. The two major areas in the pics that are not done to an exceptional std are the lower drivers fender and a front floor patch. The bottom of the driver’s fender was a mess and I couldn't find a good used fender before I painted it. I wanted it at least one color if I was going to be sitting in this thing for my daily commute, even if I had to revisit the paint later. So I welded in a lower patch and then used good body icing to build and smooth the area. Looking at it in directly I still should block the fenders again and this summer I was going to do this but now have decided to try and sell it. The color is easily mixable and matchable, a good 2 quarts comes with the car. The body is very solid if someone want to repaint the factory orange or strip and start over. I repaired two small starting rust areas in the front of the leaf springs with 16 gauge steel, they are very solid. The car came with a vinyl top, and originally to get it under color fast I didn't remove it. I recently put a new vinyl top on it as an "engineering pilot" to see if it could do it as well as the shops. It came out good but the gain of the vinyl may not be to everyone’s liking. (pics included). The metal under the top was in great shape and if someone didn’t want the vinyl the prep for paint would be minimal. This is another thing that since I now know new trick I may try again to get better seams. Other repairs to the body include MOSS poly susppention bushings on everything: springs, A arms if it was a bushing its now poly. During this repair I noted the kingpins will need servicing at some point but I can drive up to 70mph with no shimmy or shake. It comes with 3 spare wire wheels. Bumpers should be replaced; brackets are good, chrome bad with dent in rear bumper. Simple bolt on project. Engine compartment is functional but not pretty, its either the original orange body color or black. Door jambs are black. Fresh Brakes front and rear, and new fresh rubber lines. New wheel bearings and seals in the front wheels, new axle seals in the rear. New Fuel tank and the pump has been serviced Interior I replaced the carpet. The head liner (white) and plastic areas are in great shape. The seats need to be rebuilt or replaced from a foam and cover perspective, I have been trying to find Miata or fiero seats as others have done here. Door and window seals need to be replaced. The door panels are new. Like I described in my earlier post it’s a solid car thats drives anywhere any time but there are still have things I want to do or a new owner would want to do. I tend to go through drivers fairly quickly and get bored if I am not making progress or something else unique or shiny catches my eye. It’s not and probably wouldn’t be a candidate for a super show car unless stripped, drivers fender replaced, body seals and repainted but the body is solid. As it sits its a solid driver or candidate for continued refresh. The car is a good functional unique looking driver, with all of the motor needs taken care of. It starts every day and humms along at 70 mph at 3.8 – 4k ish rpm, handles well in the snow and rain and prompts questions and looks at the gas pump. Paypal accepted, add fees to the transaction, payment must clear from paypal to my bank before car and title leaves. Cash accepted, Bid with confidence if you arrive and its not to your liking you may cancel but no after sale haggeling please. Email for more pics or any questions.